NA LS3 Stroker vs. LS7?
We are a building a LS for drifting and after doing some research it seems we are left with these two options to reach our goal of lightweight, reliable 550-600 rwhp NA horsepower: A stroked LS3 or a LS7. We want to run a wet sump with accusump for cost and are planning on running a semi-race cam, FAST intake, E85, etc.
Which motor would be the most reliable out of a stroked LS3 or a LS7?
How are Brian Crower LS stroker kits rated?
Can the LS3 be safely stroked to more than 427 cubic inches?
Thanks!
I would work with an LS3 416 or 427 and go from there. There are so many big names out there that are less money but the same high quality parts that are readily available through many vendors on here. Most can either build the engine for you or give you the parts to do so yourself.
SDPC gets my vote though. Anything you want, they can get, and if they cant, you probably dont need it!
Just based off of your post though, I am guessing this is going into a non-ls application like a 240/Z/or a few other import bodies, amd I right?
You are right, it's going into an import body.
Would the LS3 block need any machining (other than the bore) in order to take the stroker kit?
The LS3 wet sump is a definitive plus as that's what we would go to either way.
I would work with an LS3 416 or 427 and go from there. There are so many big names out there that are less money but the same high quality parts that are readily available through many vendors on here. Most can either build the engine for you or give you the parts to do so yourself.
SDPC gets my vote though. Anything you want, they can get, and if they cant, you probably dont need it!
Just based off of your post though, I am guessing this is going into a non-ls application like a 240/Z/or a few other import bodies, amd I right?
I am not a builder but this was what I found when I researched my build.
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The detonation problems can all be handled in the tune.. Shitty tune and shitty gas = detonation. Its not the block that causes it.
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I am not a builder but this was what I found when I researched my build.
In reality you can sleeve anything you want or build anything you want. For the power that comes out of them though, for the price, the LS3 block is hard to beat.
The longer sleeve would allow for alot yes. The larger bore is good. Obviously better than the smaller LS3 bore, but if there is no budget you would go with an RHS or Dart block. But, since there is, you could do a 427 LS3 for a really good price and produce a good amount of power. Just check out the dyno forum for some info that is very interesting.
A 427ci motor no matter how you slice it will make a **** ton of torque. With a presumably 4:10 rear which most imports have.... you will have no problem annihilating the tires. It should make 300rwtq off idle and carry 500rwtq to 5K and shortly after that begin to fall off.
Make sure you have a diff cooler so you don't boil that sucker!
I had a 440rwhp LS1 RX-7 with 245's out back, 3.90 gears, it could smoke the tires from the start all the way thru 3rd gear. Those where crappy street tires though. Torque is great!
I am coming from single turbo 2JZ's so this will actually be a downgrade in max torque numbers, but the NA drivability of the LS seems very appealing. I reckon we can build a 427 high compression wet sump (accusumped) LS3 for around $15k, whereas the LS7 seems to be about $20k with what we need, and at that point the LS7 seems to be considerably weaker. And, like one of you mentioned, when the LS3 blows we can dry sleeve it if necessary.
This is tough!
Looks like a good bang for the buck to me.
You do know that those are 2 different things right? Before you try to make fun of what I say, make sure what you are saying is correct.
There CAN be knock with E85 assuming the tuner has no idea what they are doing. There are alot of variables. Building the fuel system a little more inexpensively to run standard pump gas is more budget minded IMO.
I missed the E85 part, but I still stand behind my statement.






