Assembling bottom end
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Assembling bottom end Hows it going guys, Looking for any helpful tips or tricks when it comes to the rotating assembly. Ill be building my very first motor, 5.3 GEN IV. I am keeping it stock for the most part, minus bolt ons and TSP cam kit. I pretty much feel like I have everything I need, I have been watching and reading a lot of material. I have purchased plastigage and feeler gauge measuring tool to check clearances. Ive read to use lint free cloths and maybe WD40 to clean the block and also make sure to clean inside all the little holes. Any helpful tips or things I should know?? I would really appreciate it. Thank you
10 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,317
Likes: 20
From: Hurley, VA
Keep everything as absolutely clean as possible. I always stamp rods on the cap and rod on the same side makes going back together a lot smoother and if your like me get side tracked and have 2 rod caps off at the same time. Plastigage is ok for the most part just not 100 percent accurate mics are the best practice. I use a dial indicator rather than feeler gauges for the thrust. One issue Ive had is the generic piston ring compressor are all either junk or Im an idiot. After rolling a couple oil rings with them I started doing them all by hand very carefully with blunt screw drivers. Takes longer but you know nothing is damaged when it goes in. Cam bearings require a special tool if you only plan on doing this motor Id let the machine shop handle it just make sure the cam will go in the block before you put the crank in. Found that out the hard way which is why I do them myself now. And have the bores and pistons micd to check piston to wall clearance.
Tip of the day.........."Cleanliness is next to godliness"
I prefer Marvels Mystery oil in a spray bottle over WD40 for lubrication and it smells better to me for some reason. Using the proper tools is paramount when checking for clearances but once your ready to put it all together just use a quality lube and get the parts oily during assembly..
I prefer Marvels Mystery oil in a spray bottle over WD40 for lubrication and it smells better to me for some reason. Using the proper tools is paramount when checking for clearances but once your ready to put it all together just use a quality lube and get the parts oily during assembly..
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Keep everything as absolutely clean as possible. I always stamp rods on the cap and rod on the same side makes going back together a lot smoother and if your like me get side tracked and have 2 rod caps off at the same time. Plastigage is ok for the most part just not 100 percent accurate mics are the best practice. I use a dial indicator rather than feeler gauges for the thrust. One issue Ive had is the generic piston ring compressor are all either junk or Im an idiot. After rolling a couple oil rings with them I started doing them all by hand very carefully with blunt screw drivers. Takes longer but you know nothing is damaged when it goes in. Cam bearings require a special tool if you only plan on doing this motor Id let the machine shop handle it just make sure the cam will go in the block before you put the crank in. Found that out the hard way which is why I do them myself now. And have the bores and pistons micd to check piston to wall clearance.
okay, the machine shop installed the cam bearings. So install the cam first? Okay just keep everything clean. Okay sounds good thanks for the help.
Originally Posted by VandykeT/A
Just put the cam in temporary to make sure the bearings arent rolled from driving them in. If the cam slides in and turns free you can pull it back out.
I think it's way easier to install the cam before the crank. With the engine upside down you can grab the inside end to guide it through each journal.
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 154
Likes: 12
I use acetone to clean parts with and regular 10w30 motor oil on the bearings and rings for the assembly. My best advice is to invest in the right tool for the job. Sell it off later if you don't see yourself ever using it again.
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10 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,317
Likes: 20
From: Hurley, VA
Its about as wide as it is long really. I just dont want to cover it in oil with intentions of it going in to find out it wont go so I do a dry run to make sure the ends of the bearings arent rolled. Then pull it out cover in oil and put it back.
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On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 178
Likes: 8
Is good to use Lucas 100% petroleum oil stabilizer mixed 50% with 30 weight oil for bearing assembly or use assembly lube cause just oil will drip off to keep engine from starting dry.
The outside main caps bolts need to have sealant on the bolts head or everyone of them will leak oil.
when is time to bolt on the timing chain cover pay attention to the driver side gasket as is possible to flip sides and still bolt on but there will be an opening to leak like crazy. Put a dap or sealant in the front cover gasket to where it meets the oil pan gasket to keep from leaking.
If the block has the holes for it use timing chain damper as this keep it quiet and chain from stretching, damper cant be use with double row timing chains.
Is best to use factory lower chain sprocket as some multi key sprockets come off timing even when use straight up.
Blow all head bolt holes clean from oil and coolant otherwise the bolts can crack the block as fluids wont compress.
I hope this helps, David.
The outside main caps bolts need to have sealant on the bolts head or everyone of them will leak oil.
when is time to bolt on the timing chain cover pay attention to the driver side gasket as is possible to flip sides and still bolt on but there will be an opening to leak like crazy. Put a dap or sealant in the front cover gasket to where it meets the oil pan gasket to keep from leaking.
If the block has the holes for it use timing chain damper as this keep it quiet and chain from stretching, damper cant be use with double row timing chains.
Is best to use factory lower chain sprocket as some multi key sprockets come off timing even when use straight up.
Blow all head bolt holes clean from oil and coolant otherwise the bolts can crack the block as fluids wont compress.
I hope this helps, David.