Building a 800-900 whp LSX
Only a couple of people have come onto this thread being childish you being one of them, it's as if you can't read your own tone when typing those messages. You've come off as a insinuating and speculative person throughout all of your messages to me, I have taken all of the good information given to me on this thread with Thank you's. That information is not at all helpful to for you in assisting me, if you have any machine shops you would like for me to take a look at you're welcome to send me a few. But instead you're clenching onto the ex coworker whom I was most likely going to use instead, which doesn't matter.
I do not care what you think of me I know what type of person would call another names on the internet and get defensive over my questions. Good luck with your build and since I seem to have offended you I will no longer post in this thread or any other that you may post in the future. Enjoy the rest of your evening sir.
Standard deck LSX bored to 4.125 and machined for 1/2" studs then outfitted with ARP main and head studs, a 4.00" Callies Dragonslayer crankshaft, Callies I-Beam connecting rods, Clevite H-Series R&M bearings with either Wiseco or Diamond pistons with .200 wall heavy duty pins and you'll have a stout bottom end that could withstand upwards of 2,500 hp. Since you're not looking for those kind of numbers the hardware you've mentioned can handle your power goals no problem just make sure you find a really good machine shop that has all the equipment to properly machine the block. LME did mine years ago for around 1K and it was money well spent.
Standard deck LSX bored to 4.125 and machined for 1/2" studs then outfitted with ARP main and head studs, a 4.00" Callies Dragonslayer crankshaft, Callies I-Beam connecting rods, Clevite H-Series R&M bearings with either Wiseco or Diamond pistons with .200 wall heavy duty pins and you'll have a stout bottom end that could withstand upwards of 2,500 hp. Since you're not looking for those kind of numbers the hardware you've mentioned can handle your power goals no problem just make sure you find a really good machine shop that has all the equipment to properly machine the block. LME did mine years ago for around 1K and it was money well spent.
I'll make sure I take a look at LME, still need to figure out heads if I'm not using stocks or I could contact and see what LME thinks about using stock heads with head work done. You stated…
‘I'm not keeping secrets, I do not have unlimited funds, just enough to consider spending tens of thousands on random projects whenever i ******* feel like it. My workplace can source any part anywhere in the world for whatever they need. Not secret. I don't build LS engines and I have 0 experience with them.”
Didn’t mean to strike a nerve there…you weren’t giving out much info with your short replies. My first step if I were you, would be to make sure you can get your hands on the small parts that are unique to that early block and I’m 99% sure they are unavailable. It would be a huge waste to pay for machine work, only to find out that you can’t get the parts. Second step would be to make sure your machinist knows that the LSX blocks require much more machine work than a standard GM block. Decks are purposely about .020 too high in case one wants custom crown pistons. Bores can have significant core shift and must be sonic checked to go out to 4.125 etc. Lots of quirkiness about the LSX blocks, but when they are right, you’ll have a very strong foundation. You’d be Way, Way ahead on $$$, if you’d simply find an iron gen4 6.0 liter pullout engine and boost it. I see guys making way more than 800-900 wheel going this route, but it’s your call there. I’m only trying to help, being as how you have 0 experience with them.
‘I'm not keeping secrets, I do not have unlimited funds, just enough to consider spending tens of thousands on random projects whenever i ******* feel like it. My workplace can source any part anywhere in the world for whatever they need. Not secret. I don't build LS engines and I have 0 experience with them.”
Didn’t mean to strike a nerve there…you weren’t giving out much info with your short replies. My first step if I were you, would be to make sure you can get your hands on the small parts that are unique to that early block and I’m 99% sure they are unavailable. It would be a huge waste to pay for machine work, only to find out that you can’t get the parts. Second step would be to make sure your machinist knows that the LSX blocks require much more machine work than a standard GM block. Decks are purposely about .020 too high in case one wants custom crown pistons. Bores can have significant core shift and must be sonic checked to go out to 4.125 etc. Lots of quirkiness about the LSX blocks, but when they are right, you’ll have a very strong foundation. You’d be Way, Way ahead on $$$, if you’d simply find an iron gen4 6.0 liter pullout engine and boost it. I see guys making way more than 800-900 wheel going this route, but it’s your call there. I’m only trying to help, being as how you have 0 experience with them.
