Try2pass

Would a hot cam to my LS3 give me more power throughout the power band or just on top end or? Would I then need to reprogram the computer?

KW Baraka

iTrader: (7)

From what I could tell of the power curves of the "LS3 430hp" crate engine versus the "LS376 / 480" hot cammed crate engine (only difference is the hot cam).....the hot cam makes about 30LB/FT torque at 3000 RPMs and 50LB/FT torque at 4000 RPMs more than the stock cam.

So....I'm gonna step out on a limb and say the hot cam will increase power throughout.

KW

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

We actually have an updated version of the hot cam we designed recently dynod 10hp more than the orig one. We sell it in a kit with pac1218 springs for $515. Uses stock prs just like the orig hotcam does and is just as quiet. Im sure it would add more power on th ls3 vs the ls1 we tested on.

Rpmspeed high lift hot cam kit

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

Forgot to add its on sale now for $500 shipped!

For more info email me
Rpmspeedtech@gmail.com

chitown64

how would this work on 06 gto ls2 going in 64 impala? can I keep stock converter?

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

You can keep stock converter yes. It should make a bit more power on an ls2 but a guess...maybe 10-15. It would be close to or at 400 at the wheels is my guess!

slogo

Was there a dyno sheet floating around here on this cam recently?
I thought it lost power in the mid area and only gained a few up top,
Why would you want to use a cam where you have to have more lift just to loose
power in the mid area just for a couple more HP up top that you probably
would not know was there. I would rather have less lift, less stress on valvetrain, for more cruising Power. Just my .02

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

When combos dont perform well on a dyno, everyones argument is "you cant race a dyno take it to the strip" so that is what he is doing.
As far as gaining a little and losing a little, this was the very first prototype cam. We have since improved on it. It gained above 5800 in both hp and tq and gained 200 rpm as well. it "lost" 2-3 ft lbs. Are you going to feel that? Thats normally within the repeatability of the dyno with heat soak even.
The customers response is he is extremely happy with it vs the og hotcam, it idles meaner, drives better, and is more fun overall. that is his .02.
Had this been a back to back dyno session, we would have seen higher gains, not 2 months later with 20-30* higher temps.
Dont just take my word for it, the customer will post up also and let you know.

dave04da

iTrader: (2)

Trust me.... even if this cam made the same power as the original GM cam I would chose it every time over the old one. This cam is sooo much more streetable, it does not buck or surge if you let out the clutch and idle in 1st, I could not do that before. I am also able to use 6th gear at 50 mph. something that was not possible with the old cam. I had to be doing at least 65 or it would surge. On top of all this it makes more power. All I know is it sure feels like at lot more than 10hp! My tuner had the GM cam rpm limit at 6100 he was able to put this at 6500 and it pulls hard all the way to it. This will deffinatly help keep the revs. up betwen shifts at the track.
As far as valve train wear, it is still just under .600 lift and with the proper springs it should not be any worse than the GM one. Aggressive ramp rates on lobes are what's hard on valve trains, and this one is just as easy as the original. I have zero sewing machine noise, or lifter tap.
A guy I work with has a ls1 z28 6m and pretty much the same mods as me, but with a TSP 228r and went to the same tuner as me (1 week later) and only put down 5 more hp. And 5 ftlbs of tq. He has driven my car and said he wished he would have bought this cam. Mostly because on the surging and bucking it does at low speeds. This cam is cheaper and makes more power, to me.... its a no-brainer!