How to increase RPM on a stock LS3...
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From: Sun Diego
How to increase RPM on a stock LS3... Looking at a Chevy SS, and have a few basic questions on how to up the RPMs on a stock LS3 - going from just raising the rev limiter, to upgrading valve train components.
First of all, what can you safely raise the RPM to in a stock LS3? Just by reprogramming the redline...?
Next, for a minimum of outlay, would I be able to just upgrade the springs? If so, which spring(s), and what would be the max RPM I would be looking at as a result, with just a spring upgrade?
That's about the extent of my personal knowledge, so what's next after springs? I remember reading about rod bolts...
First of all, what can you safely raise the RPM to in a stock LS3? Just by reprogramming the redline...?
Next, for a minimum of outlay, would I be able to just upgrade the springs? If so, which spring(s), and what would be the max RPM I would be looking at as a result, with just a spring upgrade?
That's about the extent of my personal knowledge, so what's next after springs? I remember reading about rod bolts...
The engine will not make much power above the stock redline without something to help it breathe and a better tune. You cannot just raise the rev limiter and pray.
The springs are ok and should be good on a brand new car. A tune will likely wake it up alot.
Next up would be exhaust (which we have avail from Kooks) and intakes (likely K&N, Cold Air Inductions, Airaid, etc) then after that I would recommend camshaft. You could put in a camshaft with all stock components and pick up power and RPMs but it would be lacking in quite a few areas.
The springs are ok and should be good on a brand new car. A tune will likely wake it up alot.
Next up would be exhaust (which we have avail from Kooks) and intakes (likely K&N, Cold Air Inductions, Airaid, etc) then after that I would recommend camshaft. You could put in a camshaft with all stock components and pick up power and RPMs but it would be lacking in quite a few areas.
Thread Starter
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From: Sun Diego
I did not ask about how much power above redline it would make, nor did I ask about a "tune" or "waking up" the car.
I will be going F/I later on. Question is about RPM right now.
I will be going F/I later on. Question is about RPM right now.
Anything over stock shouldnt run stock springs. Easy enough?
If you did homework on the LS3s which have been around for quite a while, you would see the normal recommendations for them. HD springs with boost is always a good idea. The rest should be alright if you arent breaking into the engine.
If you did homework on the LS3s which have been around for quite a while, you would see the normal recommendations for them. HD springs with boost is always a good idea. The rest should be alright if you arent breaking into the engine.
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Saskatchewan, Canada - where arguing "DA" is for the slow and weak...
Asking a vague question such as this without context and then shitting on others for providing salient information to both you and the community at large is just ******* sad.
This has to be the dumbest most empty headed post I have seen in a long time. Yes, set the rev limiter to over-9000 and let the big dog eat.... float those valves!
Asking a vague question such as this without context and then shitting on others for providing salient information to both you and the community at large is just ******* sad.
Asking a vague question such as this without context and then shitting on others for providing salient information to both you and the community at large is just ******* sad.
PS: That's was a serious jerk response to Cospeed. He was politely telling you it's a stupid idea when making no more power, all you risk is spinning bearings and floating valves.
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Not to mention, OP, to raise the Redline, you will HAVE TO "tune" it! It won't raise on its own. BTW, the stock redline will be 6500, so the limiter should be 67-6800. So bounce it off the limiter if you want, but making no additional power it will only make you slower.
PS: That's was a serious jerk response to Cospeed. He was politely telling you it's a stupid idea when making no more power, all you risk is spinning bearings and floating valves.
PS: That's was a serious jerk response to Cospeed. He was politely telling you it's a stupid idea when making no more power, all you risk is spinning bearings and floating valves.
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Yeah dude. Get a spring kit and hardened pushrods, then tune that bad boy to turn 7500RPM.
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From: Sun Diego
Okay, I'll try this again. This is kinda what I am looking for in the way of guidance:
1) If you replace the stock springs with upgraded springs, you can bump the RPMs from 6250 to 6750
2) If you replace the pushrods in addition to the springs, you can bump the RPMs up to 7250
3) If you replace the rod bolts in addition to the springs and pushrods, you can bump the RPMs to 7500
1) If you replace the stock springs with upgraded springs, you can bump the RPMs from 6250 to 6750
2) If you replace the pushrods in addition to the springs, you can bump the RPMs up to 7250
3) If you replace the rod bolts in addition to the springs and pushrods, you can bump the RPMs to 7500
Stock springs/pushrods are fine to 7k - I wouldn't rev past that. Rod bolts aren't the weak link in the LS3 rod, no need to change/replace them until you go to a forged rod (they're cracked rods anyway).
