Latley I've been using 5w30 valvoline syntec oil and don't get me wrong it's a good oil but I noticed as I have been driving it dd about 100 miles a day to and from work that it has been burning alot of it..so I was thnking Bout usng 15w50 mobil 1 syntec racing formula.. would this be a bad idea if I go to 15w50? Or should I stick with 5w30 10w30ish oil

 

Mobil one is very thin oil, i have a 427 and i run the valvoline vr1 series and i have no problems, it gets pretty hot in florida so i run the 20w50 with no problem, and sometimes run the 10w30 in cold winters. Whats your hot oil pressure, and how hot does it get where you live? Also your bearing clearances make a big difference and also if its an iron or aluminum stroker? If your engine builder set them up on the loose side I would run a little thicker oil.

 

Go to Walmart and buy the cheapest NON-synthetic 10w40 or 20w50, whatever you want it doesn't matter.......change it every 3,000 miles with a new filter and there's NOTHING more you can do to make an engine last longer.

My 130,000+ mile 427ci is living proof. All its ever gotten is the cheapest 20w50 crap available and AC Delco or Purolator filters. ZERO REPAIRS TO ANY INTERNALS. Its gonna run till the cylinders are so out of round and/or the rings are worn away that I won't have any compression left....before a part or bearing fails, guaranteed.

Everyone I know over the past 15 years who has bought 402's, 408's, 427's, 422's, etc, etc, etc......NEVER got more than about 60,000 miles. They all use the super-duper-special SYNTHETIC oils......hilarious.

Its ALL about CLEAN oil....nothing else matters.

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A high ZDDP content oil should help with piston scuff and cam pitting from increased pressures from valve springs. Needs to be 1200 PPM minimum.

 

When it's hot pressure is around 40 to 50ish..in the winter time it could get to 32 degrees or a lil bit less like around 29ish but it's rare.. And in summer time around 100ish..it's a iron stroker...at my breakin time in the motor I was using. Vr1 20w50 then swtixhed to syntehtic 5w30

 

Do yourself a favor and visit bobistheoilguy.com for recommendations on oil. A tribologist can give you a much better recommendation no offense. None of these statements are based on facts. Saying a conventional protects better than a synthetic is complete rubish. The main advantage to a readily available synthetic( group III ie penz plat,valvoline etc) is increased thermal stability and extended drain intervals. OCI's being equal you will never see a difference in a properly operating engine w/ identicle driving and filtration.

Not sure why the old "conventional is superior" is still alive and well here. Better inform endurance race teams that synthetic is junk and will wear out their engines.

Use a synthetic for what it was designed for and you will see it excel. Many do not. 3K mile oil changes DO NOT insure low wear. Again look to experts on the subject.

As far as burning oil "sometimes" a bump in viscosity can slow the rate of oil burned between OCI. Often times this is caused by other things like PCV design or valve needs changed. It can also be as simple as wear. But often it's from sticking ring packs. This will lower compression, kill power and thus burn oil. Your engine will never need a 50wt,period. All you are going to do with that is kill your mileage.

Not trying to come off the wrong way, just trying to steer your in the right direction. Nobody here can say X brand motor oil in such and such motor produced less wear than Y brand. There are too many variables. The simple response is there is no "magic oil". Choose the correct viscosity for your application and look at what is needed additive wise (ie ZDDP mainly for flat tappet cams,Moly used to reduce wear(FM) and the base oil( ie GroupI,II III,IV,V. This is where the above site comes into play. Look for a member named Doug Hilary. He Use to work for EM for years and has gobs of knowledge on anything lube related. Good luck!

 

Thanks everyone fo the inputs