600 rwhp build question
Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 109
From: Ohio
Prices are rounded, mostly up.
Stock 5.3 pullout with wiring/ECU/accessories - $600
Adapter plates/mounts to fit your G-body - $50
Trick or KB Racing Manifold and stock truck Driver's side manifold - $600
2.25" V-bands for crossover and 2.25" truck flange - $80
2.25" Mandrel bend kit and 3.5" downpipe kit for hotside- $140
Welding materials for for Hotside - $100
VS Racing wastegate - $100
VS Racing 7875 turbo - $500
Ebay intercooler/piping kit - $160
Oil fittings/bungs/lines for turbo - $100
Extra couplers and T bolt clamps - $50
Siemens Deka 80 lb injectors - $320
Walbro 400/AEM 380 $140
40 Feet of Summit Twist-tite fuel line with fittings - $120
Cooling Mist or Snow Stage 2 water/methanol injection $300
AEM wideband - $180
Dyno tune - $600
60 hours of labor - Free if you get off your butt.
Total: $4140
600 whp, 20+ mpg, quiet idle, daily driven sleeper - Priceless.
Stock 5.3 pullout with wiring/ECU/accessories - $600
Adapter plates/mounts to fit your G-body - $50
Trick or KB Racing Manifold and stock truck Driver's side manifold - $600
2.25" V-bands for crossover and 2.25" truck flange - $80
2.25" Mandrel bend kit and 3.5" downpipe kit for hotside- $140
Welding materials for for Hotside - $100
VS Racing wastegate - $100
VS Racing 7875 turbo - $500
Ebay intercooler/piping kit - $160
Oil fittings/bungs/lines for turbo - $100
Extra couplers and T bolt clamps - $50
Siemens Deka 80 lb injectors - $320
Walbro 400/AEM 380 $140
40 Feet of Summit Twist-tite fuel line with fittings - $120
Cooling Mist or Snow Stage 2 water/methanol injection $300
AEM wideband - $180
Dyno tune - $600
60 hours of labor - Free if you get off your butt.
Total: $4140
600 whp, 20+ mpg, quiet idle, daily driven sleeper - Priceless.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,893
Likes: 703
From: Mississippi
Prices are rounded, mostly up.
Stock 5.3 pullout with wiring/ECU/accessories - $600
Adapter plates/mounts to fit your G-body - $50
Trick or KB Racing Manifold and stock truck Driver's side manifold - $600
2.25" V-bands for crossover and 2.25" truck flange - $80
2.25" Mandrel bend kit and 3.5" downpipe kit for hotside- $140
Welding materials for for Hotside - $100
VS Racing wastegate - $100
VS Racing 7875 turbo - $500
Ebay intercooler/piping kit - $160
Oil fittings/bungs/lines for turbo - $100
Extra couplers and T bolt clamps - $50
Siemens Deka 80 lb injectors - $320
Walbro 400/AEM 380 $140
40 Feet of Summit Twist-tite fuel line with fittings - $120
Cooling Mist or Snow Stage 2 water/methanol injection $300
AEM wideband - $180
Dyno tune - $600
60 hours of labor - Free if you get off your butt.
Total: $4140
600 whp, 20+ mpg, quiet idle, daily driven sleeper - Priceless.
Stock 5.3 pullout with wiring/ECU/accessories - $600
Adapter plates/mounts to fit your G-body - $50
Trick or KB Racing Manifold and stock truck Driver's side manifold - $600
2.25" V-bands for crossover and 2.25" truck flange - $80
2.25" Mandrel bend kit and 3.5" downpipe kit for hotside- $140
Welding materials for for Hotside - $100
VS Racing wastegate - $100
VS Racing 7875 turbo - $500
Ebay intercooler/piping kit - $160
Oil fittings/bungs/lines for turbo - $100
Extra couplers and T bolt clamps - $50
Siemens Deka 80 lb injectors - $320
Walbro 400/AEM 380 $140
40 Feet of Summit Twist-tite fuel line with fittings - $120
Cooling Mist or Snow Stage 2 water/methanol injection $300
AEM wideband - $180
Dyno tune - $600
60 hours of labor - Free if you get off your butt.
Total: $4140
600 whp, 20+ mpg, quiet idle, daily driven sleeper - Priceless.
Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 109
From: Ohio
I'm not a fan of the LS9 cam at all. It makes horrible low end power and spools slower than the stock cam. A real turbo cam will outperform it by a lot.
PSI depends. On a 100% stock engine, probably around the 18-20 PSI mark depending on turbo/tune, but boost is irrelevant. 40 PSI isn't going to stress the engine anymore than 10 PSI if the power/torque figures are similar. So many people seem to ignore that fact. I've had my stock 5.3 at 30+ PSI a number of times. A lot of people say "Yeah I make similar numbers but on less boost than you". That's great and all, but all my rods care about is torque.
PSI depends. On a 100% stock engine, probably around the 18-20 PSI mark depending on turbo/tune, but boost is irrelevant. 40 PSI isn't going to stress the engine anymore than 10 PSI if the power/torque figures are similar. So many people seem to ignore that fact. I've had my stock 5.3 at 30+ PSI a number of times. A lot of people say "Yeah I make similar numbers but on less boost than you". That's great and all, but all my rods care about is torque.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,893
Likes: 703
From: Mississippi
Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 109
From: Ohio
I made more than 700whp last year on a smaller cam than that.
There is a bone stock 4.8 running around here on the forums that made 800+whp on a stock cam and stock valvesprings, cutting 1.1 60' in a G-body. Like I said, cam changes the powerband, but boost will determine peak HP.
There is a bone stock 4.8 running around here on the forums that made 800+whp on a stock cam and stock valvesprings, cutting 1.1 60' in a G-body. Like I said, cam changes the powerband, but boost will determine peak HP.
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Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 109
From: Ohio
They're a third of the price, have more meat between the cylinders, and are easier to find (and therefore replace).
When you're using a stock engine, you're limited to what the pistons/rods can handle. The 5.3 and 6.0 have the same crank and rods and the only difference between pistons is bore size. With a turbo, displacement doesn't really determine peak power. So if the rods handle X power and you can easily make more than X power on a 5.3, spending the extra cash on the 6.0 doesn't seem necessary anymore.
When you're using a stock engine, you're limited to what the pistons/rods can handle. The 5.3 and 6.0 have the same crank and rods and the only difference between pistons is bore size. With a turbo, displacement doesn't really determine peak power. So if the rods handle X power and you can easily make more than X power on a 5.3, spending the extra cash on the 6.0 doesn't seem necessary anymore.
Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 109
From: Ohio
The pistons will live forever as long as the rings don't butt together or you don't have heavy detonation.
Gen 4 rods are stronger than most forged rods from the 60s through the 80s. Its surprising how much they can handle.
Running a 5.3 until it blows and swapping in a 6.0 is how most people decide they want to use a 5.3 first. If it blows, you know what you did wrong and you're only out $400. Blow a 6.0, and you're looking for one for a couple of weeks and have to spend $1200-1400 for a replacement. You'll gain torque, but not really any power capability with a 6.0. This is why the stock bottom end record keeps bouncing back and forth between 5.3s and 6.0s. They handle the same amount of power. Unless you forge the 6.0, its not going to be able to make any more than a 5.3 will.
The problem with that is, most people never blow the 5.3, and then never feel the urge to swap in that 6.0.