Iron block or Aluminum?Differences?
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Southern California
Iron block or Aluminum?Differences? I am going to start to build a motor and am wondering about blocks.
It will be a 427 or larger to make about 550rwhp NA and I want to be able to run about a 100 shot of NO2 later on if I decide to.
I was told the best way is a resleeved LS2 block due to the material of the liners can stand up to more abuse than the LS7.What differences are there to the blocks other than weight? How much weight is it and should it concern me?
Thanks in advance for the input!
It will be a 427 or larger to make about 550rwhp NA and I want to be able to run about a 100 shot of NO2 later on if I decide to.
I was told the best way is a resleeved LS2 block due to the material of the liners can stand up to more abuse than the LS7.What differences are there to the blocks other than weight? How much weight is it and should it concern me?
Thanks in advance for the input!
I think you got some good advice. I would also go with a resleeved ls2 block if I were to do an aluminum 427+ buildup. There's also the LSX block in iron (rated to much more than you are aiming for) that's popular now too. I forgot how much more it weighs, like 80-90 lbs? Someone chime in here.
Bigger then 427 and a type of FI I would go iron best being an actual lsx block no need to Resleeve. The difference is only gonna be about 80 to 90lbs at most which is way less then the weight of a passenger. Or there is the LS7 block if you wanted to go aluminum.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Southern California
Yea I wanted an aluminum block and would like to keep from adding 80lbs to my car but Im wondering about the durability. I know the LSX block could handle anything I throw at it but im wondering if an iron block would be both cheaper and stronger and if so I wouldnt feel bad about the extra 80 lbs.The car is more/less a daily driver...meaning I drive a truck for work but as soon as I get home im driving the TA. Thanks for the help guys.
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This thread will blow up soon. Filled with a bunch of BS about how weak aluminum blocks are and how awesome the LSX blocks are. Then you will have the guys that think just the opposite and then it will be a flame war. Talk to your builder and tell him what you expect your engine to make for HP and how you intend to use it and he will make his recommendation. Just make sure he has a good reputation and has built what you want before the more motors he has built similar to what you want the better. Everyone has thieer opinions of what is better. There are plenty of brutally quick cars running both.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Southern California
This thread will blow up soon. Filled with a bunch of BS about how weak aluminum blocks are and how awesome the LSX blocks are. Then you will have the guys that think just the opposite and then it will be a flame war. Talk to your builder and tell him what you expect your engine to make for HP and how you intend to use it and he will make his recommendation. Just make sure he has a good reputation and has built what you want before the more motors he has built similar to what you want the better. Everyone has thieer opinions of what is better. There are plenty of brutally quick cars running both.
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There were only 2 or 3 guys raising hell about the iron blocks. I'd stick with the sleeved LS2 if I were you. You get a better material in the liners and there longer for more support at BDC.
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its also a budget issue...resleeving is pricy and im pretty sure the iron block would be cheaper. but i think its ultimately up to what you want to spend and sacrafice...money or weight. either way you will be fine with your block. its easier to overtighten something and crack the aluminum block or strip it out. but both blocks are built to be tortured so have fun in whichever one you pick!
427... You can just use a L92 block and a 4.125 crank. You could use an iron block, but the sleeves are a little shorter so you might have some oil consumption problems if its not set up correctly. No resleeving and either will hold a 100 shot fine.
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Why not just use an LS7 block? It already has sleeves with 4.125" bores, perfect for L92 or LS7 heads. Billet main caps and better crankcase breathing are other good attributes of this block. It only costs about $2300 from what I've seen. By the time you buy and L92 block and spend the money to bore and re-sleeve it, you're talking BIG dollars.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Southern California
Why not just use an LS7 block? It already has sleeves with 4.125" bores, perfect for L92 or LS7 heads. Billet main caps and better crankcase breathing are other good attributes of this block. It only costs about $2300 from what I've seen. By the time you buy and L92 block and spend the money to bore and re-sleeve it, you're talking BIG dollars.
I am told that a re-sleeved LS2 block is much stronger and will handle a 150 shot wih no problem. I have pretty much decided on the LS2 block...just deciding on who I want to build it and comparing prices.
Thanks for the advise
Thread Starter
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From: Southern California
If you have any other suggestions though I am more than open to them and really appreciate any advice. Thanks!
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Why not go with the Warhawk. Get the tall deck version with 481cubes and then you wont have to worry about the N20 later. Ported LS7 heads and a nice cam and you could have a 700hp N/A m motor. The LSX block weighs a 100lbs over the LS7 doesn't it? I wouldn't want to add that much weight to the front of any vehical.