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Mainly just want to get this off my chest. I have an LS3 swapped TransAm with about 750 miles on the engine at this point. Was out on a country road having some WOT fun and did the dreaded 3-2 shift. Not sure what it revved to, I shifted at 6K so maybe it hit 8K+? Felt terrible, I've put so much time and money into this swap. What's worse is I did the EXACT same thing back in 2009 when I swapped in a built 383ci LT1.
The good news is oil pressure is normal. No new noises, drives perfectly fine. I drove it 15 miles home with no issues. Hoping I dodged a bullet. I did a search for what to check after something like this. A lot of the results were pretty old but they said the weak link in these stock LS3's are the pushrods. Is that still true? If a pushrod weren't perfectly straight I probably wouldn't notice right? Just be down on power?
I had a friend that did an over rev into 1st gear at a drag strip, 9K rpm and actually did a 360 and never came to a stop and just kept hauling *** down the strip. Track workers were pissed at him but it was the coolest thing they'd seen in a long time. Engine routinely ran to 8K rpm and was fine but a while later the clutch exploded on a road course. In retrospect, he suspects the straps were weakened by the accidental upshift at drag strip. Clutch straps are strong in accel, weak in decel. He switched to a clutch with stands after that.
Pushrods are definitely weak link. I've missed the 3-4 and went into 2nd but I clutch kicked fast enough that the log only showed 6600rpms. Check those pushrods.
I've done the same thing, and I was taught a shifting method that has kept me from ever doing a 3-2 shift again: When you go to make your 3-4 shift, change the placement of your hand on the shift lever so your palm is against the left side of the shift **** ( pinky at the top, index finger at the bottom ). It feels awkward at first, but the reason to do this is that it changes the angle of your elbow so that it's near impossible to pull the shift lever towards you ( and into the 2nd gear gate ). Just try it sitting where you're at now, you'll see your elbow actually travels away from you, which in a quick shift execution will end up being almost straight backwards.
I've done the same thing, and I was taught a shifting method that has kept me from ever doing a 3-2 shift again
Just get a shifter with better gating and centers properly.
And slow down to your capability. Not everybody is a fast draw and you're going to make mistakes if you try too hard.
Inspected the pushrods, all still straight. No broken springs, no compressed springs, no broken rockers. I did see some tiny specs on the inside of the valve covers that looked and squished like anti seize. Maybe leftover assembly material? I want to check for bent valves tomorrow. Would it be better to do compression tests or leak down tests?
Just get a shifter with better gating and centers properly.
And slow down to your capability. Not everybody is a fast draw and you're going to make mistakes if you try too hard.
I own 4 vehicles and 3 are manuals. I've been driving sticks for 30 years, pretty sure I know how to do it well and do it quickly. Ergonomically, the 3-4 shift is an awkward movement. You have to make a straight backward pull when your position, skeletal structure, and musculature cause the pull to be biased toward you. Having the heaviest weighted centering springs in your shifter is helpful but not foolproof ( if it were, how could you ever shift into 2nd?). I have good shifters in both my SS and my Formula, no need for one in my daily. I'd much rather make a slight alteration to my technique and never miss a gear, which costs me nothing and isnt any more difficult to do than a normal shift.
I own 4 vehicles and 3 are manuals. I've been driving sticks for 30 years, pretty sure I know how to do it well and do it quickly. Ergonomically, the 3-4 shift is an awkward movement. You have to make a straight backward pull when your position, skeletal structure, and musculature cause the pull to be biased toward you. Having the heaviest weighted centering springs in your shifter is helpful but not foolproof ( if it were, how could you ever shift into 2nd?). I have good shifters in both my SS and my Formula, no need for one in my daily. I'd much rather make a slight alteration to my technique and never miss a gear, which costs me nothing and isnt any more difficult to do than a normal shift.
I've been driving a stick longer than you and time does not make you or me a pro. You're upside down hand technique is bizarre. 3-4 shift is the easiest freaking shift there is, it literally passes through neutral center. If you hit 2nd by accident you either need better equipment or you're just trying too hard and losing fine motor control.
