Texas-speed lists LS1 blocks at $1100... 
na ls7 build... is sleeving needed
LS7 blocks Well, I have three cracked LS7 blocks here to repair at the moment. Any detonation at all will crack a sleeve and block. I have had shops send me cracked blocks from engines just getting a dyno tune to squeeze a bit more power out of the engine.
It is a lot cheaper to sleeve the block prior to the build than to build the engine twice.
Steve
It is a lot cheaper to sleeve the block prior to the build than to build the engine twice.
Steve
__________________
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
Man, you don't have to go to that extreme. Just get a used ls2 or alum 5.3 block and let ERL or RED sleeve it. Then you have the best of 3 worlds. Bore of an LS7 and larger, strength damn near the LSX block, and the light weight of any aluminum block.
The price is probably close to what you would sell the LS7 for.
The price is probably close to what you would sell the LS7 for.
The extreme of using an iron block that will add 110lbs of weight. Plus, on a boosted or nitrous application 4.030 is recommended and 4.080 on a N/A application on an iron block.
At least if you sell the LS7 block you can damn near get the money needed to sleeve a block thru ERL. The sleeves they use are the strongest in the business and you get the bore of a LS7 and larger. Included in that price are the main studs from ARP
http://erlperformance.com/gm-ls-dry-...-block-sleeved
My next setup will be an ERL superdeck 6 bolt.
At least if you sell the LS7 block you can damn near get the money needed to sleeve a block thru ERL. The sleeves they use are the strongest in the business and you get the bore of a LS7 and larger. Included in that price are the main studs from ARP
http://erlperformance.com/gm-ls-dry-...-block-sleeved
My next setup will be an ERL superdeck 6 bolt.
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: May 2008
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Were just saying to stay with the 4.125 bore because it opens up even more head options instead of going with the iron block which your max bore that would be safe in my book would be 4.070-4.080.
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1
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From: jacksonville florida
02 camaro stock ls7 A while back I built a stock ls7 for my 02 Camaro SS,LE with auto trans first
time on dyno with a week auto it made 460 + wrhp.So for a street car with the right cam it should be a hand full.
time on dyno with a week auto it made 460 + wrhp.So for a street car with the right cam it should be a hand full.
Well, I have three cracked LS7 blocks here to repair at the moment. Any detonation at all will crack a sleeve and block. I have had shops send me cracked blocks from engines just getting a dyno tune to squeeze a bit more power out of the engine.
It is a lot cheaper to sleeve the block prior to the build than to build the engine twice.
Steve
It is a lot cheaper to sleeve the block prior to the build than to build the engine twice.
Steve
You sure about that? I'm seeing 6,xxx for the short block and 10,xxx for the long block for the LS7.
http://www.texas-speed.com/c-107-427...ng-blocks.aspx
Never mind, found the LS7 block only for 2899 on the site.
http://www.texas-speed.com/c-123-engine-blocks.aspx
http://www.texas-speed.com/c-107-427...ng-blocks.aspx
Never mind, found the LS7 block only for 2899 on the site.
http://www.texas-speed.com/c-123-engine-blocks.aspx
Last edited by Roarin_8; Jul 24, 2012 at 02:04 PM.
