Engine Block Options
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 59
Likes: 4
From: Azusa, California
Engine Block Options I have a 2005 C6 Corvette. Gen IV LS2 /24x Reluctor. 90,000 miles on the clock.
Just put an A&A Vortech Kit on the car, basic CARB friendly kit with 4.0" pulley, 6-7 Lbs of boost.
I think the LS2 isnt long for this world and would like to build a new engine that is built for boost.
Eventually I'd like to step up to a Vortech YSI.
I'd like to be a little different and build a Boosted 388. 4.125" Bore x 6.200" Rod x 3.622" Stroke.
I plan on keepin under 1000hp. This car is not for racing or any type of dedicated full effort track car.
Just a really fast street car that I can cruise on the weekends and get all of lifes frustrions out from stop light to stop light.
Ok, so that the plan. The question is do I risk purchasing a used Iron Block from a Truck? I was thinking LQ4/LQ9 6.0L block, but the amount people want for one and no guarntees that the blocks arent junck once you do a deeper dive has me thinking a fresh Iron block from GM performance? Fresh new blocks are pretty healthy in price as well. I can remember paying $2200 for a DART little M for a SBC back in the day and now OEM production blocks are that much. Just need some direction on the best bang for the buck.
Just put an A&A Vortech Kit on the car, basic CARB friendly kit with 4.0" pulley, 6-7 Lbs of boost.
I think the LS2 isnt long for this world and would like to build a new engine that is built for boost.
Eventually I'd like to step up to a Vortech YSI.
I'd like to be a little different and build a Boosted 388. 4.125" Bore x 6.200" Rod x 3.622" Stroke.
I plan on keepin under 1000hp. This car is not for racing or any type of dedicated full effort track car.
Just a really fast street car that I can cruise on the weekends and get all of lifes frustrions out from stop light to stop light.
Ok, so that the plan. The question is do I risk purchasing a used Iron Block from a Truck? I was thinking LQ4/LQ9 6.0L block, but the amount people want for one and no guarntees that the blocks arent junck once you do a deeper dive has me thinking a fresh Iron block from GM performance? Fresh new blocks are pretty healthy in price as well. I can remember paying $2200 for a DART little M for a SBC back in the day and now OEM production blocks are that much. Just need some direction on the best bang for the buck.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 532
Likes: 630
That LS2 block is one of the best if not THE best block the GM factory ever made. There is no need bolt an extra 110 pounds of iron to the front of your car.
Just keep running it. It will hold if you don't go crazy, overheat, or run it out of oil.
If you do rebuild and go with aftermarket equipment don't bother with the 3.622 stock stroke engine if you're buying an aftermarket crank because a 4" is the same price. There is no advantage to smaller cubic inches, the rod ratio means nothing, more cubes means more streetable.
Just keep running it. It will hold if you don't go crazy, overheat, or run it out of oil.
If you do rebuild and go with aftermarket equipment don't bother with the 3.622 stock stroke engine if you're buying an aftermarket crank because a 4" is the same price. There is no advantage to smaller cubic inches, the rod ratio means nothing, more cubes means more streetable.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 59
Likes: 4
From: Azusa, California
That LS2 block is one of the best if not THE best block the GM factory ever made. There is no need bolt an extra 110 pounds of iron to the front of your car.
Just keep running it. It will hold if you don't go crazy, overheat, or run it out of oil.
If you do rebuild and go with aftermarket equipment don't bother with the 3.622 stock stroke engine if you're buying an aftermarket crank because a 4" is the same price. There is no advantage to smaller cubic inches, the rod ratio means nothing, more cubes means more streetable.
Just keep running it. It will hold if you don't go crazy, overheat, or run it out of oil.
If you do rebuild and go with aftermarket equipment don't bother with the 3.622 stock stroke engine if you're buying an aftermarket crank because a 4" is the same price. There is no advantage to smaller cubic inches, the rod ratio means nothing, more cubes means more streetable.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 532
Likes: 630
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,623
Likes: 520
I built a 427 cube LS out of a LS2 block. Sent the block out to Race Engine Development in CA. They cut the old sleeves and installed Darton sleeves. I went with a Manley stroker kit. 4.125 bore/4" stroke. L92 heads. 225/230 cam. 42 lb injectors. Put it in a 67 Nova. Did just under 500 rwhp on the chassis dyno with a 91 octane tune. Per the tuner it was a piece of cake to tune. It was a hoot to drive. So much low end torque. Ran great on the street. Ran cool no matter what the outside temp was.
I have a 2005 C6 Corvette. Gen IV LS2 /24x Reluctor. 90,000 miles on the clock.
Just put an A&A Vortech Kit on the car, basic CARB friendly kit with 4.0" pulley, 6-7 Lbs of boost.
I think the LS2 isnt long for this world and would like to build a new engine that is built for boost.
Eventually I'd like to step up to a Vortech YSI.
I'd like to be a little different and build a Boosted 388. 4.125" Bore x 6.200" Rod x 3.622" Stroke.
I plan on keepin under 1000hp. This car is not for racing or any type of dedicated full effort track car.
Just a really fast street car that I can cruise on the weekends and get all of lifes frustrions out from stop light to stop light.
Ok, so that the plan. The question is do I risk purchasing a used Iron Block from a Truck? I was thinking LQ4/LQ9 6.0L block, but the amount people want for one and no guarntees that the blocks arent junck once you do a deeper dive has me thinking a fresh Iron block from GM performance? Fresh new blocks are pretty healthy in price as well. I can remember paying $2200 for a DART little M for a SBC back in the day and now OEM production blocks are that much. Just need some direction on the best bang for the buck.
Just put an A&A Vortech Kit on the car, basic CARB friendly kit with 4.0" pulley, 6-7 Lbs of boost.
I think the LS2 isnt long for this world and would like to build a new engine that is built for boost.
Eventually I'd like to step up to a Vortech YSI.
I'd like to be a little different and build a Boosted 388. 4.125" Bore x 6.200" Rod x 3.622" Stroke.
I plan on keepin under 1000hp. This car is not for racing or any type of dedicated full effort track car.
Just a really fast street car that I can cruise on the weekends and get all of lifes frustrions out from stop light to stop light.
Ok, so that the plan. The question is do I risk purchasing a used Iron Block from a Truck? I was thinking LQ4/LQ9 6.0L block, but the amount people want for one and no guarntees that the blocks arent junck once you do a deeper dive has me thinking a fresh Iron block from GM performance? Fresh new blocks are pretty healthy in price as well. I can remember paying $2200 for a DART little M for a SBC back in the day and now OEM production blocks are that much. Just need some direction on the best bang for the buck.
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Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 59
Likes: 4
From: Azusa, California
What makes you think the LS2 is on its way out at only 90,000 miles? There are LS2 engines out there that have gone 200,000+miles. The LS platform has proven very reliable. Some LS1s have cracked 500,000 miles, and there's a stock LS1 C5 at the Corvette Museum that's gone over 770,000 miles without a teardown. Treat the engine well, keep the oil changed, and there aren't too many engine families that have done any better.....
Good to know the LS2 block is a solid foundation.
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Verdad Gallardo I think Old Style Thinking. Back in the day a SBC that was creeping a 100K was time for a rebuild. Just was worried adding boost at that milage would be hard on parts and diminish its ability to be reliable. Planning for the innevitable
Good to know the LS2 block is a solid foundation.
Good to know the LS2 block is a solid foundation.
