Machine shops ?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Batesville, Mississippi
Machine shops ? My daily drive LY5 250,000 miles 2008 GMC Sierra , oil change every 3/5000 miles. 1st oil change I went with Synthetic oil and later to High mileage oil.
AFM ----ECU was EDITED to 8 Cyl, at 120,000 miles when I started having fouled plugs, no problems after that.
My project will be a 1938 Chevy truck with this engine and I want to Engine and Trans. on a budget.
Where to send your engine for rebuild local or not?
Back in the 70's you could take a engine, block, heads to any local auto parts for rebuild.
I believe people had more pride in there work back in those days, maybe not?
I was a Tool and Die maker and Machinist for 30 years so I have trust issues.
Is it possible that my engine would still have cross hatch marks?
Help me out on what to do?
Thanks Awesome Forum.
AFM ----ECU was EDITED to 8 Cyl, at 120,000 miles when I started having fouled plugs, no problems after that.
My project will be a 1938 Chevy truck with this engine and I want to Engine and Trans. on a budget.
Where to send your engine for rebuild local or not?
Back in the 70's you could take a engine, block, heads to any local auto parts for rebuild.
I believe people had more pride in there work back in those days, maybe not?
I was a Tool and Die maker and Machinist for 30 years so I have trust issues.
Is it possible that my engine would still have cross hatch marks?
Help me out on what to do?
Thanks Awesome Forum.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 532
Likes: 630
Sometimes going cheap means paying twice. At 250K I would think you could make it run but your bore checker will probably tell a tale.
A machine shop taking a block and machining everything properly and installing new cam bearings will probably set you back $1000-$1200. If you have a rotating assembly the balance will probably be another $200. Then parts, heads, and all of the rest. That will at least be a fully refreshed engine.
Engines are not going to get cheaper. A 5.3 junkyard long block can be found online for $500-$1000 depending on condition and what comes with it. Assembled long blocks from reputable sources run 5000+. You're going to have to make decisions on how nice you want the engine to be.
A machine shop taking a block and machining everything properly and installing new cam bearings will probably set you back $1000-$1200. If you have a rotating assembly the balance will probably be another $200. Then parts, heads, and all of the rest. That will at least be a fully refreshed engine.
Engines are not going to get cheaper. A 5.3 junkyard long block can be found online for $500-$1000 depending on condition and what comes with it. Assembled long blocks from reputable sources run 5000+. You're going to have to make decisions on how nice you want the engine to be.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Batesville, Mississippi
Cheap is I have a engine and Trans.
I have a 1938 Chevy Truck with no bed and will leave it rusty.
I will spend the money on 4 bar rear suspension and a IFS front suspension making as many parts as possible, boxing in the frame also.
I would do the things on this link and stop after the cam, and before the turbocharger.
420 HP ish---Maybe some Nitrous
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018/...e-performance/
Attachment 711770
Attachment 711771
I like the look of the 4 link frame rails coming up and over.
I have a 1938 Chevy Truck with no bed and will leave it rusty.
I will spend the money on 4 bar rear suspension and a IFS front suspension making as many parts as possible, boxing in the frame also.
I would do the things on this link and stop after the cam, and before the turbocharger.
420 HP ish---Maybe some Nitrous
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018/...e-performance/
Attachment 711770
Attachment 711771
I like the look of the 4 link frame rails coming up and over.
