Rectangular or cathedral on c5r?
I have a c5r 427 that I'm looking to have redone/freshened up. The question is what head to put on it? Some say cathedral others are pushing for rectangular style.
What do you all have to say?
Thanks in advance!
I'd still lean towards LS7 heads, they're similar to C5R heads anyways. I see them go for ~$1k in the classifieds pretty often. New exhaust valves, guides, and machine work is maybe $500 tops and you keep the titanium intake valves.




However with a 4.125 Bore or larger I would start with the
TFS LS7 Heads, Great Flow and value in a 260CC Intake Port
Volume that rivals a WCCH Ported OEM LS7 with the valve
Issues addressed in a 280CC Intake Port.
In a Cathedral MMS 250 with MAMOFIED FAST 102, NW102 TB would offer
Phenominal throttle response and only give up @ 6500+ RPM
Considerably Greater $$$ though.
If you want to spin 7000+ RPM I would also recommend LLSR
From CAM MOTION.
Just my .02
Since you already have a ported Fast cathedral you may just want to go with a killer aftermarket like Tony Mamo's new 235 heads. For max power the 250s might make more but it seems like you just want a silly street car with explosive mid range.
A Cam Motion low lash solid roller somewhere in the mid 240s duration would help you plan for a 2500-6500 power band
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MMS 235s with light valves, talk with Tony Mamo @ MMS.
LLSR from CAM MOTION something like
243*-247* Intake, 247*-251* Exhaust, ~.680" Intake,.650" Exhaust
LSA 114*+2*-3* . Rip your face off throttle response from 1500RPM,
560-580 RWHP @~6500 RPM, Pull to 7000+ RPM with very little
Fall-Off, and great low speed Driveability, talk with Kip @ CAM MOTION.
you will be very happy, Guarenteed!
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What would you be pleased to see in terms of peak power be it at the flywheel or rear wheel (keeping in mind chassis dyno numbers vary alot more than engine/flywheel dyno numbers due to a host of variables in driveline mass and parasitic losses).
Once that question is answered I can tell you if a package like you describe is even possible (BIG power never comes with good low/midrange power and excellent drivability).
I'm thinking my new MMS 235 is exactly what your after....or should I say do exactly what you want but need to confirm how much power your hoping to see to know if a package built around these heads will suit your needs.
Don't forget everything is a trade off of sorts so focus on the part of the power curve your most excited to see beefed up.....its your car and your driving style and only you know exactly how the car will likely be used.
Not to mention it makes sense financially to stick with your current cathedral induction and based on what you described I think a killer highly optimized cathedral head might just cover all your bases.
Check out this thread if you haven't already
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ts-235-cc.html
Cheers,
Tony

www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
I'd still lean towards LS7 heads, they're similar to C5R heads anyways. I see them go for ~$1k in the classifieds pretty often. New exhaust valves, guides, and machine work is maybe $500 tops and you keep the titanium intake valves.
What machine shop are you using that will do all of the above for 500 bucks??
However with a 4.125 Bore or larger I would start with the
TFS LS7 Heads, Great Flow and value in a 260CC Intake Port
Volume that rivals a WCCH Ported OEM LS7 with the valve
Issues addressed in a 280CC Intake Port.
In a Cathedral MMS 250 with MAMOFIED FAST 102, NW102 TB would offer
Phenominal throttle response and only give up @ 6500+ RPM
Considerably Greater $$$ though.
If you want to spin 7000+ RPM I would also recommend LLSR
From CAM MOTION.
Just my .02





