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Idle Temp Drift

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Old Mar 13, 2026 | 05:54 PM
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Default Idle Temp Drift

Hi, looking for some help, I recently finally made the swap from my 96 Lt1 swap to a LS based setup, and I'm running into an issue where at idle the temp continues to drift indefinitely 220+, however if I rev the car to 2k or so RPM it drops back down to fan temps (which is 195)

The block is a 6.0l Iron, heads are AFR LS3, LSXR Intake, SS2 cam, all 4 steam ports are hooked up, I started with a BBC radiator but switched to an LS Swap radiator with a shroud and a 16" spal that comes on at 195 1.25/1.5 inlet/outlet, the thermostat is 187, the accessory kit and water pump are from procharger (head unit not installed yet); Water pump is is a prw 97-10 high flow pump 1434607, I have a vintage air Sure fit system for 1st gen Camaro, it is plumed but I have not finished wiring it yet. Trans is t56 6 bolt

Best I can tell everything is bled, radiator is cap is the highest point and used a filler extension and also ran it a few times let it cool down completely and kept topping it off over the course of several days. I also have an overflow it can pull from, I tried bumping the idle spark to 20; Note the car is not tuned I've only ran the wizard on the terminator x so far. I am mostly testing it idling in the garage while finishing the wiring etc, I did take a quick < 10 mile lap around the block and found anything under 2k RPM temps are going up indefinitely even when moving but a quick blip of the throttle will drop it down. I've tested the thermostat and it does open. Previously with the last two motors I've ran electric water pumps, but I don't think that's an option with the procharger kit (they are checking);

Open to any suggestions I'm a bit stumped on this one; and this is my first LS based swap.

Thanks!
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Old Mar 13, 2026 | 11:21 PM
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what does the log say for actual idle timing? Setting it to 20 doesn't mean that's what it's seeing. It could be pulling timing to get to the target idle speed. Mine engine likes about 24 degrees to where it stabilizes around 180 degrees at idle.
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Old Mar 14, 2026 | 12:43 AM
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Hmm, watching it in real time it's bouncing around 18-20, I'll log it tomorrow, update the post, and try 24 as well. I know when I rev it to 2k it will jump up to 36 and stays there with no movement.

Thanks
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Old Mar 14, 2026 | 06:18 AM
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What's your target AFR at idle? Idle speed?
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Old Mar 14, 2026 | 03:55 PM
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I haven't adjusted the target AFR yet, it's at the default, the idle speed was at 850 (and would like to return to 850), but I bumped it to 1000 to see if that helps at all.


Last edited by brahmg; Mar 14, 2026 at 04:49 PM.
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Old Mar 14, 2026 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by brahmg
Hi, looking for some help, I recently finally made the swap from my 96 Lt1 swap to a LS based setup, and I'm running into an issue where at idle the temp continues to drift indefinitely 220+, however if I rev the car to 2k or so RPM it drops back down to fan temps (which is 195)

The block is a 6.0l Iron, heads are AFR LS3, LSXR Intake, SS2 cam, all 4 steam ports are hooked up, I started with a BBC radiator but switched to an LS Swap radiator with a shroud and a 16" spal that comes on at 195 1.25/1.5 inlet/outlet, the thermostat is 187, the accessory kit and water pump are from procharger (head unit not installed yet); Water pump is is a prw 97-10 high flow pump 1434607, I have a vintage air Sure fit system for 1st gen Camaro, it is plumed but I have not finished wiring it yet. Trans is t56 6 bolt

Best I can tell everything is bled, radiator is cap is the highest point and used a filler extension and also ran it a few times let it cool down completely and kept topping it off over the course of several days. I also have an overflow it can pull from, I tried bumping the idle spark to 20; Note the car is not tuned I've only ran the wizard on the terminator x so far. I am mostly testing it idling in the garage while finishing the wiring etc, I did take a quick < 10 mile lap around the block and found anything under 2k RPM temps are going up indefinitely even when moving but a quick blip of the throttle will drop it down. I've tested the thermostat and it does open. Previously with the last two motors I've ran electric water pumps, but I don't think that's an option with the procharger kit (they are checking);

Open to any suggestions I'm a bit stumped on this one; and this is my first LS based swap.

Thanks!
Are you using a heater in this car??
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Old Mar 14, 2026 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 91 Z28
Are you using a heater in this car??
Yes, I'm running the Vintage air surefit gen V kit for a 1st gen Camaro. Everything is plumbed and in place but I haven't put the fuses in to test it out yet; I still need to wire in the shut off, drill a spot to add the drain, and charge the system.
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Old Mar 14, 2026 | 08:35 PM
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Try leaning out the idle to that ~14.7 range. That pump also may not flow too well at ~850rpm and that's why the temp starts to drop when you rev it up. That and possibly the added timing.
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Old Mar 14, 2026 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by jayyyw
Try leaning out the idle to that ~14.7 range. That pump also may not flow too well at ~850rpm and that's why the temp starts to drop when you rev it up. That and possibly the added timing.


