Sleeved Ls motor ?'s! (Hidden Cost)
Saving for a resleeved Ls2 an i want to know what things are needed that aren't mentioned much when buy a motor of this type. Dont want to be surprised by any parts that are needed to run this type of build!
THANKS FOR ANY INFO GUYS!!!!!!!!!!
1)COOLING: Do engines of this type run higher temps then stock sleeve engines due to the sleeving process? Is a special type of antifreeze needed? Is a high flow water pump or electric water pump needed? Is a KURT URBAN WATER VAPOR SET-UP nessesary on this type of build?
2)OILING: Is an aftermarket oil cooling system recommended? Is the regular oiling system (ported ls6 or meiling) capable of keeping up with this type of build? Or is something else needed?
3)Pistons: Are custom pistons and rings neccesary or is there an off the shelf piston for the sleeved block? Nitrited rings worth it for small shot?
4)Vacuum: Are you guys having vaccum issues with these type motors? Is a vaccum pump recommended?
Im sure i could call RED, VA SPEED, OR ERL to get these ?'s answered but i thought id ask people with real world long term driving experience with a block of this type what all is needed. It will be a daily Driver/weekend warrior 427 11.1 compression setup with tfs heads small cam nitrous car!
AM I GOING OVER BOARD WITH WORRY GUYS? OR WOULD ALL THESE THINGS HELP OUT!
Last edited by pewterthang; Jul 30, 2012 at 01:04 AM.
Anyone else? Am i willing to purchase all these parts..... YES!! Just want to know what im getting into up front! THANKS AGAIN FOR ANY INFO GUYS
Saving for a resleeved Ls2 an i want to know what things are needed that aren't mentioned much when buy a motor of this type. Dont want to be surprised by any parts that are needed to run this type of build!
THANKS FOR ANY INFO GUYS!!!!!!!!!!
1)COOLING: Do engines of this type run higher temps then stock sleeve engines due to the sleeving process? Is a special type of antifreeze needed? Is a high flow water pump or electric water pump needed? Is a KURT URBAN WATER VAPOR SET-UP nessesary on this type of build?
2)OILING: Is an aftermarket oil cooling system recommended? Is the regular oiling system (ported ls6 or meiling) capable of keeping up with this type of build? Or is something else needed?
3)Pistons: Are custom pistons and rings neccesary or is there an off the shelf piston for the sleeved block? Nitrited rings worth it for small shot?
4)Vacuum: Are you guys having vaccum issues with these type motors? Is a vaccum pump recommended?
Im sure i could call RED, VA SPEED, OR ERL to get these ?'s answered but i thought id ask people with real world long term driving experience with a block of this type what all is needed. It will be a daily Driver/weekend warrior 427 11.1 compression setup with tfs heads small cam nitrous car!
AM I GOING OVER BOARD WITH WORRY GUYS? OR WOULD ALL THESE THINGS HELP OUT!
2: Big cube guys run Melling and ported LS6 oil pumps.
3: Shelf pistons will work depending on your combination, you can get custom pistons for any application. But weather or not sleeved blocks require a specific piston I don't remember ever reading anything about that.
4: A vaccum pump is your choice. Some guys run them because they eliminate the need for a PCV system. The big thing on these engines is they are known for excessive blow by and oil consumption in the intake tract. But you can run a good PCV system with a good catch can and be fine. Vacuum pumps are about oil control and ring seal. People have claimed anywhere from 10 to 40 horsepower gain from adding a vacuum pump. If your interested in one check out GZ Motorsports they make a nice LSX bracket and pump.
You might be going overboard, but it never hurts to be thorough and do it right the first time.
2: Big cube guys run Melling and ported LS6 oil pumps.
3: Shelf pistons will work depending on your combination, you can get custom pistons for any application. But weather or not sleeved blocks require a specific piston I don't remember ever reading anything about that.