heads (ordered just before I saw the LS7s or I would have got those)
Which have had good results. Haven't seen results on heads yet
But with a taller straighter port and only 5 CC more port volume
and Huge flow, pretty sure they will be Excellent!
I think MMS 235s would be best for OPs goals though.
Last edited by NAVYBLUE210; Jul 26, 2015 at 07:46 PM.
What would you be pleased to see in terms of peak power be it at the flywheel or rear wheel (keeping in mind chassis dyno numbers vary alot more than engine/flywheel dyno numbers due to a host of variables in driveline mass and parasitic losses).
Once that question is answered I can tell you if a package like you describe is even possible (BIG power never comes with good low/midrange power and excellent drivability).
I'm thinking my new MMS 235 is exactly what your after....or should I say do exactly what you want but need to confirm how much power your hoping to see to know if a package built around these heads will suit your needs.
Don't forget everything is a trade off of sorts so focus on the part of the power curve your most excited to see beefed up.....its your car and your driving style and only you know exactly how the car will likely be used.
Not to mention it makes sense financially to stick with your current cathedral induction and based on what you described I think a killer highly optimized cathedral head might just cover all your bases.
Check out this thread if you haven't already
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ts-235-cc.html
Cheers,
Tony
My reason for doing so is to also state I can also help you with ported LS7 heads or ported LS3 heads....both of which I would likely use TFS castings for (and have both on my shelf).
My reason for not originally going there is due to the fact what you described seem better suited in a really efficient cathedral.....nothing around town would feel as lively and responsive (aka fun.....tire shredder....tons of throttle response)....if we could hit your target power goal with that head it would make perfect sense for you and was the reason I originally inquired about it.....more power ultimately could be had with a properly modified square port but no square port would act the same driving around town as the smaller efficient cathedral with alot more low RPM port velocity ....hence the "balancing act" I mentioned earlier as well.
There is no right choice because any of the heads I mentioned could qualify as the right choice but there is a right choice for YOU.....and that's what I'm trying to help you determine based on the questions and response you give. What's right for you might be wrong for a different customer's needs and visa versa.
-Tony

www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
My original post is to see what others are running or ran? Motor is out and at a well renowned engine builder and they ate going to give me their opinion on how the motor should be built. Sorry forgot to mention the car has a 3200 stall. I just want dive other opinions on other builds.
Thanks for all the good info so far.
My original post is to see what others are running or ran? Motor is out and at a well renowned engine builder and they ate going to give me their opinion on how the motor should be built. Sorry forgot to mention the car has a 3200 stall. I just want dive other opinions on other builds.
Thanks for all the good info so far.
540whp should be a cakewalk with any of the heads we're discussing. I just read Tooley has a couple LS2's with As Cast TFS cathedral heads making over 500whp. A couple C6Z buddies of mine are at about 580whp with stock LS7 heads (haven't dropped a valve yet lol).
540whp should be a cakewalk with any of the heads we're discussing. I just read Tooley has a couple LS2's with As Cast TFS cathedral heads making over 500whp. A couple C6Z buddies of mine are at about 580whp with stock LS7 heads (haven't dropped a valve yet lol).
Problem with big numbers thru a stalled auto is the efficiency of the converter....my guess is it would take anywhere from 670 - 700 at the crank to hit that target.
If truly nailing that goal or getting damn close was of high priority, I would probably modify a set of 245 AFR castings for you to nail that number (365-370 CFM) and it would still be very responsive and make the power your looking for if the build went together right. It would still be a build with a focus on a high air speed port design to boost the bottom of the curve but also supplying enough air to support the power we need to get you into the mid 550 range at the tire (depending on how stingy or optimistic the dyno is....another big variable).
I built this years ago.....made 680 at the crank and 600 ft/lbs.....I had the pleasure to drive this engine in the C5 it was installed in and it really ripped and had tons of top end pull. With some additional tricks and tweaks garnered over the last few years, your build could potentially be better. Its a 434 but a 427 would be very similar
Here is a link with all the info
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...afr-245-s.html
Once again....its really about which choice makes the most sense for you. My new 235 would boost the bottom some no doubt but its a stretch to make 540 RWHP thru a stalled auto (they just never look good on the chassis dyno as a general rule).....although with an optimized set-up, the right tune, the right converter, and a typical Dynojet number I think we could legitimately get there but without the perfect trifecta of all the items mentioned its more difficult.
The Mamofied 245's breath deeper and will make more top end power.....lower RPM snap will be effected but not dramatically different....hence the reason you might consider them. I think the trade is good....meaning you would certainly get a nice bump in the top end charge and only give up a modest amount of lower RPM "crispness" in the throttle. Unlike moving into a larger cam which typically only gains you a little at the expense of alot (low midrange torque, part throttle tip in, idle quality etc.)....those types of trades you have to think harder on.
Hope this helps
-Tony

www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!





