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because my motor crapped out again.
Stock didn't last after a lot of effort.
Starting with an LQ4/9 block and boring out to 4.030 and filling with Diamond Racing forged with small reliefs.
Rotating around and around is an Eagle forged 4340 4.000 stroke chunk. Just ordered it today.
Connecting the two together is a set of Scat 6.125 forged 4340 rods.
All bearings are Clevite 77's.
All seals/gaskets are stock GM.
Giving the engine a heart is a Lunati 55008 cam I used previously in the 5.7. The spec is .595/.595 but when mic'd and after conversion with the 1.7 ratio, it comes up .600/.601 along with 238/242 112+4.
Nothing fancy planned for lifters. Don't have pushrods yet since I don't have heads but the plan is LS3/L99s with a ported intake.
Previously I used a GMPP intake with Aarons elbow, stock TB and MAF.
For about 5 minutes it ran using a modified Aarons with 90mm TB and SD.
This is when I figured out it wasn't right and checked the water. There wasn't any??? i checked the oil. THERES the water!
Elbow I've got but nothing planned for it now... 102mm never installed.
Throttle I would like to go to eventually with a 4150 base intake (similar to or another GMPP).
So I had a block lined up to purchase from a member selling it. texted several times, PM'd and even spoke on phone for about 10 minutes one evening. Had set a date (3 days off) where I would drive there, hand him cash and be off with a block ready for assembly!!!!!!
Alas, the night before driving there, I texted again for directions and dude says Oh… I sold it…
Now while I understand sellers have the right to chose and pick whom they sell to, once you strike a deal and such, just seems a bit chicken-sh*t to me to sell. I've been second on the list numerous times and hold no grudges there. I wasn't fast enough, but this was a new level of crap!!!
Alright, so now I'm waiting on a larger quantity of funds before I can get the machining done for my block
That is all.
I've got my Eagle 4.000" stroker crank delivered and the full rotating assembly is ready for balancing. Plan on using a shop over in Chicago but don't wanna drive there until I'm ready for the block work as well. About a 5+ hour drive and even with gas prices slightly dropping right now, not looking to make several trips if I can avoid it.
Once the power-honing is completed, I've got the rings ready for gap setting.
Got a pair of bare heads and still need to purchase springs, valves, lifters/retainers/keepers.
Purchased an LS3 intake off our favorite internet auction site along with a nice 92mm throttle body. Also 'offered' for a savings on a set of mls head gaskets for this build.
Trying to stay motivated on this. I realize it's winter now (we got snow two nights ago) and the car would be put up anyway, but this is the third winter in a row the car has been torn down. Starting to bum me out.
As I was typing this, I realize the balancing of the rotating assembly includes the pistons, rods, crank, wrist pins, spiralocks (in this case). Shouldn't the rings be included on the balancing? Is the flex plate needed when I have the shop do this? Balancer as well? Thanks
Delivered the block, crank, pistons, rods, bearings and hardware to the shop.
AES hopefully can work miracles with the block. Sold the LS3 intake and made a few bucks. Now need to figure out what I want. Also need to sell some MSD coils and free up cash.
Total machining effort looks to be about 1500 when done but the block will be practically new and the balanced rotating should hum when installed
Found out the heads I used previously (bought and sold back to same guy) were tested and had numerous cracks after all. Looks like i started with a turd last time around
Whats the record for the slowest engine build on here? I managed just under 6 years for my rearend...
Block is picked up and completed. Mic'd 12 points per cylinder for all 8 to get a good blueprinting.
Crank shaft was new (with factory 0.010 on mains and rods I was told) from Texas Speed. Turns out the new crank with 0.010 main bearings and 0.010 rod bearings wasn't quite a match. The rods were 0.010, but the mains were STOCK... Cranks don't want to turn very well when you put them into the 0.010 bearings and don't turn at all when you cap and torque it down. Few phone calls and little post office visit - all corrected.
Pistons hung on the rods and block painted. Short block assembled with new seals/plugs/gaskets and looking sharp!
Got a set of 823 heads with stainless intake and exhaust valves (2.16/1.60) along with Livernois 0.690 springs, Comp Cams spring locators and retainers, Lunati keepers topped off with a beautiful set of 1.70 Yella Terra rockers. Just need to assemble the valve train after blueprinting the springs. Pushrod checker tool in hand, new head gaskets and valve seals too. Got some billet head locator dowels on ebay. Just a matter of assembly for the most part. Pics coming later.
Intake on the engine assembly. Need to bolt the heads down properly, just trying it on for size. Had to clearance the cowl area quite a bit as you can see.
Most my suspension/chassis parts cleaned up and prepped for re-powdercoating.
Looks pretty good huh?
Once it warms up, I'll finish this off with a good set of 3/8" pushrods, torque everything down, adjust the drag bar, do fluids, upload the tune, charge the battery (replace it most likely) and hit the streets for the first time in 2 1/2 years.
10-10-2013, 09:41 PM
Starting my 408 build 
