When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Brainfart here. Thinking bout just doing dod delete with springs and ls7 lifters along with truck norris or even mad max cam. Since i dont have nothing but a long block, how bout a carbed setup with this intake, msd 6014 and a holley 670 avenger with that turbo 350 i have. Gets me on the road LS style. Will both these cams be acceptable with a carb
At this point i have ordered these parts or have them on the shelf for this build.
ebay 302-2 china pan
billet ebay barbell and oil filter bypass block off
rear main seal and cover gasket
front crank seal and gasket
both seal alignment tools
melling m295 pump
gen4 non dod cover with new oil pressure sensor
gen4 head bolt set
felpro head gaskets
gen4 cam sensor and new cam to harness pigtail
BTR truck norris cam with springs and valve seals
delphi ls7 lifters, trays and new 7.40 pushrods
arp cam 3 bolt set
gen4 delphi knock sensor
cloyes timing chain set with fixed chain tensioner
little billet oil galley adapter to weed sprayer for priming
heads have been sent to get cleaned, ground and .015 taken off. My goal is to get a complete longbock back together, painted and sealed up for now. Next parts on the list are big. Like lsxrt intake with 102tb, holley computer and wiring, speed engineering headers.
Holley had a memorial day sale this weekend and jegs took another 150.00 of a holley terminator x max for this build so i jumped on it. Need to find me some ev6 injectors and a lsxrt intake still but getting closer. Anyone got any suggestions on injectors? Thanks
Think you are missing the fun/magic of a JY LS motor. You don’t need to do anything really. Inspect it. If nothings wrong, put it back together completely stock! No replacing bearings, rings, machine work, etc. Its simply not needed. Esp if you aren’t trying to set the world on fire power wise. I’ve yet to see one that was bad. And I’ve probably have 12 of them now. Just get the thing in the truck and running.
Super common for the LC9 to munch a lifter. All of mine had that. Id suggest new lifters and trays (summit brand is fine). I also like to sell those 243 heads as they are overrated. I always get $400 for mine selling local on FB. Then I buy the small valve heads none wants super cheap. (706/862 casting). This will bump your compression and allow more power and usually run about $100-125 for the set.
What fuel do you have available? Plan on running premium? E85 an option?
Your 4l60e is going to be a weak link and then some. They are the equivalent of a th350 with OD. Even “built” at your weight they aren’t good for much and won’t last long at that. I’d look into a 4l80e or a th400.
you can get the cheap china 302-2 copy oil pans for like $125. They work great. I’ve used several.
Save your money on the LSXRT intake. Its just not needed. The truck intakes are great. Esp. The newer TBSS style. They are right on par with that LSXRT. Giant waste of money to run that intake IMO.
If you want to break the bank. Buy a bigger cam, mill the small CC heads, and do a valve job while you’re at it. Will make a MUCH bigger power difference.
Any LS coil will work fine.
Lots of good advise in this post. Since it already has a lot of miles, I would definitely replace all the bearings and run a flex hone down the cylinders. The stock replacement bearings are not expensive ($120-$150-ish). I also wouldn't bother with the FAST intake. The TBSS/NBSS intake is fine. I built an LMG (5.3L with flat tops pistons) a couple years ago. I used 706 heads, the BTR stage-2 truck cam, and TBSS intake. It made 425hp with stock exhaust. Add 1-3/4" tube headers, and it would have been near 440hp at the crank. It ran on 89 octane, but could have been tuned for 87. I am a big fan of 706/862 heads on the 5.3L. With a little porting, they flow almost as much as a stock 243. The bump in compression and valve size will help it make more power down low, where you need it.
For mostly street use driving, the 4L60 could be ok. It will need to be beefed up a little to be reliable, though. I wouldn't use the 4L80. It is very strong, cheap, and reliable. It just has crappy gears. The 6L80 would be a better option, if you can get one cheap. If you get a stock computer and harness for the LC9, it should also run the 6L80.
I'd recommend the 1-3/4" headers over the 1-7/8". They just work better on the smaller engines.
I'm really digging the orange and black color scheme. Looks great! The valve covers are pretty awesome too, I have them on both of my cars. Gets rid of that unsightly coil bracket.
I'm really digging the orange and black color scheme. Looks great! The valve covers are pretty awesome too, I have them on both of my cars. Gets rid of that unsightly coil bracket.
thanks. This will be my first LS anything so i didnt just wanna slap in in junkyard style. A little extra💰 and elbow grease
This is a diagram of how i want to run my pcv system in the white/black drawing. Passenger side valve cover to fresh air between mat sensor and throttle body. My question is from driver side valve cover do i route to the center of tbss intake that has a 90deg nipple or all the way to front, just behind throttle body with the straight up nipple?
The port behind the TB is where you want to go. You won't have to adapt the hose to a larger size.
the nipple that you advise on front of intake is 5/16 and valve cover is 3/8. Thats why i was in belief in putting valve cover to center one which is 3/8 and the same size as valve cover. Just trying to learn as much as i can
I guess the angle of the photo made me think it was larger. I believe the front one was where the EVAP purge would go. It shouldn't be an issue to place it anywhere on the intake.
03-22-2024, 04:35 PM
