few problems with radiator and pulley removal
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
few problems with radiator and pulley removal I have an 06 LS2 GTO and I'm trying to get some things done, but I have a few issues.
How can I stop the pulley from spinning to get this thing off?
I could make a little more room also if I can pull the radiator, but I can't pull it out. Something is holding it in after I move it up about 3/4". I see some lines that I already bent going to a canister in front of the radiator and back to behind the engine by the firewall.
Do those come out? Any write up on how to do this? I thought I've seen a write up section on this board, but I could not find it.
How can I stop the pulley from spinning to get this thing off?
I could make a little more room also if I can pull the radiator, but I can't pull it out. Something is holding it in after I move it up about 3/4". I see some lines that I already bent going to a canister in front of the radiator and back to behind the engine by the firewall.
Do those come out? Any write up on how to do this? I thought I've seen a write up section on this board, but I could not find it.
hold up. do you have a auto or manuel gto. if its a auto there will be tranny cooling lines running in it. Also there are power steering cooling hoses running in it. the othe part you are referring to is part of the a/c. to keep the pulley from spinning i use a 1/2 drive extension and wedge it against the block through the dampner.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
I have a manual- there is a smaller "radiator" type thing that I opened the lines of the black canister on it- it was not good- I did close it back up but I lost a few ounces. I did manage to pull the radiator out once I figured out the clips latching both pieces together. What was that stuff I inhaled?
I think I understand what your saying about the pulley- Does it matter if I've turned it a couple times with the oil out- I assume it will not.
Thanks for the info- If that pulley trick works, I may just get to my oil pump today.
know the specs for torque for the new crank bolt
I think I understand what your saying about the pulley- Does it matter if I've turned it a couple times with the oil out- I assume it will not.
Thanks for the info- If that pulley trick works, I may just get to my oil pump today.
know the specs for torque for the new crank bolt
I have a manual- there is a smaller "radiator" type thing that I opened the lines of the black canister on it- it was not good- I did close it back up but I lost a few ounces. I did manage to pull the radiator out once I figured out the clips latching both pieces together. What was that stuff I inhaled?
I think I understand what your saying about the pulley- Does it matter if I've turned it a couple times with the oil out- I assume it will not.
Thanks for the info- If that pulley trick works, I may just get to my oil pump today.
know the specs for torque for the new crank bolt
I think I understand what your saying about the pulley- Does it matter if I've turned it a couple times with the oil out- I assume it will not.
Thanks for the info- If that pulley trick works, I may just get to my oil pump today.
know the specs for torque for the new crank bolt
Last edited by novaflash2002; Sep 19, 2009 at 09:09 PM.
your AC will need recharged.....
there's no power steering cooler running in the radiator.
You need to put the car in 4th or 5th gear with the Ebrake on, then use a breaker bar to loosen the crank pulley bolt. Do same for tightening.
There's a write up with good pics on the LS1gto.com board.
You'll need to take all the oil pan bolts loose about 1" to get the pan to drop down...so you can get to the oil pump pickup tube bolt. This is not something for beginners really, it's a PIA to remove the oil pump and get it back on in the car BTW.
there's no power steering cooler running in the radiator.
You need to put the car in 4th or 5th gear with the Ebrake on, then use a breaker bar to loosen the crank pulley bolt. Do same for tightening.
There's a write up with good pics on the LS1gto.com board.
You'll need to take all the oil pan bolts loose about 1" to get the pan to drop down...so you can get to the oil pump pickup tube bolt. This is not something for beginners really, it's a PIA to remove the oil pump and get it back on in the car BTW.
Last edited by A_VAS; Sep 22, 2009 at 10:12 AM.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
I finished it 2 days ago- oil pressure was still bad after replacing a bad o-ring
took it apart today and o-ring looked fine, and I replaced the oil pump- still losing oil pressure when accelerating.
Happens only when the oil reaches operating temp, under 170 degrees the car builds pressure past 50psi just driving around.
It is still dropping about 10 psi at a certain rpm and then slowly builds up to 47-50 at 6500 rpm.
The next step is to drop the oil pan, but in this car it doesn't seem easy
something happens once the oil is hot and it is causing a loss of pressure. Either the pick up is letting air in once the oil is hot or the bearings maybe- or even a crack in the block that lets oil in once it is hot enough- who knows!!
Any ideas?
took it apart today and o-ring looked fine, and I replaced the oil pump- still losing oil pressure when accelerating.
Happens only when the oil reaches operating temp, under 170 degrees the car builds pressure past 50psi just driving around.
It is still dropping about 10 psi at a certain rpm and then slowly builds up to 47-50 at 6500 rpm.
The next step is to drop the oil pan, but in this car it doesn't seem easy
something happens once the oil is hot and it is causing a loss of pressure. Either the pick up is letting air in once the oil is hot or the bearings maybe- or even a crack in the block that lets oil in once it is hot enough- who knows!!
Any ideas?
