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Question About Reusing Main Cap Bolts

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Old Jun 21, 2015 | 09:42 PM
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Default Question About Reusing Main Cap Bolts

I know the bolts are reusable. My question is how many times can you safely reuse them?

Background: Bought a 2010 LY6 short block out of a dealer's Suburban shop vehicle reputed to have about 80K miles. I disassembled it to clean the ring grooves and regap and reassembled it after plasti-gauging. After about 12 passes, extremely high converter charge pressure knocked out the thrust destroying the crank and sprung a couple of mains. Block is currently at a machine with another set of caps for an align bore and hard to say how many times the bolts will be retorqued before they get done.

- Is that too many retorques or are they still good?
- What are the part #s if I need another set?
- Trying to minimize expense after getting screwed by AES, so if they should be replaced, how much better, if at all, would an eBay kit be? Any recommendations on a seller?

TIA,
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Old Jun 22, 2015 | 08:45 AM
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What transmission are you running?
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Old Jun 22, 2015 | 10:02 AM
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I've read that 4-6 is about the max but considering the abuse to the main caps I'd consider replacing them.
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Old Jun 22, 2015 | 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 93Z2871805
What transmission are you running?
I am running an FTI 1.80 glide with a PTC converter. The glide had normal pressure on the FTI tranny dyno with a generic converter, but when we put my converter on, the pressure shot up to 130+psi!

After giving it some thought, I am just going to replace the bolts.

Thanks for the responses.
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Old Jun 22, 2015 | 05:14 PM
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Good call, you've spent the money on getting the block done. No sense in risking throwing things out of whack.
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 2JZFC
I am running an FTI 1.80 glide with a PTC converter. The glide had normal pressure on the FTI tranny dyno with a generic converter, but when we put my converter on, the pressure shot up to 130+psi!

After giving it some thought, I am just going to replace the bolts.

Thanks for the responses.
You may want to give Hutch a call and ask him if he has an inline regulator for glides (I have one on my TH400) to make life a little easier on your thrust bearing. The bolts are good for a few cycles, however after wiping a thrust bearing, I would just go ahead and replace them.
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 07:40 AM
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Problem has been corrected. FTI modified the port on the input shaft to get the pressure in range.
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 08:19 AM
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Right on. What are the overall specs on the car? 8.71 is hauling the mail.
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 12:12 PM
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It's a '92 notch weighing in guess at ~3,200lbs. I weigh 230# and it has a 10-pt mild-steel cage. The 8.71 was accomplished with an AES 390 shortblock, stock 317s, LJMS cam, Pro-flo intake with stock TB, flipped manifolds with 2.5" x-over, standard T6 S480 with 96/1.32 hsg at only 17psi, pump E-85, 3:55s, MT275s and MS3X. The AES 390 was doomed from day-1. Early on it ran 8.74 and 8.71 on the same day and it was all downhill from there. Checking it out I found #5 at 58% leakdown and on the teardown it did not have much of a hone. That's about all I will say as any thoughts of dealing with them gives me nightmares. I've moved on to an SBE LY6 shortblock carrying over everything else and will see what I can get out of it.

The 8.71 pass had a 1.322 60' which sounds decent but it was really bad. The revs would get to 5800 in .5 sec but the PTC couples so hard that the RPMs would level off then drop 200 before recovering and start climbing. All this happening before the 60'. You can see the nose come up then immediately drop as the PTC couples. Think I have figured out how to overcome that once I get back out again.

Name:  8.71_zpspd1u6vhl.jpg
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Here is the 8.74 pass. Car in the other lane had NT on it's window so times were not displayed.


Here is a walkaround soon after I finished the swap with an LQ4 and LS1 intake.

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