4: A vaccum pump is your choice. Some guys run them because they eliminate the need for a PCV system. The big thing on these engines is they are known for excessive blow by and oil consumption in the intake tract. But you can run a good PCV system with a good catch can and be fine. Vacuum pumps are about oil control and ring seal. People have claimed anywhere from 10 to 40 horsepower gain from adding a vacuum pump. If your interested in one check out GZ Motorsports they make a nice LSX bracket and pump.
You might be going overboard, but it never hurts to be thorough and do it right the first time.

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The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
HONESTLY I WANT TO GO OVERBOARD TO GIVE MYSELF A CUSHION IN THE REGARD TO LONGEVITY! Canton oil cooler kit with a fan attached on the cooler, Evans water pump system with stock radiator an dual fan setup! hopefully that will keep temps under control! We will see!
stock radiator, stock fans, stock water pump, perhaps a small oem type oil cooler if you must are all that will be necessary unless you have some unusual blockage to the airflow.
Big reason to go to sleeves is to get the 4.125 or larger bore. This allows use of LS7 based heads - an option might want to look into. Getting close to 600 rwhp in a DD is possible with the right head/cam/intake combination on a 427 - do some serious research here before you buy the top end.
Just curious what is your budget for this engine?
LS3 heads. LS3 intake. Manley forged rotating assembly.Smaller 230/236 cam.
It's in a 67 Nova.Was a LS1/4L60E combo. Pulled the LS1 and kept the 4L60E.
It does warm up faster than the typical LS swap. I have a LS3 73 Camaro and a LS6 98 Wrangler to compare.
Comes up to heat faster. Around town the fan kicks in sooner.Controlled by the ECM. As soon as it's back on the highway the temp comes back to the thermostat. No indication of overheating in town. Running a single 16" Spal fan. Largest Griffiin radiator that fit. 1.25 dual cooling tubes.
Torque is vvveerry impressive. Relearning what it means if you nail it at 50 mph.
Would not build a small cube LS again.
HONESTLY I WANT TO GO OVERBOARD TO GIVE MYSELF A CUSHION IN THE REGARD TO LONGEVITY! Canton oil cooler kit with a fan attached on the cooler, Evans water pump system with stock radiator an dual fan setup! hopefully that will keep temps under control! We will see!
I have over (start of playing)800-950RWHP( end of playing) on a sleeved 427 I DD the car for over a year 10k-15k miles went though 6 sets of tires 6 clutches gallons and gallons of 93 and methanol.
stock water pump, rad, hose, 1096 oil pump, stock AC, full leather inside with all stock parts . engine is running strong still could mostly likey drive for another 50k before rebuild but i want to change stuff so im pulling it down to changes stuff at 20k
LS3 heads. LS3 intake. Manley forged rotating assembly.Smaller 230/236 cam.
It's in a 67 Nova.Was a LS1/4L60E combo. Pulled the LS1 and kept the 4L60E.
It does warm up faster than the typical LS swap. I have a LS3 73 Camaro and a LS6 98 Wrangler to compare.
Comes up to heat faster. Around town the fan kicks in sooner.Controlled by the ECM. As soon as it's back on the highway the temp comes back to the thermostat. No indication of overheating in town. Running a single 16" Spal fan. Largest Griffiin radiator that fit. 1.25 dual cooling tubes.
Torque is vvveerry impressive. Relearning what it means if you nail it at 50 mph.
Would not build a small cube LS again.
Big reason to go to sleeves is to get the 4.125 or larger bore. This allows use of LS7 based heads - an option might want to look into. Getting close to 600 rwhp in a DD is possible with the right head/cam/intake combination on a 427 - do some serious research here before you buy the top end.
Just curious what is your budget for this engine?
I have over (start of playing)800-950RWHP( end of playing) on a sleeved 427 I DD the car for over a year 10k-15k miles went though 6 sets of tires 6 clutches gallons and gallons of 93 and methanol.
stock water pump, rad, hose, 1096 oil pump, stock AC, full leather inside with all stock parts . engine is running strong still could mostly likey drive for another 50k before rebuild but i want to change stuff so im pulling it down to changes stuff at 20k






