Lsx iron block
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,608
Likes: 0
From: Webb City, MO...out in the garage
they've had trouble with the sleeves dropping...not sure if it got remedied or not. what ever happened to the Dart billet block? i saw some pictures of it some years ago and never heard of one actually being used? granted, they're $$$$...but still...
They are out, but they start at 9k!
Go with a 440. a 454 is unsafe for boost and maxes out your cylinder wall boring capabilities. If something happens you'll end up with a 2500 dollar paper weight.
I was one of the first 2 or 3 to have a 454 up and running on the site. They make a **** load of power and torque, but if I could go back i'd have done a 440. The power difference would be negligable and you'd be safe for whatever you wanted to throw at it.
my 454 made 590 rwhp and 560 lbft with a conservative tune on pump gas on probably the lowest dynoing dynojet in the US.
Id lay the smack down on FI cars making upwards of 650 wheel. so the motor itself was badass... but 14 ci aint gonna kill you to be safe.
im only speaking from experience.
I was one of the first 2 or 3 to have a 454 up and running on the site. They make a **** load of power and torque, but if I could go back i'd have done a 440. The power difference would be negligable and you'd be safe for whatever you wanted to throw at it.
my 454 made 590 rwhp and 560 lbft with a conservative tune on pump gas on probably the lowest dynoing dynojet in the US.
Id lay the smack down on FI cars making upwards of 650 wheel. so the motor itself was badass... but 14 ci aint gonna kill you to be safe.
im only speaking from experience.
Last edited by jermzz; Aug 9, 2009 at 12:11 PM. Reason: your mom
I like the block but there are little thing that take a little more time with this block which makes it a pain
Those Dart blocks are about the biggest waste of money though, they are completely unneccessary for anything we all need for our cars.
I mean we can build 650+ RWHP N/A engines with the GM aluminum LSx blocks and still spray the **** out of them with no problems (800-900 RWHP stuff). If we want to go huge spray and/or 1,300+ RWHP set-ups with forced induction, we have the LSX iron that is way stronger and more reliable than that Dart rip-off.
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Go with a 440. a 454 is unsafe for boost and maxes out your cylinder wall boring capabilities. If something happens you'll end up with a 2500 dollar paper weight.
I was one of the first 2 or 3 to have a 454 up and running on the site. They make a **** load of power and torque, but if I could go back i'd have done a 440. The power difference would be negligable and you'd be safe for whatever you wanted to throw at it.
my 454 made 590 rwhp and 560 lbft with a conservative tune on pump gas on probably the lowest dynoing dynojet in the US.
Id lay the smack down on FI cars making upwards of 650 wheel. so the motor itself was badass... but 14 ci aint gonna kill you to be safe.
im only speaking from experience.
I was one of the first 2 or 3 to have a 454 up and running on the site. They make a **** load of power and torque, but if I could go back i'd have done a 440. The power difference would be negligable and you'd be safe for whatever you wanted to throw at it.
my 454 made 590 rwhp and 560 lbft with a conservative tune on pump gas on probably the lowest dynoing dynojet in the US.
Id lay the smack down on FI cars making upwards of 650 wheel. so the motor itself was badass... but 14 ci aint gonna kill you to be safe.
im only speaking from experience.
.
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Verdad Gallardo Thats right, the sleeves were dropping.
Those Dart blocks are about the biggest waste of money though, they are completely unneccessary for anything we all need for our cars.
I mean we can build 650+ RWHP N/A engines with the GM aluminum LSx blocks and still spray the **** out of them with no problems (800-900 RWHP stuff). If we want to go huge spray and/or 1,300+ RWHP set-ups with forced induction, we have the LSX iron that is way stronger and more reliable than that Dart rip-off.
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Those Dart blocks are about the biggest waste of money though, they are completely unneccessary for anything we all need for our cars.
I mean we can build 650+ RWHP N/A engines with the GM aluminum LSx blocks and still spray the **** out of them with no problems (800-900 RWHP stuff). If we want to go huge spray and/or 1,300+ RWHP set-ups with forced induction, we have the LSX iron that is way stronger and more reliable than that Dart rip-off.