I guess we can agree to disagree on this one. Regardless of whether the 3-4 shift is the easiest to make, my observation of the ergonomics is valid, and the inadvertent movement from 3 into 2 is common enough that I figured I'd give the OP an option on how to avoid it. If it doesn't work for him, cool. If it does, even better. Sliding one's hand from the top of the shift **** to the left side for added insurance isn't bizarre, it's personal preference. Some people drive automatics too. Is that bizarre? C'mon. Sorry for thread jacking, OP. It looks like you dodged a bullet, and I wouldn't be concerned about that little bit of goop on your valve cover. It probably is assembly lube, like you said. Just keep an eye on your oil throughout the first few thousand miles.
I can't comment on the manual shifting styles because I'm an auto guy. I think one of the reasons the late model engines survive over revving is because of the built in rev limiter in the ECM. Depending on the rpm limit set in the ECM even though you might see a high number on the tach the ECM is shutting off the injectors and coils. So less load on the engine?
Pushrods are definitely weak link. I've missed the 3-4 and went into 2nd but I clutch kicked fast enough that the log only showed 6600rpms. Check those pushrods.
For sure!! Also, if there's any clicking now that wasn't there before, might've eaten a lifter. Happened to me on an overrev.
Last edited by grinder11; Mar 20, 2023 at 05:28 PM.
I can't comment on the manual shifting styles because I'm an auto guy. I think one of the reasons the late model engines survive over revving is because of the built in rev limiter in the ECM. Depending on the rpm limit set in the ECM even though you might see a high number on the tach the ECM is shutting off the injectors and coils. So less load on the engine?
It is my understanding that the rev limiter cuts fuel ONLY, nothing to do with ignition. From 3rd to 2nd is a MECHANICAL overrev, which the factory rev limiter is left helpless to override anything. I missed a gear, and the engine still overrevved, because it happens so fast cutting fuel will still allow an overrev to a certain degree. An ignition rev limiter is superior in my .02. Sorry for hijack, but that's how I lunched a lifter.
I can't comment on the manual shifting styles because I'm an auto guy. I think one of the reasons the late model engines survive over revving is because of the built in rev limiter in the ECM. Depending on the rpm limit set in the ECM even though you might see a high number on the tach the ECM is shutting off the injectors and coils. So less load on the engine?
No electronic control can do anything about a mechanical overrev.
In that situation, the wheels are what's turning the engine, not the burning fuel. You can mechanically overrev an engine with no power or fuel: get up to about 70 mph, turn the key off, then put the shifter in first gear and let off the clutch and see what happens...
I own 4 vehicles and 3 are manuals. I've been driving sticks for 30 years, pretty sure I know how to do it well and do it quickly.Ergonomically, the 3-4 shift is an awkward movement. You have to make a straight backward pull when your position, skeletal structure, and musculature cause the pull to be biased toward you. Having the heaviest weighted centering springs in your shifter is helpful but not foolproof ( if it were, how could you ever shift into 2nd?). I have good shifters in both my SS and my Formula, no need for one in my daily. I'd much rather make a slight alteration to my technique and never miss a gear, which costs me nothing and isnt any more difficult to do than a normal shift.
That's the most interesting post I've read on this forum in about a year.
1) Have driven manuals for 42 years, have owned 4, still own 2 and know I'm not close to quick shift expert. Time driving and owning a lot of stick cars does not necessarily make one an expert or even proficient.
2) 3 to 4 awkward with T56 six speed?
Wow! Never heard that one before! 😳
I want some of what you're smoking 🚬
3) Varying your technique and not being consistent in how you shift teaches muscle memory to be inconsistent. It helps lay ground work for missing shifts in a stressful situation like racing. Both of my six speed cars have the same type of Pro 5.0 shifter for consistency. Power shifting at high rpm the last thing to worry about is which technique to use for which shifter in my experience.
4) The base stock 4th Gen fbody shifter is garbage. That POS shifter will likely teach you also sorts of habits like varied techniques because it's a terrible shifter.
