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823 heads and valves

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Old Feb 7, 2025 | 04:08 PM
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Default 823 heads and valves

have these 823 heads off a LY6,
Just had them resurfaced today

Do these valves look okay to use or would it be worth dropping the LS3 valves in them? Or just some standard stainless steel?

I read they are lighter, Or just leave it and send it? Not necessarily trying to spend money but you know how it is once the parts out..

This is for a turbo street car

Thanks guys



Last edited by soadous; Feb 7, 2025 at 04:52 PM.
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Old Feb 7, 2025 | 05:15 PM
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Can't tell from here if the valves are ok or not, what matters more is where the valve contacts the seat.

As far as weight goes, unless you're going to rev a good bit beyond 7000 rpm, I would just leave them.
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Old Feb 8, 2025 | 12:36 PM
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That particular head has inconel exhaust valves and a very heavy duty intake valve….it was designed for heavy duty truck useage. They are perfect for a turbo build.
You will want to disassemble them, and check the valve seat/valve face margin/condition. I’d throw another set of valve seals at them also. Give them a good cleaning. I cringe to see hem lying in Pinestraw…
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Old Feb 8, 2025 | 02:35 PM
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It's a "barn find," Scott!!
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Old Feb 8, 2025 | 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by grinder11
It's a "barn find," Scott!!
Made me smile Mike.
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Old Feb 8, 2025 | 04:14 PM
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Haha I just layed them for the picture! So they are completely disassembled, I have new valves stem seals on the way, cleaning them in simple green and a toothbrush.
They are soaking right now.

So you guys wouldn't upgrade/swap out the valves to LS3 or even just standard stainless then?

The car will see 7,500 rpm, 85mm turbo on 18psi, th400. E85. They do have BTR 660 duel springs with titanium retainers
Thanks for the replys

Just wanted todo it correctly since their out



Last edited by soadous; Feb 8, 2025 at 04:25 PM.
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Old Feb 8, 2025 | 04:21 PM
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Those valves are stronger and will handle heat (boost) better than LS3 valves. Youve got a great setup for boost.
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Old Feb 8, 2025 | 04:27 PM
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Alright cool I'll keep them then, do I need to re lap the valves since i took them out. just very lightly? I was just going the clean the faces of them with a brass brush
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Old Feb 8, 2025 | 04:40 PM
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No need to lap if going back in the same hole. Before final assembly, put a little oil on the valve stems. Using a firm hand, slam the valves against the seats before springs go on, a few good hard times. This will help them seat since they have already been introduced to each other previously.
If you didn’t mark where they each went, then a light lapping would be a good idea.
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Old Feb 10, 2025 | 04:43 PM
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I would run them all through a wire wheel on a bench grinder to get rid of all the carbon build up on both sides of the valve.
Then go ahead and get some lapping compound and a couple cans of carb cleaner. Lap them in, clean them again with carb cleaner, and assemble them.
With them having already been surfaced, only other thing I sould suggest is a set of BTR .660 double valve springs.
Will hold up to the boostessssesesessesess a lot better.
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Old Feb 11, 2025 | 11:18 AM
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LY6 exhaust valves are Inconel stainless steel and can tolerate a lot of heat; the LY6 engine was spec-ed for heavy duty pickups. Depending on the cam and RPM you want to run, the hollow stem LS3 intake valve is really light so it can help keep control of a lively cam. I use those LY6 exhausts and LS3 intakes in LSA cylinders heads on an E-Force supercharged 6.2L with a 215/247 .629 .656 cam.
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Old Feb 11, 2025 | 12:26 PM
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I ran LS3 intake valves in a pair of LSA heads with LY6 exhaust valves and it is living a happy life making 1200hp+ in an e92 BMW turbo.

Follow this buildup... https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ispreloading=1
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