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People with LS7 internals experience, need advice!

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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 08:56 AM
  #41  
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Googled around a bit this am, Indmar may be wrong. Found several ranges for all GM LS rods from 15#/60° thru 15#/110°. Also read that non-LS7 bolts are grade 10.9, while the LS7 bolts are 12.9. This chart on LS1Howto shows there are 2 different settings for early and late non-LS7 rods, both showing 15# with the early bolts going 60° and the later bolts going 75°. Since the LS7 bolt is a higher grade, it stands to reason that they're capable of going to 110°. Indmar may have mistakenly used the settings for the later non-LS7 rods in their manual, unless they felt there was some compelling reason to do so. Lucky for me my engine, while primed and full of oil, is still on the engine stand...

Pic, straight from the dealer's desk!
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Last edited by S10xGN; Mar 30, 2016 at 10:37 AM. Reason: Added pic
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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 10:18 AM
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The LS7/LS9 bolts definitely have a higher tensile strength and yield, so they do have a higher torque than the other LS rod bolts. My buddy works for the company that manufactures them. They are made in Germany, FWIW.

I went with ARP bolts for my build. The shop had no trouble resizing the rods, but they do have experience with LS7 motors.
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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 12:47 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by S10xGN
Googled around a bit this am, Indmar may be wrong. Found several ranges for all GM LS rods from 15#/60° thru 15#/110°. Also read that non-LS7 bolts are grade 10.9, while the LS7 bolts are 12.9. This chart on LS1Howto shows there are 2 different settings for early and late non-LS7 rods, both showing 15# with the early bolts going 60° and the later bolts going 75°. Since the LS7 bolt is a higher grade, it stands to reason that they're capable of going to 110°. Indmar may have mistakenly used the settings for the later non-LS7 rods in their manual, unless they felt there was some compelling reason to do so. Lucky for me my engine, while primed and full of oil, is still on the engine stand...

Pic, straight from the dealer's desk!
I still have a call into my dealer tech to confirm. My chamfering went well and I'll confirm one way or another when my engine makes it off the dyno in a couple months. Only reason I didn't go with the Katech/ARP bolts to not distort the housing bore I already had-requiring hone work to make round again. I haven't heard of standard LS7 rods/bolts failing under the loads I plan to run, so we'll see how it works out.
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