Thanks, I'll give that a try; I bumped the timing to 22.5 at idle it seems to be holding pretty close, I also set the fan to come on a little earlier; 190. I've been talking to support @ procharger since the pump came with their accessory drive kit assuming others would have ran into the same issues but no dice. What's odd is even if I hold it at say 1500 rpm it does the same thing, it isn't until I cross over into the 2k+ range that it starts to drop; which isn't ideal for any sort of driving or even staging in the lanes

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Old Mar 17, 2026 | 07:45 AM
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Do you have a photo of this fan. Which 16-inch fan is this. Is this the new 16 inch brushless fan or an older low profile unit. Maybe a photo might help. The fan on a 1967-1969 Camaro is pretty small so a good fan is a must.
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Old Mar 17, 2026 | 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Double06
Do you have a photo of this fan. Which 16-inch fan is this. Is this the new 16 inch brushless fan or an older low profile unit. Maybe a photo might help. The fan on a 1967-1969 Camaro is pretty small so a good fan is a must.
Hi,

It's a Spal 30102113

https://www.holley.com/products/cool...parts/30102113


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Old Mar 17, 2026 | 04:29 PM
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You probably need more fan. I would try some other stuff suggested first. A nice double or the new brushless single would be good. If that is your set up above you need some flaps for when you are at speed to blow off excess pressure. Here are some examples. My fan core is 26 x 17 on my 1965 Chevelle and 24.5 x 17.5 on my C6 Corvette. The black shroud is a cut to fit shroud Spal / Dewitts sells - cut range is 22.5 inches to 27.5 inches and is 18 inches tall. Your GEN 1 Camaro is similar size. The issue arises not the CFM these fans are rated at but how much they flow with stuff in front of them. With h AC condenser radiator and an intercooler all in front you need a fan with some Big Block torque.



Last edited by Double06; Mar 17, 2026 at 05:21 PM.
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Old Mar 18, 2026 | 11:40 AM
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Thanks, I'll look into the flaps, in terms of temps, I'm not sure the fan is the issue, if I rev the motor it moves water which also in turn fires the motor more; which in theory then would overwhelm the fan if the fan was the issue instead the opposite happens and it cools down. If the fan (or lack of) was the problem I would think it would be go down at idle, and up above 2k rpm vs the opposite; all while not moving and pushing air through the radiator
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Old Mar 18, 2026 | 04:51 PM
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What brand is the thermostat? I had 2 new motorad 180s out of the box not work right. Fans would be on high speed, radiator would be warm but not hot, idling coolant temp would be 207*. Ended up putting my old 160 stat in, problem solved. There was something up with those 2 "180*" motorad t stats not sending enough coolant to the rad.
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Old Mar 18, 2026 | 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by SLP IROC-Z
What brand is the thermostat? I had 2 new motorad 180s out of the box not work right. Fans would be on high speed, radiator would be warm but not hot, idling coolant temp would be 207*. Ended up putting my old 160 stat in, problem solved. There was something up with those 2 "180*" motorad t stats not sending enough coolant to the rad.
I'm using this - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-367-187

I did test it in boiling water and it opens, but if it's the exact correct amount it should be opening for that specific temp, I can't say. Was yours opening but not enough? Is your old one an Acdelco 160?
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Old Mar 18, 2026 | 07:00 PM
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Piston stop to find TDC if it's not already marked.
Check the timing w/ a light.
Be sure to disable timing idle control before you do this.
As mentioned 13.8 idle is too fat.
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Old Mar 18, 2026 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Old Buzzard
Piston stop to find TDC if it's not already marked.
Check the timing w/ a light.
Be sure to disable timing idle control before you do this.
As mentioned 13.8 idle is too fat.
Thanks we did adjust the target AFR as following, it seemed like it got better but it didn't resolve the issue.




Hrmm, ha if I go looking for my timing light, it will take my to the garage with the projects I've been neglecting; can't let myself get side quested by the flatheads I need to get torn apart, hot tanked and mag'd
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Old Apr 4, 2026 | 03:52 PM
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Thanks everyone, issue has been resolved. I put in the Vintage air H pipe, and also swapped out the thermostat for PRW - 5234683 (which is the brand of water pump Prochager uses); it's a totally different style unit then the one I was running, I had to cut the extended tab off to get it to fit w/the bracket but otherwise working great. Not sure if it was the h-pipe that or the thermostat that did the trick but, cars holding at 184-186 now.


Last edited by brahmg; Apr 4, 2026 at 05:29 PM.
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