Over-square build with space constraints
Hi Steven,
You can hit your goals with an LS3/L99/truck 6.2 with some basic hot rodding. The engine has a nice 4.065 bore and 3.62 stroke - it's over square, like all of the factory LS engines.
Basics, good ported LS3 intake with radius rods exported Warr 92 mm tb, custom cam from one of the guru's of cams, greater of valve springs retainers & hardware, Johnson 2110 lifters, port the LS3/821/823 heads for a few more hp (Reher-Morrison or Land Speed Cylinder Heads, get a porter that excels at road racing not a generic set of cheapo CNC'd heads etc)
Suggest discussing your cam in detail, with Reher-Morrison Darin Morgan or Land Speed's Bret Land. Often experienced road racers like a milder cam grind that brings in the power smoothly unlike a drag cam that's more on/off in thrower band. Also while way out of fashion on here, smaller splits and even single pattern cams can still have a place in road racing depending on driver preferences. Sometimes the best torque curve for coming off the corners is a single pattern or smaller than normal split.
Fixed it for you
I definitely care about getting 300,000 + miles out of certain engines and have done it too because it's a different sort of fun
You can hit your goals with an LS3/L99/truck 6.2 with some basic hot rodding. The engine has a nice 4.065 bore and 3.62 stroke - it's over square, like all of the factory LS engines.
Basics, good ported LS3 intake with radius rods exported Warr 92 mm tb, custom cam from one of the guru's of cams, greater of valve springs retainers & hardware, Johnson 2110 lifters, port the LS3/821/823 heads for a few more hp (Reher-Morrison or Land Speed Cylinder Heads, get a porter that excels at road racing not a generic set of cheapo CNC'd heads etc)
Suggest discussing your cam in detail, with Reher-Morrison Darin Morgan or Land Speed's Bret Land. Often experienced road racers like a milder cam grind that brings in the power smoothly unlike a drag cam that's more on/off in thrower band. Also while way out of fashion on here, smaller splits and even single pattern cams can still have a place in road racing depending on driver preferences. Sometimes the best torque curve for coming off the corners is a single pattern or smaller than normal split.
I definitely care about getting 300,000 + miles out of certain engines and have done it too because it's a different sort of fun
Last edited by 99 Black Bird T/A; Jul 31, 2019 at 08:20 PM.
I think he just meant the 100k vs. 300k as an example, saying those few more rpm s decrease longevity overall. And definately a measurable amount. Im not sure honestly, but i always wonderd why buying a car with 60k miles is considered decent, but buying a gsxr1000 with 60k miles is just dumb. Maybe im over looking something, but on a street bike like that, they defly spend alot of time up in the higher rpms
Right! If an engine lasts a season I'm happy, two seasons totally stoked!, 3 years damn thing owes me nothing! In all reality I don't even want a car I've abused for 300k miles poor thing would be so clapped out.
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 90
Likes: 39
I have many many 4.8 cranks I could sell you because no one wants them and yet we almost only do road race engines and half are 4.250 stroke and still turn the rpm this guy wants to!
I would at the minimum stay 3.622 stroke so you don't totally kill any power you might make with that tiny crank for which there are precious few parts or heads small enough to make that work.
Then learn to drive as in you have a throttle foot to meter out the power in each gear. You can also short shift or run a lil higher gear as well which will save wear and tear on your valvetrain.
An LS7 with a 4.8 is a horrible and slow turd any way you set it up compared to one with a real crank in it at 4.000 or more like 4.125 and 4.250. Most LS7 heads are so big they hardly work even with these strokes! A 3.250 would just be terrible.
I would at the minimum stay 3.622 stroke so you don't totally kill any power you might make with that tiny crank for which there are precious few parts or heads small enough to make that work.
Then learn to drive as in you have a throttle foot to meter out the power in each gear. You can also short shift or run a lil higher gear as well which will save wear and tear on your valvetrain.
An LS7 with a 4.8 is a horrible and slow turd any way you set it up compared to one with a real crank in it at 4.000 or more like 4.125 and 4.250. Most LS7 heads are so big they hardly work even with these strokes! A 3.250 would just be terrible.
ls7 427cid, 4.8 292cid - the 4.8 is 46% smaller and would fit much better in a Miata. Plus you dont need all that torque.
But for cereal, who mentioned 3.08's? How about 2.73's and a powerglide? You'd never have to shift after starting on a road course.
Stay dropping knowledge.
But for cereal, who mentioned 3.08's? How about 2.73's and a powerglide? You'd never have to shift after starting on a road course.
Stay dropping knowledge.
Banned
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 1,747
Likes: 100
Eric spoke truth with controlling foot pressure to the throttle. Yet if wet ...3.73 will want to spin no matter ... 3.42 would be a start on down to a 3.08. It isn't a drag car and relitively lite so powers not the problem. The biggest tire that can be used is. Your pick for transmission.
BTW 300k was a figure of speech.
Eric has a stroker build that's street/ strip with Many,Many miles. Hydraulic roller..
BTW 300k was a figure of speech.
Eric has a stroker build that's street/ strip with Many,Many miles. Hydraulic roller..
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