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I'm going crazy trying to figure this out, searched the internet and I can't find much info on identifying each of the plumbing ports. I had ordered this one originally, it's listed for a 2014-2018 Silverado. My L83 came from a 2017. I'll admit I don't know much about fuel pumps and I ordered this one off Amazon under the part numbers M100264 (or also listed as 13513407).
When I look at the tag on the top hat it has 13513404 and 812609568?????
Can someone point me in the direction to learn more about the plumbing on these or tell me what each port on top is for.
I figured out the black electrical plug is a tank presser sensor and I'm pretty sure the capped line is the main fuel feed that comes from the pump. The other two ports coming off from the purple V have what feel like a roll over vent valve underneath inside the canister. I'm thinking these hook up to the EVAP system and maybe I can use the big one as a tank vent and block off the other smaller one.
All said I'm not really sure of any of this and would still appreciate some input. I wish the ZL1 pump was taller, it would make it a lot easier to figure out.
That is GM #13513407 And all GEN V DI LT1/LT4/LT5/L83/L86 truck engines are PWM for fuel.
If the original Sean poster sees this, did you ever figure out how to get a PWM from a Gen V truck to work in your swap? I see by you saying "I wish the ZL1 pump was taller" I think I have a good idea what you're up to and would love to know if you ever got any progress.
if anyone else has gotten a Gen V PWM fuel module to work in a older EFI style fuel tank, pipe in! I think that's one of the missing pieces in making gen V swaps easier; mating up the Camero/Corvette style PWM in tank Low pressure fuel pumps into the fuel tanks of the vehicles we're trying to swap.
It's SO MUCH EASIER. No regulator, no filter, no return, just plumb it to the fuel rail and the FPR sensor and you're done.
Last edited by theunderlord; 02-23-2022 at 04:19 PM.
Yeah it works great. Speartech did the programming and supplied the FPCM. I got the mount ring from Ricks and welded up an aluminum tank. I did use the combined fuel level sensor but haven't even checked if it works, have to calibrate it on my Dakota Digital gauge.
One thing I was having trouble with was it would run a few seconds and die, when I started searching with HPTuners I found there was no signal voltage from the Fuel Pressure Sensor to the ECM. I really thought that was my problem and after testing a bunch of things it looked like the ECM wasn't getting a signal. Anyways.....it runs fine at 0.0V and it was the MAF tune was so far out to lunch that the engine would just cut fuel. Big help from Mitch at Swaptime for finding that one.
Nice, thanks for responding, what truck did you swap, and can you tell me what kind of tank you have? And yeah, Mitch seems like a super great reference, been watching some of his videos.
edit. I went and found all the threads you started (something I should have done yesterday, lol). I see you have a D110!
Last edited by theunderlord; 02-24-2022 at 10:45 PM.
Hey sorry I didn't see this, I've been off the site for a while, sold my house and moved so I've been side tracked with boring house stuff lol.
Yeah it's a 2001 Defender I stripped down to the frame and modded up pretty extensively. The engine runs okay now but I still have to get it done and on the road so I can get the MAF tuned. For now I got it unplugged and it runs fine. One thing I did notice is when I drove it around in the alley I thought I was in low range, it's got torque. Compared to my LC4 in my Jeep jk I had it was surprising, feels like the 6.0L in my truck.