Suggestions for 35+ N/A HP & TQ
After reading all of your other posts, it sounds like you need some serious tuning help, that could help you out quite a bit, but that wideband will be essential to getting the fueling and timing right.
I also see you have a Lingenfelter intake. Have you considered a Hardcore intake? I went from a K&N to a Hardcore and my IAT's dropped almost 50 degrees. Its the only true cold air intake I've seen for the GTO, except that dual filter OTR deal, and Hardcore is a good friend of mine, so I let him talk me into it Haha.
To answer your question about LTFT, if you see -10 to -12 all the time, you need some VE tuning. There are some decent writeups on HPTuners forum on how to do that with the ETC cars, but the only way to truly calibrate the MAF is to have a decent VE tune first. The wideband will really help with that and once you are done, your LTFT/STFT will be at or near 0 all the time. You mentioned your STFT's are always close. That is NOT a good indicator because all that has happened is your LTFT has pulled fuel until your STFT's get into line.
Now, you CAN get your LTFT's in line by changing the MAF if you dont want to do a VE tune, but you run the risk of problems if your MAF ever fails. What you would need to do is log airflow by MAF hz in the VCM scanner and then remove whatever percentage that the LTFT is off in the corresponding MAF Hz cells by multiplying them by .95 (to subract 5% at a time) or .90 for 10%, etc.....I made a custom histogram for logging LTFT by MAF Hz to make it easier to just "Multiply by %" into the MAF table.
If you want it to stop popping on decel, turn off DFCO. It pops because it runs lean on decel due to turning off your fuel injectors. Disabling DFCO will eliminate that, but your gas mileage may suffer a little.
I also see you have a Lingenfelter intake. Have you considered a Hardcore intake? I went from a K&N to a Hardcore and my IAT's dropped almost 50 degrees. Its the only true cold air intake I've seen for the GTO, except that dual filter OTR deal, and Hardcore is a good friend of mine, so I let him talk me into it Haha.
To answer your question about LTFT, if you see -10 to -12 all the time, you need some VE tuning. There are some decent writeups on HPTuners forum on how to do that with the ETC cars, but the only way to truly calibrate the MAF is to have a decent VE tune first. The wideband will really help with that and once you are done, your LTFT/STFT will be at or near 0 all the time. You mentioned your STFT's are always close. That is NOT a good indicator because all that has happened is your LTFT has pulled fuel until your STFT's get into line.
Now, you CAN get your LTFT's in line by changing the MAF if you dont want to do a VE tune, but you run the risk of problems if your MAF ever fails. What you would need to do is log airflow by MAF hz in the VCM scanner and then remove whatever percentage that the LTFT is off in the corresponding MAF Hz cells by multiplying them by .95 (to subract 5% at a time) or .90 for 10%, etc.....I made a custom histogram for logging LTFT by MAF Hz to make it easier to just "Multiply by %" into the MAF table.
If you want it to stop popping on decel, turn off DFCO. It pops because it runs lean on decel due to turning off your fuel injectors. Disabling DFCO will eliminate that, but your gas mileage may suffer a little.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 531
Likes: 1
From: Texas, Europe, Iraq & Afghanistan
I get the popping on mild acceleration when the car is cool and the weather is cool. Deceleration is not an issue. Does the popping mean it is lean under acceleration in the cool weather, cold engine conditions?
My intake air temperatures are over 100 degrees F when not moving, but decrease to under 100 degrees when the car starts moving. I've ordered a fiberglass hood with functional ram-air from carbonbydesign.com just to help things cool.
Yeah, tuning is a must. I hope I can find power and drivability through it.
My intake air temperatures are over 100 degrees F when not moving, but decrease to under 100 degrees when the car starts moving. I've ordered a fiberglass hood with functional ram-air from carbonbydesign.com just to help things cool.
Yeah, tuning is a must. I hope I can find power and drivability through it.
After reading all of your other posts, it sounds like you need some serious tuning help, that could help you out quite a bit, but that wideband will be essential to getting the fueling and timing right.
I also see you have a Lingenfelter intake. Have you considered a Hardcore intake? I went from a K&N to a Hardcore and my IAT's dropped almost 50 degrees. Its the only true cold air intake I've seen for the GTO, except that dual filter OTR deal, and Hardcore is a good friend of mine, so I let him talk me into it Haha.
To answer your question about LTFT, if you see -10 to -12 all the time, you need some VE tuning. There are some decent writeups on HPTuners forum on how to do that with the ETC cars, but the only way to truly calibrate the MAF is to have a decent VE tune first. The wideband will really help with that and once you are done, your LTFT/STFT will be at or near 0 all the time. You mentioned your STFT's are always close. That is NOT a good indicator because all that has happened is your LTFT has pulled fuel until your STFT's get into line.
Now, you CAN get your LTFT's in line by changing the MAF if you dont want to do a VE tune, but you run the risk of problems if your MAF ever fails. What you would need to do is log airflow by MAF hz in the VCM scanner and then remove whatever percentage that the LTFT is off in the corresponding MAF Hz cells by multiplying them by .95 (to subract 5% at a time) or .90 for 10%, etc.....I made a custom histogram for logging LTFT by MAF Hz to make it easier to just "Multiply by %" into the MAF table.
If you want it to stop popping on decel, turn off DFCO. It pops because it runs lean on decel due to turning off your fuel injectors. Disabling DFCO will eliminate that, but your gas mileage may suffer a little.
I also see you have a Lingenfelter intake. Have you considered a Hardcore intake? I went from a K&N to a Hardcore and my IAT's dropped almost 50 degrees. Its the only true cold air intake I've seen for the GTO, except that dual filter OTR deal, and Hardcore is a good friend of mine, so I let him talk me into it Haha.
To answer your question about LTFT, if you see -10 to -12 all the time, you need some VE tuning. There are some decent writeups on HPTuners forum on how to do that with the ETC cars, but the only way to truly calibrate the MAF is to have a decent VE tune first. The wideband will really help with that and once you are done, your LTFT/STFT will be at or near 0 all the time. You mentioned your STFT's are always close. That is NOT a good indicator because all that has happened is your LTFT has pulled fuel until your STFT's get into line.
Now, you CAN get your LTFT's in line by changing the MAF if you dont want to do a VE tune, but you run the risk of problems if your MAF ever fails. What you would need to do is log airflow by MAF hz in the VCM scanner and then remove whatever percentage that the LTFT is off in the corresponding MAF Hz cells by multiplying them by .95 (to subract 5% at a time) or .90 for 10%, etc.....I made a custom histogram for logging LTFT by MAF Hz to make it easier to just "Multiply by %" into the MAF table.
If you want it to stop popping on decel, turn off DFCO. It pops because it runs lean on decel due to turning off your fuel injectors. Disabling DFCO will eliminate that, but your gas mileage may suffer a little.
I've never heard of one popping on accel before so I can't say for sure, but that may be it if you are seeing huge negative LTFT's. Seems like running lean there would cause KR before it would do that, but you never know.
Cold weather means denser air and the posibilty of running lean if the tuning isn't right.
Do you have any scans of the car in HPT you could post?
Cold weather means denser air and the posibilty of running lean if the tuning isn't right.
Do you have any scans of the car in HPT you could post?
