6.0L+7.0L rotating assem.
6.0L+7.0L rotating assem. is it possable to bore and stroke a 6.0L aluminum or iron to accept a 427{7.0L} rotating assembly? i got a good deal on a 427 asembley and was wandering if it can be done and not be a oil sipper.also what heads would be best of this set up ls6 or 317 castings? i will drive the car around town a lil and to the track more than anything. is forged pistons worth it? going to spray 200 or so on it. or will factory replacements do? and where do i get the titanuim rods from? gm only?
Last edited by 11.50fox; Feb 15, 2013 at 03:44 PM.
no lol.
LS7 = 4.125 bore
LS2 = 4.0
way too much difference between the two, even using an ls3 block would be out of the question.
You can A, buy an ls7 block, or B have your current block sleeved (this is the best route)
LS7 = 4.125 bore
LS2 = 4.0
way too much difference between the two, even using an ls3 block would be out of the question.
You can A, buy an ls7 block, or B have your current block sleeved (this is the best route)
Lq4/9 are the same blocks.
More than a 4" stroke and you get skirt wear issues
And even still, for the 4.125 bore you either are going to need to sleeve a block, or find an ls7.
More than a 4" stroke and you get skirt wear issues
And even still, for the 4.125 bore you either are going to need to sleeve a block, or find an ls7.
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I'd do the 6.0 iron block bored to 4.030" and stroked to 4" to make 408 CID. Very strong motor if everything is forged and can easily make 500 hp N/A. Bonus is it can handle a lot of spray.
even better if youre able to use the light Ti rods..lol. :sigh: i remember when they we 50 bucks a piece or so.
its possible with a .060 over LQ4/9 and a 4.125" crankshaft. but not a very street friendly setup because of skirt wear and oil consumption. Its more popular to go with a 408 (.030 over 6.0 block with a 4" crank) or a 370 (stock LS crank and .030 over bore)
