ok so i some how lifted my heads on my 427 lsx with twin gt-35
s at around 16-18 psi . 6 bolt tea tfs 235 heads with 1/2 head studs and the extra 6 bolt studs as well. used .051 cometic mls gaskets and it lasted for a while but finally let go after about 600-700 miles. this is in a heavy *** truck and is driven on the street frequently . im in so cal and am looking for options . ive spoken with nelson racing engines but they are very hard to get a hold of . they run some nice o ringed blocks with receiver grooves in the head and a copper gasket. i have to punch my block out to a 4.130 bore this time so i hope there is plenty of room left for the o rings.

does anyone have any adivce on who in so cal can do this and a proper method of setting up the orings? im pretty savy putting these together for lower hp but this big 1200+ hp is a new league to getting something that will last.

 

Are you using the stock ECU or a standalone? Who tuned it?

 

stock computer . i have tuned it.

total timing is around 12-13 @ wot right now , i didnt think that was aggressive at all. no audible knock and nothing picked up on the gen 3 sensors in the gen 4 sensor location.

91 pump gas from ca , pistons showed little if any detonation and the bearings looked decent.

 

Race Engine Development (RED) in oceanside. He is one of the best as far as installing Darton dry sleeves in LS Motors and I know he def O-rings blocks.

My motor is at superior automotive in anaheim (a little cheaper) geting machine work done and they do it as well.

im pretty surprised youre pushing water already though.... did you "break in" the ARP studs? im sure you know, but they need to be torqued, loosened, torqued... about 5 times before finally torqueing them down. This allows them to stretch initially

 

i didnt do it 5 times but 2x i did . not sure if i would need to do it 5x everytime the heads came off .

just looking into options as far as o-ringing the block , receiver grooves in the heads and what kind of gaskets/rings to use . i want this motor to take what ever i can throw at it.

 

no, you dont need to do it everytime, just the very first time to initially strets the studs. also, you really should retourqe them after their first heat cycle. i know most people with average motors dont do this, and its fine, but you have a pretty radical setup and it may be contributing to the problem. Id say if its easy enough, get in there and retourqe the studs one last time, it may help. also, are you using the ARP "Ultra Torque" lube on the threads? If not, that can be effecting your reading by as much as 10%

 

Have you re torqued the heads? Little strange that the heads are lifting at that level, but all motors are different. Have you though about copper spray?
I believe with O-ringed blocks and copper gaskets they tend to leak a little water... (so I have heard).

 

Actually, torque cycling the studs/nuts doesn't "stretch" anything. The purpose, along with the proper lube, is to "burnish in" all the rotating pieces (washers & nuts) against the fixed pieces (head & stud). Each time you do this, you'll feel the torquing action get smoother. After about 5 cycles, the "return on investment" diminishes to the point where it does no more good. Once done, it's no longer required on disassembly & reassembly.

Are you confident on how flat your heads and decks are? A motor built to those specs shouldn't have blown a HG... I'm a old Buick GN guy and I usually run 24 PSI on pump gas and alky. Hmmm, alky... Sounds like a logical upgrade!