Pushrod Length Question
Now I will say this, all that math I just did means nothing. MEASURE YOUR PUSHROD LENGTH! DON'T GUESS.
Now I will say this, all that math I just did means nothing. MEASURE YOUR PUSHROD LENGTH! DON'T GUESS.
I do have the new 224 cam sitting next to me with cam card on hand, but I don't see any info about the base circle on it. For the record I will measure before install. I am only guessing at this point because this car is my DD. I need the parts on hand to get everything done in a timely manner. I will not install the wrong pushrods. I was just hoping someone with a similar setup could tell me what they used.
Maybe if someone could tell me what pushrod they used on a comp cam only swap. That would give me a better idea at this point. I have a feeling its going to be close to stock length though. Keep the advice coming fellas!
I do have the new 224 cam sitting next to me with cam card on hand, but I don't see any info about the base circle on it. For the record I will measure before install. I am only guessing at this point because this car is my DD. I need the parts on hand to get everything done in a timely manner. I will not install the wrong pushrods. I was just hoping someone with a similar setup could tell me what they used.
Maybe if someone could tell me what pushrod they used on a comp cam only swap. That would give me a better idea at this point. I have a feeling its going to be close to stock length though. Keep the advice coming fellas!
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Are you sure about that? I thought that myth had been debunked, the ls7 is the gm replacement for everything now, I can't imagine they would expect everyone to also replace pushrods because they've changed the plunger location. I always measure and don't run ls7's, so I don't really care either way, just trying to stop some misinformation for some future readers. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
But when you start stacking tolerances (new lifter, different cam, etc... Then you should measure because you've created a custom setup with new parts!
Each 1/4 turn of the rocker arm bolt equals approx .020" movement of the pushrod into the lifter.
So, if you set the set the rocker to zero lash while the piston is at TDC (on compression stroke), it should take approx 3/4 of a turn of the bolt when it reaches it's desired torque of 22 ft lb.
If it does, you should be very very close to .060" lifter preload.
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Last edited by Tin Indian; Jun 14, 2014 at 01:22 PM.
As far as pushrod length is concerned, The length I told you guys I purchased worked just fine but my preload is high .80, This is with a 224/224 tsp cam and 243's milled .30, head gasket was the stock width. Now here's the kicker, during installation I went ahead and measured pushrod length, I did lots of research so I was counting on having the correct length, Which I did.. for 6 cylinders... I got 10 turns on my checker for the back 6 cylinders but the front two were at 8 turns.. Wow! I was shocked after remeasuring checking for tdc, over and over I came to the conclusion that my heads were milled unevenly... So moral of the story guys, buy multiple sets of different lengths and return what you don't use or wait, measure and then purchase.
measure the Intake valve when the EXHAUST valve begins to open, this will assure that the intake valve is on the heel of the intake lobe.
measure the Exhaust valve when the INTAKE valve has just closed .
In closing, always measure!
cam ground at 227*/234*- .613/.576 @ 110*Lsa