You stated…
‘I'm not keeping secrets, I do not have unlimited funds, just enough to consider spending tens of thousands on random projects whenever i ******* feel like it. My workplace can source any part anywhere in the world for whatever they need. Not secret. I don't build LS engines and I have 0 experience with them.”
Didn’t mean to strike a nerve there…you weren’t giving out much info with your short replies. My first step if I were you, would be to make sure you can get your hands on the small parts that are unique to that early block and I’m 99% sure they are unavailable. It would be a huge waste to pay for machine work, only to find out that you can’t get the parts. Second step would be to make sure your machinist knows that the LSX blocks require much more machine work than a standard GM block. Decks are purposely about .020 too high in case one wants custom crown pistons. Bores can have significant core shift and must be sonic checked to go out to 4.125 etc. Lots of quirkiness about the LSX blocks, but when they are right, you’ll have a very strong foundation. You’d be Way, Way ahead on $$$, if you’d simply find an iron gen4 6.0 liter pullout engine and boost it. I see guys making way more than 800-900 wheel going this route, but it’s your call there. I’m only trying to help, being as how you have 0 experience with them.
‘I'm not keeping secrets, I do not have unlimited funds, just enough to consider spending tens of thousands on random projects whenever i ******* feel like it. My workplace can source any part anywhere in the world for whatever they need. Not secret. I don't build LS engines and I have 0 experience with them.”
Didn’t mean to strike a nerve there…you weren’t giving out much info with your short replies. My first step if I were you, would be to make sure you can get your hands on the small parts that are unique to that early block and I’m 99% sure they are unavailable. It would be a huge waste to pay for machine work, only to find out that you can’t get the parts. Second step would be to make sure your machinist knows that the LSX blocks require much more machine work than a standard GM block. Decks are purposely about .020 too high in case one wants custom crown pistons. Bores can have significant core shift and must be sonic checked to go out to 4.125 etc. Lots of quirkiness about the LSX blocks, but when they are right, you’ll have a very strong foundation. You’d be Way, Way ahead on $$$, if you’d simply find an iron gen4 6.0 liter pullout engine and boost it. I see guys making way more than 800-900 wheel going this route, but it’s your call there. I’m only trying to help, being as how you have 0 experience with them.
Standard deck LSX bored to 4.125 and machined for 1/2" studs then outfitted with ARP main and head studs, a 4.00" Callies Dragonslayer crankshaft, Callies I-Beam connecting rods, Clevite H-Series R&M bearings with either Wiseco or Diamond pistons with .200 wall heavy duty pins and you'll have a stout bottom end that could withstand upwards of 2,500 hp. Since you're not looking for those kind of numbers the hardware you've mentioned can handle your power goals no problem just make sure you find a really good machine shop that has all the equipment to properly machine the block. LME did mine years ago for around 1K and it was money well spent.
Apologies, a user was attempting to discredit me and it was my choice to attempt to correct him and in the end he just pissed me off. My fault. Do you know which parts are generally hard to find off the bat? Because the engines we get from GM are to my knowledge bone stock apon arrival, not sure what the process is after that in getting the engine ready for a testing cell (because there are nearly 30-40 sensors we add onto the engine to get reads we normally wouldn't be able to get) and I know they remove plenty of the stock parts and trash them. I have a plethora of media of our testing cells and engines if any of those might be of help? I agree that would be a waste. I contacted LME for more information on the work they provide and the route they would take me in with their expertise, and if you have any other suggestions for machine shops I'd be more than happy to take a look at them. I wasn't aware of the decks being off for aftermarket hindsight thats interesting. Thanks for the suggestions, I've been informed I'd be better off switching blocks multiple times I just wish to use the block I currently have.
Haha Teslas are cool imo from a technology standpoint they're not fun to drive at least for me. LS3 heads even over brodix? I heard a lot of good things about brodix heads. If I were to go with LS3 heads I'd be getting all of the headwork done so do you have any recommendations on where I could have that done?
I thought I edited the post to say, LS3 if you don't want to spend big money on heads. Brodix makes some good stuff. I think the best advice I could give is if you want to spend good money and get great results, give Tony Mamo a call on what heads/intake he'd recommend.
As I stated earlier, cam retainer plate, lifter trays, and block plugs. Also the font and rear covers I think are unique to the block you have. If I were you, I’d start with Scoggin Dickey in Lubbock Texas for the odd stuff. Call parts and tell them which block number you have, and go from there. They are one of the largest dealers for LSX stuff, and would be a big help for helping you locate the LSX “small parts” stuff.
