Hydrolocked LS3 bent rod and broken piston
Hydrolocked LS3 bent rod and broken piston I bought this LS3 from a 2014 SS with 14k miles. It sucked water into the intake, bent one rod and broke the piston.
I am looking for options.
I am planning on running an LSA supercharger with stock pulley, in an AWD application. Vehicle will weigh about 4000 lbs.
Should I
1) replace the rod and piston, and put it back together?
2) replace the piston and upgrade the rods
3) upgrade pistons and rods
I am looking for options.
I am planning on running an LSA supercharger with stock pulley, in an AWD application. Vehicle will weigh about 4000 lbs.
Should I
1) replace the rod and piston, and put it back together?
2) replace the piston and upgrade the rods
3) upgrade pistons and rods
I have been looking for lsa rods and pistons. Can't find a set used. Anyone know where a set might be?
TECH Addict
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 2,189
Likes: 123
From: Portland, Oregon
Pace performance has the lsa rods, p/n 12604857, for $35 a pop... Are you going to really save that much buying them used?
There's a plethora of forged pistons for relatively cheap.
And even the lsa uses hyper pistons, not forged. A bad tune/detonation will kill a forged piston just as easily as it will kill a hyper piston.
There's a plethora of forged pistons for relatively cheap.
And even the lsa uses hyper pistons, not forged. A bad tune/detonation will kill a forged piston just as easily as it will kill a hyper piston.
Pace performance has the lsa rods, p/n 12604857, for $35 a pop... Are you going to really save that much buying them used?
There's a plethora of forged pistons for relatively cheap.
And even the lsa uses hyper pistons, not forged. A bad tune/detonation will kill a forged piston just as easily as it will kill a hyper piston.
There's a plethora of forged pistons for relatively cheap.
And even the lsa uses hyper pistons, not forged. A bad tune/detonation will kill a forged piston just as easily as it will kill a hyper piston.
As for part numbers.
Does anyone know why the SS engine I have shows part number 12649190 for $105 on gmpartsdirect, and the zl1 and cts-v show 12604857 for $30?
I know the ls3 non-supercharged and LSA supercharged rods are different, but the price difference is weird.
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LSA rods are the same as LS3 rods. Powdered metal (not forged).
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Yeah. I think after reviewing my options, and what I want to do with this, I think I will replace the one piston and rod with the original, and put it back together. LS3 engines do well with 6-7 psi boost and proper tuning. I am not looking to make more than stock LSA power anyway.
Have a local shop perform two machining steps to the seven used rods as well as the one new one you purchase
All the pin bushings should be honed from .0004" wrist pin clearance to .0008"-.001" range
Also the big ends should get torqued with oil on the threads and EPL. Extreme pressure lubricant (dark grease) under the bolt head; and then receive just a few honing licks on the Sunnen rod machine. If done correctly, they will still be within size limits, have adacuete bearing crush, and most importantly will be round. It's really weird but true how the factory rods/bolts just do not repeat on size/roundness when retorqued. I've seen this on L33 stuff; LQ stuff; and my own LS3 rods
Out of round Rod big ends will murder new bearings and usually end with **** hanging out of the block. Check. Check. And re check everything
All the pin bushings should be honed from .0004" wrist pin clearance to .0008"-.001" range
Also the big ends should get torqued with oil on the threads and EPL. Extreme pressure lubricant (dark grease) under the bolt head; and then receive just a few honing licks on the Sunnen rod machine. If done correctly, they will still be within size limits, have adacuete bearing crush, and most importantly will be round. It's really weird but true how the factory rods/bolts just do not repeat on size/roundness when retorqued. I've seen this on L33 stuff; LQ stuff; and my own LS3 rods
Out of round Rod big ends will murder new bearings and usually end with **** hanging out of the block. Check. Check. And re check everything
TECH Addict
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 2,189
Likes: 123
From: Portland, Oregon
I will second the motion for getting factory rods blueprinted and balanced.
I have read about the oem rods not returning to round in arp rod bolt discussions, as well as discussions pertaining to reusing oem bearings... So it would probably behoove you to take the extra steps to ensure that all the rods are the same, and are all correct.
It's always cheaper to do it right the first time.
I have read about the oem rods not returning to round in arp rod bolt discussions, as well as discussions pertaining to reusing oem bearings... So it would probably behoove you to take the extra steps to ensure that all the rods are the same, and are all correct.
It's always cheaper to do it right the first time.
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 154
Likes: 12
I would re hone the block and put in new internals if the engine is out of the car and half the engine is apart. peace of mind and cost effectiveness are the two reasons why I would just freshen up the short block with new internals and machine work.
IF you have another car to drive to work and the Walmart then slow your roll do it once, do it right! 6-7 lbs of boost is only good until the guy next to you whoopz your *** at the light! then it goes to 10-12, *** kicked again THEN ITS ****!!!!!!!!! I SHOULD OF FORGED WHEN THE BLOCK WAS OUT LAST YEAR!!!!! LOL
IF you have another car to drive to work and the Walmart then slow your roll do it once, do it right! 6-7 lbs of boost is only good until the guy next to you whoopz your *** at the light! then it goes to 10-12, *** kicked again THEN ITS ****!!!!!!!!! I SHOULD OF FORGED WHEN THE BLOCK WAS OUT LAST YEAR!!!!! LOL
Any idea on the weight differences ?? The Katech take out LS3 rods I ended up with were IIRC 665 grams total so I'm just curious if these would have been from an LSA engine