You have to up the limiter in the tune and change limiter source from GMLan to Calibration (tune)
You have to up the limiter in the tune and change limiter source from GMLan to Calibration (tune)
Thread Starter
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From: Sun Diego
Interesting. So there are no upgrades you are aware of that would allow you to safely go north of 7K? And you are saying that no upgrades are necessary to go to 7K?
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"Interesting. So there are no upgrades you are aware of that would allow you to safely go north of 7K? And you are saying that no upgrades are necessary to go to 7K?"
What is your purpose in reving the motor to 7K or more? If it is for more power, than the 2nd post answered your question.
What is your purpose in reving the motor to 7K or more? If it is for more power, than the 2nd post answered your question.
He IS talking with boost. And if you are putting enough boost to warrant a 7k or higher redline, then you are either pushing alot of boost, or you will have a cam in the car, which defeats the entire purpose of this thread.
You will notice all the problems you are asking about WITH BOOST and a stock valvetrain above ~6000. The stock pushrods are roughly .080 wall anyway, but the tolerances are junk that is why they are replaced. If you are going to push it above 6500 then a larger pushrod is needed, likely an 11/32 which will take no machining to work.
To say you can push the stock valve train to 7k isnt very accurate nor considerate of the stock components.
You will notice all the problems you are asking about WITH BOOST and a stock valvetrain above ~6000. The stock pushrods are roughly .080 wall anyway, but the tolerances are junk that is why they are replaced. If you are going to push it above 6500 then a larger pushrod is needed, likely an 11/32 which will take no machining to work.
To say you can push the stock valve train to 7k isnt very accurate nor considerate of the stock components.
He IS talking with boost. And if you are putting enough boost to warrant a 7k or higher redline, then you are either pushing alot of boost, or you will have a cam in the car, which defeats the entire purpose of this thread.
You will notice all the problems you are asking about WITH BOOST and a stock valvetrain above ~6000. The stock pushrods are roughly .080 wall anyway, but the tolerances are junk that is why they are replaced. If you are going to push it above 6500 then a larger pushrod is needed, likely an 11/32 which will take no machining to work.
To say you can push the stock valve train to 7k isnt very accurate nor considerate of the stock components.
You will notice all the problems you are asking about WITH BOOST and a stock valvetrain above ~6000. The stock pushrods are roughly .080 wall anyway, but the tolerances are junk that is why they are replaced. If you are going to push it above 6500 then a larger pushrod is needed, likely an 11/32 which will take no machining to work.
To say you can push the stock valve train to 7k isnt very accurate nor considerate of the stock components.
I am sorry, what am I trying to sell here? I am giving technical advice.
You were basically trying to sell him a new engine telling him what you did.
I am a SPONSOR. I do sell parts, I do install parts, I do run these parts, and I do give quite a bit of technical info.
You were basically trying to sell him a new engine telling him what you did.
I am a SPONSOR. I do sell parts, I do install parts, I do run these parts, and I do give quite a bit of technical info.
He's giving relevant info. If you don't like it, do better, or better yet, pay for our advertising fees and we'll go back to the for sale forums.
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From: North Carolina
So, if you want to "wind it up" . . .
(1) Break out your check book
(2) Forged Crank, Rods, and Pistons
(3) New SOLID LIFTER cam and SOLID LIFTERS
(4) Lightweight Valves
(5) New Valve-Springs ( to match your new RPM limit )
(6) 3/8" Chrome-Moly Pushrods
(7) C5R Timing Chain
(8) Larger Fuel Injectors
(9) Strengthen rest of Drivetrain
(10) Re-Think your priorities
(1) Break out your check book
(2) Forged Crank, Rods, and Pistons
(3) New SOLID LIFTER cam and SOLID LIFTERS
(4) Lightweight Valves
(5) New Valve-Springs ( to match your new RPM limit )
(6) 3/8" Chrome-Moly Pushrods
(7) C5R Timing Chain
(8) Larger Fuel Injectors
(9) Strengthen rest of Drivetrain
(10) Re-Think your priorities