break in process... 
break in process...
I recommend getting a hold of joe gibbs break in oil. I would start the car, let it warm up and then go drive it for about 30 mins, come back dump the oil, let it cool down and do it again. I would take it easy for the first 1000-2000 miles and keep it below 4000 rpm and no full throttle. A few heat cycles are good, and def use an oil with a lot of zinc, and no synthetic.
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Teching In
Joined: Apr 2010
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thats what i have been reading on google and other websites.. but i see videos of people stating its their first fire up and them revvin the sh*t out of it.. and also vids going strait to the dyno thats y i was wondering if that was ok to do
Many schools of thought on this subject. I used Joe Gibbs break in oil on my LS2 when new drove it 80 miles and hit the dyno for some 7K rpm power pulls. I am friendly with a local engine builder who tells me when they put a new engine on the engine dyno they: Due a warm up cycle,go over the rocker arms,throw the bricks at it on the dyno. He also says they use the Joe Gibbs break in oil on every single motor they build and swears by the stuff.
Teching In
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Lots of the top engine builders just use break in oil and warm it up, then hit the dyno for full throttle pulls right to redline. I know the sound of that makes me curle too, but if most of the top engine builders do it I can't see it being harmful...
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FWIW When i went on the Corvette assembly plant tour they fire up brand new cars for the first time and drive them straight o the dyno and run the **** out of them. If they dont make enough power they are sent to a few in house "specialists" who tweak them and then stuff them back on the dyno again until they hit acceptable numbers. Then they send them out to the customer/dealer/whomever. If it works for the general...
What kind of cylinder hone? What kind of rings?
Properly setup with the right component parts the engine is broken in in one full heat cycle at moderate RPM. 30 years ago you might want more breakin time but now with diamond honing and alloy rings it doesn't take anywhere near as long.
Just my $.02
Properly setup with the right component parts the engine is broken in in one full heat cycle at moderate RPM. 30 years ago you might want more breakin time but now with diamond honing and alloy rings it doesn't take anywhere near as long.
Just my $.02
My particular rebuild was with a 320 grit silicone carbide Flex-Hone and stock rings....I do understand that with certain rings and certain finishes todays engines are quite a bit different the the old days...
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From: Alpharetta, GA
Two or three heat cycles with oil changes in between. Check all the bolts and everything that moves or rotates. Then take it to the dyno and run the **** out of it.
Last edited by Silverado_13; Apr 10, 2010 at 01:38 PM.
If you use the joe gibbs BR you need to used the total sump capacity to get the desired effect. Keep in mind this oil is high in zddp and if you use half you are getting half of the additives. Using only 1 quart wouldnt be worth it and you would see zero benefit from doing so.
the breakin process and use of oils with more zddp in it is for engines with flat tappet cams. no breakin is necessary on an ls engine or any other engine with a roller cam. start it up, get to operating temperature and go. cant get any easier. these engines are meant to be dummy proof, but somehow people still over complicate things. the engine should have been built to look like this:
http://jillandkate.files.wordpress.c...asy-button.jpg
http://jillandkate.files.wordpress.c...asy-button.jpg
Zddp protects beyond flat tappets. Do some reading on lubes and you will see what I am talking about. This topic has been gone over countless times. If you want to learn about how lubricants really work visit www.bobistheoilguy.com The only downside to zddp is related to emissions systems( depending upon engine condition and the oils chemistry the cats can become poisoned although it rarely happens anymore). Lubricants are very complex. It's not as simple as you might think. If it were F1 and NASCAR teams would just pour in some supertech conventional and go. They dont and there is a very good reason as to why.
Last edited by 355TurboLT1; Apr 12, 2010 at 12:54 AM.
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2010
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A couple years ago i would say use rotella oil but they have cut down on all the good additives. If you dont have a flat tappet cam (I shure hope not on on ls), Then let it warm up then go drive the **** out of it IF the tune is right, of not dyno it before you get on it. Without the flat tappets the only thing to break in is the rings. They seat best with MAX cylinder PSI. Defiantly vary the rpms don't just cruse.
no one is talking about nascar engines. that is completely scienced out and in a max effort environment.
delo 400 CI-4 is the off the shelf oil with the highest zddp and phosphorous content, but it has been replaced with CJ-4, which has about 300 ppm less zddp and is still fine for mild spring pressure and street cams.
again, this does not apply to the simple question the OP asked. run what the mfg intended, mobil 1 with a viscocity based on your engine clearances, and go.
delo 400 CI-4 is the off the shelf oil with the highest zddp and phosphorous content, but it has been replaced with CJ-4, which has about 300 ppm less zddp and is still fine for mild spring pressure and street cams.
again, this does not apply to the simple question the OP asked. run what the mfg intended, mobil 1 with a viscocity based on your engine clearances, and go.
