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58x to 24x relucteur swap I’m in the prosses of swaping my gen 4 58x crank relucteur for a gen 3 24x. Please share you’re experience. How have you done it? Good or bad experience are welcome. Just want to now what I’m getting in to. Thanks for sharing! |
Its fairly easy , mind you I haven't started the engine yet so I don't know if it actually worked.I got this idea from one of the members post here on ls1tech. I drilled a small hole through the 58x reluctor wheel all the way through to the crank and scribed a mark too just in case . Heated the wheel with a torch and it came right off . Lined up the marks on the 58x wheel with 24x wheel and clamped them together. Using the drilled hole on the 58x wheel as a pilot hole drilled one through the 24x wheel . Heated up the 24x wheel and it slipped right on the crank . Lined up the hole on the reluctor wheel with hole on the crank left by the drill bit . Spot welded it to the crank while I was there. Hope this helps. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...7ee31e9293.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...98b23a0b2f.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...eec3672a17.jpg |
Originally Posted by Lsx Rubi
(Post 20011754)
Its fairly easy , mind you I haven't started the engine yet so I don't know if it actually worked.I got this idea from one of the members post here on ls1tech. I drilled a small hole through the 58x reluctor wheel all the way through to the crank and scribed a mark too just in case . Heated the wheel with a torch and it came right off . Lined up the marks on the 58x wheel with 24x wheel and clamped them together. Using the drilled hole on the 58x wheel as a pilot hole drilled one through the 24x wheel . Heated up the 24x wheel and it slipped right on the crank . Lined up the hole on the reluctor wheel with hole on the crank left by the drill bit . Spot welded it to the crank while I was there. Hope this helps. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...7ee31e9293.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...98b23a0b2f.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...eec3672a17.jpg |
Don't think it'll affect the balance , being that the reluctor is a circular disc the weight should be evenly distributed for the most part. |
You will notice the holes concentrated in one part of the reluctor. Those are to maintain balance when installed correctly, likely to correct any minor imbalance existent on the crank itself. |
I've had a few reputable machine shops tell me they wont swap the wheels. Better off finding a complete 24x crank and selling your 58x crank Shouldn't be out of pocket that way |
Originally Posted by LSleeper1500
(Post 20012320)
I've had a few reputable machine shops tell me they wont swap the wheels. Better off finding a complete 24x crank and selling your 58x crank Shouldn't be out of pocket that way |
Do any own have other experience to share? Do any one have try to d’où it without heating de relucter? I was thinking to make a puller that use the flywheel bolt to press the wheel in place with no heat. What do you think of that? |
I would be VERY careful with pressing it on. You do not want to distort it, which can happen if you are not VERY careful. |
Originally Posted by ly6
(Post 20012632)
Do any own have other experience to share? Do any one have try to d’où it without heating de relucter? I was thinking to make a puller that use the flywheel bolt to press the wheel in place with no heat. What do you think of that? |
Originally Posted by LSleeper1500
(Post 20012320)
I've had a few reputable machine shops tell me they wont swap the wheels. Did they give you a reason??? |
Reluctor swaps are pretty common place. Plenty of the OG super fast guys all did this because of lack of 58x aftermarket tuning support in the early days and I have never heard a single negative about it aside from most recommending a few tacks to keep the 24x in place. Most prefer the 24x billet reluctor which is available in many aftermarket stores now. I know this much; If I had a 24x car I would swap reluctors all day long before I converted the harness and ECM to 58x. If I was swapping into a non LS car I still prefer the OG cable drive 24x systems for ease of fitment and greater custom tunability with regards to drivetrain components and whatnot. I would only suggest swapping a 58x if it was a matched engine/trans/E38+OS all at once. Mix and matching engines and transmissions with e38 can bus systems is a royal pita |
Originally Posted by cam
(Post 20012728)
Reluctor swaps are pretty common place. |
I’ve done a few with the help of the Goodson indexing tool for precise location. Use heat (Mapp gas) to heat the wheel in at least 50% of the contact area, use a hammer to tap it off when it’s hot, don’t bend it. Secure the crank in a position like off the edge of your bench. Not difficult to do. |
I really like the procedure above, looks pretty simple. Just don't put too big of a hole in the reluctor/crank or it will effect the balance slightly. I did mine a little differently here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...l-24x-how.html The post used to have pics, but they seem to have disappeared. |
Here's an article that shows it being done with the tool. May not use the tool but it's a good reference. http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...your-ls-crank/ I'm trying to setup a LY6 build but am kind of on the fence about trying this myself. |
Originally Posted by cam
(Post 20012728)
Reluctor swaps are pretty common place. Plenty of the OG super fast guys all did this because of lack of 58x aftermarket tuning support in the early days and I have never heard a single negative about it aside from most recommending a few tacks to keep the 24x in place. Most prefer the 24x billet reluctor which is available in many aftermarket stores now. I know this much; If I had a 24x car I would swap reluctors all day long before I converted the harness and ECM to 58x. If I was swapping into a non LS car I still prefer the OG cable drive 24x systems for ease of fitment and greater custom tunability with regards to drivetrain components and whatnot. I would only suggest swapping a 58x if it was a matched engine/trans/E38+OS all at once. Mix and matching engines and transmissions with e38 can bus systems is a royal pita |
Originally Posted by ly6
(Post 20013400)
I just reaceved my OEM 24x relucteur, (it was aready order) I understand why they chose the buillet one, even the center part is not relucteur is in 2 parts and they are not touching so it do not make sence to press it in place. I will difinitly try to heat it to let it drop directly in place. The relucteur is about 0.008 to 0.009 smaller that the crank. I heat the relucteur at 450f in a oven, the relucteur was only at 250f after 30min and it grow about 0.010. I will try to heat it more to have more room to play. Do you now what temp people are bring it to safely? |
Its done and it work great. |
Originally Posted by ly6
(Post 20013903)
Its done and it work great. |
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