For the 800-900 ho range you don't need a monster budget to be reliable unless you just don't care about money. I'm a firm believer in doing it once and doing it right because 9 times out of 10 it is cheaper in the long run and piece of mind is worth a mint but also won't spend $7k on a set of heads when $3k set will meet the desired power goals and still be reliable. They just won't be as fancy I guess, but again, 800-900 hp is a fairy easy target to hit.
I would also make sure and go with a 9" or a S60. 12 bolt may hold and you're going automatic so it might be just fine.
I would also make sure and go with a 9" or a S60. 12 bolt may hold and you're going automatic so it might be just fine.
you've got Preston, Tony Da Man, Darin...
GPI also does some fast stuff really fast LT or LS.
You're not asking for much....
Quick common sense boost Check mate question 👍
14.xxx pounds of boost = x2 NA hp.
What's the NA requirements to achieve 🤔 900 fwhp @ 14.xxx lbs of Boooooost.
Sounds like you want a 8lbs of boost build at 427 cubes...
GPI also does some fast stuff really fast LT or LS.
You're not asking for much....
Quick common sense boost Check mate question 👍
14.xxx pounds of boost = x2 NA hp.
What's the NA requirements to achieve 🤔 900 fwhp @ 14.xxx lbs of Boooooost.
Sounds like you want a 8lbs of boost build at 427 cubes...
Last edited by Corona; Jun 3, 2022 at 09:56 AM.
As I stated earlier, cam retainer plate, lifter trays, and block plugs. Also the font and rear covers I think are unique to the block you have. If I were you, I’d start with Scoggin Dickey in Lubbock Texas for the odd stuff. Call parts and tell them which block number you have, and go from there. They are one of the largest dealers for LSX stuff, and would be a big help for helping you locate the LSX “small parts” stuff.
Question: Are the cylinder heads that you have LSX cylinder heads which are 6 bolt or do you have standard LS 4 bolt cylinder heads? If standard then I'd definetly look for aftermarket 6 bolt heads and LME has a pretty good deal on his CNC ported Brodix BR7's.
For the 800-900 ho range you don't need a monster budget to be reliable unless you just don't care about money. I'm a firm believer in doing it once and doing it right because 9 times out of 10 it is cheaper in the long run and piece of mind is worth a mint but also won't spend $7k on a set of heads when $3k set will meet the desired power goals and still be reliable. They just won't be as fancy I guess, but again, 800-900 hp is a fairy easy target to hit.
I would also make sure and go with a 9" or a S60. 12 bolt may hold and you're going automatic so it might be just fine.
I would also make sure and go with a 9" or a S60. 12 bolt may hold and you're going automatic so it might be just fine.
you've got Preston, Tony Da Man, Darin...
GPI also does some fast stuff really fast LT or LS.
You're not asking for much....
Quick common sense boost Check mate question 👍
14.xxx pounds of boost = x2 NA hp.
What's the NA requirements to achieve 🤔 900 fwhp @ 14.xxx lbs of Boooooost.
Sounds like you want a 8lbs of boost build at 427 cubes...
GPI also does some fast stuff really fast LT or LS.
You're not asking for much....
Quick common sense boost Check mate question 👍
14.xxx pounds of boost = x2 NA hp.
What's the NA requirements to achieve 🤔 900 fwhp @ 14.xxx lbs of Boooooost.
Sounds like you want a 8lbs of boost build at 427 cubes...
Scott is correct and I provided you with a link to Scoggin Dickey in a previous post. They will have the cam retainer plate, seals and the other itmes you may be needing. The only change that I'm aware of was the change to the oil galley which was why they changed the cam retainer plate and the lifter trays are no big deal as link bars are a better option IMO. As for your question regarding the compression I'd shoot for 9:1-9.5:1 for a boosted application.
Question: Are the cylinder heads that you have LSX cylinder heads which are 6 bolt or do you have standard LS 4 bolt cylinder heads? If standard then I'd definetly look for aftermarket 6 bolt heads and LME has a pretty good deal on his CNC ported Brodix BR7's.
Question: Are the cylinder heads that you have LSX cylinder heads which are 6 bolt or do you have standard LS 4 bolt cylinder heads? If standard then I'd definetly look for aftermarket 6 bolt heads and LME has a pretty good deal on his CNC ported Brodix BR7's.









