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question on which stroker size?

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Old Feb 27, 2015 | 08:32 AM
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Default question on which stroker size?

I've been thinking of getting a stroker motor and am wondering all the differences. I see 383 408 415 428 and so forth. I know in the SBF some sizes had oiling issues as the pin was into the ringland. I'm looking for a good driver not maxed out race. I already have a 6.0 alum motor with LS3 heads, 102 Fast intake and a nice nitrous cam with 2 stage Nitrous Outlet plate. I run 10's na.

I've seen some rotating assemblies that I can buy for my 6.0 which look like a drop in. When do you start clearancing the block or do you even have to? I tried searching but I only see already picked stroker motors but not any differences which one might be better. I know with SBC you start getting into rod angles and length issues as you get bigger. LSX is all new to me. thanks
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Old Feb 27, 2015 | 09:08 AM
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For a street daily driver I would not go more than 4.0" stroke. I have biult a couple of 4.125 ones and they do fine but I don't see them as high mileage motors.
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Old Feb 27, 2015 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Bowtiedford
I've been thinking of getting a stroker motor and am wondering all the differences. I see 383 408 415 428 and so forth. I know in the SBF some sizes had oiling issues as the pin was into the ringland. I'm looking for a good driver not maxed out race. I already have a 6.0 alum motor with LS3 heads, 102 Fast intake and a nice nitrous cam with 2 stage Nitrous Outlet plate. I run 10's na.

I've seen some rotating assemblies that I can buy for my 6.0 which look like a drop in. When do you start clearancing the block or do you even have to? I tried searching but I only see already picked stroker motors but not any differences which one might be better. I know with SBC you start getting into rod angles and length issues as you get bigger. LSX is all new to me. thanks
You will need to remove a small amount of material from the block/sleeve on all 8 cylinders to clear the rod bolts. Easily done with a die grinder, or dremel.

How do you plan to use the car? The torque comes in nice and early with a stroker (so it's nice in my 3700lb M6 daily driver) but I don't know how much faster you'd be (with a stroker) in light race car with a stalled auto.
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Old Feb 27, 2015 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Bowtiedford
I've been thinking of getting a stroker motor and am wondering all the differences. I see 383 408 415 428 and so forth. I know in the SBF some sizes had oiling issues as the pin was into the ringland. I'm looking for a good driver not maxed out race. I already have a 6.0 alum motor with LS3 heads, 102 Fast intake and a nice nitrous cam with 2 stage Nitrous Outlet plate. I run 10's na.

I've seen some rotating assemblies that I can buy for my 6.0 which look like a drop in. When do you start clearancing the block or do you even have to? I tried searching but I only see already picked stroker motors but not any differences which one might be better. I know with SBC you start getting into rod angles and length issues as you get bigger. LSX is all new to me. thanks
The cylinders are too short in stock blocks for anything over a 4" stroke with run of the mill parts. You can put more stroke in it, but you're going to need a well designed piston to accommodate. You shouldn't have any issues with clearancing with a 4" crank. I've never seen any oiling issues with the pin being in the oil ring. Most times that I've seen pin problems the bin bores are too small. A lot of people run them as is, but that is a very important clearance. The pistons and rods need to be pin fit. Too tight = no oil on the pins.
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Old Feb 27, 2015 | 11:56 PM
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I'm leaning towards a 4 stroke since it looks like a good combo. My car is all stock looking with a/c and heat, full interior but stangs are light from the word get go.
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by WE TODD DID
You shouldn't have any issues with clearancing with a 4" crank.
Are you saying no clearancing required with 4" stroke?
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