5) Having had a car stolen and mechanically over rev'd, I know for a fact cleaning up the mess left from that can be very unpleasant and expensive. My shifter's got pull hard to the center with extra spring pressure for peace of mind.
That's my opinion YMMV, wish you the best.
May all of your shifts be lightning 🌩 fast and crisp.
I spent the evening leak down testing the engine. All cylinders are 90/90 psi, whew! Looks like the engine is unscathed thank goodness. Some cylinders I could hear the faintest noise in the intake but the gauge still read 90 psi.
It seems like the clutch may have taken the worst of it. I heard a new noise when rotating the engine by hand. I have a dot of paint on my crank bolt for cylinder 1 TDC and when that dot is at 2 o' clock, I can hear what sounds like a piece of metal tapping other metal. It happens again in 180 degrees at 8 o' clock. My suspicion is that the noise is coming from a broken clutch disk spring. When the broken piece is at 12 o' clock it falls down, then when it's at 6 o' clock, it falls down again the other direction. The clutch still works fine so I'm just gonna send it until it REALLY needs a new clutch.
Here's a video of the noise. I'm turning the engine with one hand and recording with the other. You can hear the noise right after the video starts, then you hear me fiddle with my wrench, then you hear the noise again.
99 Black Bird T/A: That's the most interesting post I've read on this forum in about a year.
1) Have driven manuals for 42 years, have owned 4, still own 2 and know I'm not close to quick shift expert. Time driving and owning a lot of stick cars does not necessarily make one an expert or even proficient.
Never said I was an expert. Where'd that come from?
2) 3 to 4 awkward with T56 six speed?
Wow! Never heard that one before! 😳
I want some of what you're smoking 🚬
It's about ergonomics. There's a reason that 3-2 mis-shifts are so common. Just because YOU don't find them awkward with however you're built doesn't mean others won't. Are we all the same height with the same length arms and legs? It's pretty easy for someone to either shift into 2nd or hang up between gates when attempting to shift quickly because we aren't typically isolating the specific muscles used in our arm/shoulder when making the shift. Other muscles can come into play, tensing up in a certain way and causing one to pull the stick towards them slightly. My technique pretty much makes a 3-2 shift impossible, without having to resort to stiffening the centering springs so much that it makes other shifts more difficult. I seriously do not understand why either of you dudes are making a big deal about it.
3) Varying your technique and not being consistent in how you shift teaches muscle memory to be inconsistent. It helps lay ground work for missing shifts in a stressful situation like racing. Both of my six speed cars have the same type of Pro 5.0 shifter for consistency. Power shifting at high rpm the last thing to worry about is which technique to use for which shifter in my experience.
I don't vary my technique. I also don't miss the 3-4 shift. It works for me, so what's the problem?
4) The base stock 4th Gen fbody shifter is garbage. That POS shifter will likely teach you also sorts of habits like varied techniques because it's a terrible shifter.
My Formula has never had a stock shifter in it. It's got a Hurst billet plus with modified springs and a cut and welded Hurst stick. It has always worked quite well. I have a Barton shifter in my SS, which also works well but doesn't have the same feel as my Formula because it's remotely mounted.
5) Having had a car stolen and mechanically over rev'd, I know for a fact cleaning up the mess left from that can be very unpleasant and expensive. My shifter's got pull hard to the center with extra spring pressure for peace of mind.
That's my opinion YMMV, wish you the best.
May all of your shifts be lightning 🌩 fast and crisp.
The clutch still works fine so I'm just gonna send it until it REALLY needs a new clutch.
What I didn't say is the clutch went through the floor missing him somehow, and through the exhaust and everything else in the tunnel, and turned the engine block to scrap, and had to rebuild the trans.
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Embarrassing mechanical over rev, 3-2 money $hift 
Engine routinely ran to 8K rpm and was fine but a while later the clutch exploded on a road course. In retrospect, he suspects the straps were weakened by the accidental upshift at drag strip. Clutch straps are strong in accel, weak in decel. He switched to a clutch with stands after that. 