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300 shot....make 900 RWHP.
Or do a 428ci with a 4.125 bore. Make pretty much the same power on a 300 shot.
Let the spray do the work and have a very reliable engine that can be rebuilt multiple times.
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Then a 1,400 RWHP FI set-up...LSX iron would be the better choice.
So where would a Dart block be the better choice over the others...for $9,000 just for a bare block???
All I can think of is a competition road race car, but then the price tag even seems ridiculous because road race cars can use the regular aluminums like the C6 road race cars do, with no problems at all. They're just N/A set-ups.
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But why would someone want to spend that money for a Dart block on say a 650 RWHP build, when a regular aluminum one will do that with flying colors? Then like I said above, even if some is going to do an all out, race gas, high compression, N/A build going for say 850 FWHP...why go Dart?
Then a 1,400 RWHP FI set-up...LSX iron would be the better choice.
So where would a Dart block be the better choice over the others...for $9,000 just for a bare block???
All I can think of is a competition road race car, but then the price tag even seems ridiculous because road race cars can use the regular aluminums like the C6 road race cars do, with no problems at all. They're just N/A set-ups.
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Then a 1,400 RWHP FI set-up...LSX iron would be the better choice.
So where would a Dart block be the better choice over the others...for $9,000 just for a bare block???
All I can think of is a competition road race car, but then the price tag even seems ridiculous because road race cars can use the regular aluminums like the C6 road race cars do, with no problems at all. They're just N/A set-ups.
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This is coming from an owner of a LSX block car.
I never said anything about using a billet block for a 650rwhp NA build? And why would the LSX block be better for a 1400 RWHP build? Just because it is cheaper? It is also over 100lbs more on the nose of you car? If you have the money, then buy the billet block.
This is coming from an owner of a LSX block car.
This is coming from an owner of a LSX block car.
I guess if you have money to burn and 100 pounds is really that big a deal to whatever you're doing with it....buy the Dart for weight. Thats really the only advantage there is between it and other blocks.
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03supercobra ,
I don't really know much about the Dart block....but would you recommend someone use that block over an LSX iron block....for a 100% street car. But one who is going to build a set-up thats gonna make 1,400 RWHP or better as their goal? Just a roll race set-up, straigh line stuff only.
Or is the LSX iron the best choice there.
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I don't really know much about the Dart block....but would you recommend someone use that block over an LSX iron block....for a 100% street car. But one who is going to build a set-up thats gonna make 1,400 RWHP or better as their goal? Just a roll race set-up, straigh line stuff only.
Or is the LSX iron the best choice there.
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03supercobra ,
I don't really know much about the Dart block....but would you recommend someone use that block over an LSX iron block....for a 100% street car. But one who is going to build a set-up thats gonna make 1,400 RWHP or better as their goal? Just a roll race set-up, straigh line stuff only.
Or is the LSX iron the best choice there.
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I don't really know much about the Dart block....but would you recommend someone use that block over an LSX iron block....for a 100% street car. But one who is going to build a set-up thats gonna make 1,400 RWHP or better as their goal? Just a roll race set-up, straigh line stuff only.
Or is the LSX iron the best choice there.
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Depends on the funds, and the car. I don't want to hijack this thread anymore. If you want to talk about this some more, hit me up with a pm.
Yeah, the original poster already has a new LSX iron block anyway.
Just a matter of whats the best bore stroke to go with for his purpose. Tall deck is quite nice to start with though.
4.250 stroke for an N/A set-up would be sweet.
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Just a matter of whats the best bore stroke to go with for his purpose. Tall deck is quite nice to start with though.
4.250 stroke for an N/A set-up would be sweet.
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
I would go with less stroke, and a longer rod. You want your rod ratio to be as good as possible. With a build like this you are gonna need to buy the best of everything, and use a good engine builder.
These are the heads I want to use. (LSX heads) they are one up on the ls7 heads. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_DSforCSEY as far the intake I will go with the Fast 102mm/102 combo
Whats the price for fully assembled LSX heads?
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