Generation V Internal Engine 2013-20xx LT1

L83 Bent Pushrod....

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Old Aug 21, 2019 | 11:25 AM
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Default L83 Bent Pushrod....

Hi all, new member here. Son just got himself a 2015 Silverado 1500 with the new Gen 5 5.3L L83, 110k miles. Ran great for the first 100 miles. Then, misfire on cyl #6. Expecting the dreaded AFM/DOD failure, we pulled the valve cover. Sure enough intake side of #6 not moving. Time to take the head off. Was fully expecting a stuck AFM lifter. Nope, the lifter had come apart. Whatever is supposed to hold the moving part of the lifter and retain it and the spring, just let go. And with that a bent push rod.

So now we are planning to pull the engine out of the truck and do a complete AFM/DOD delete, probably BTR stuff including new cam. Will have the machine shop take a look at the head and verify the valve is not bent, but might just replace it for safety's sake. Piston looks perfectly fine, not even a mark on it.

I am completely new to this engine family. I have a couple questions if anyone can help....

1) While we have the engine out of the truck, anything else we should plan on replacing or looking at with 110k on the odo? We will certainly pull the pan to insure everything is good and nothing fell into down into the pan. Actually if I understand this engine correctly, we have no choice except to pull the pan in order to get the oil pump out which is required to change the cam.

2) Which takes me to my second question, has anyone written a manual or book on rebuilding the Gen 5 engine? What should I get to help with assembly sequence and torque figures? GM service manual? Chilton? Other?

3) And last, at least for now, do I recall that those high-pressure fuel pipes located in the valley must be replaced after removing them? I don't think you are supposed to reuse them. Is this correct?

Thanks all...
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Old Aug 21, 2019 | 11:35 AM
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1) These engines usually go 200-300k miles before they even ACT worn out.
3) I believe the fuel lines are reusable.
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Old Aug 28, 2019 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by dhenderz
Hi all, new member here. Son just got himself a 2015 Silverado 1500 with the new Gen 5 5.3L L83, 110k miles. Ran great for the first 100 miles. Then, misfire on cyl #6. Expecting the dreaded AFM/DOD failure, we pulled the valve cover. Sure enough intake side of #6 not moving. Time to take the head off. Was fully expecting a stuck AFM lifter. Nope, the lifter had come apart. Whatever is supposed to hold the moving part of the lifter and retain it and the spring, just let go. And with that a bent push rod.

So now we are planning to pull the engine out of the truck and do a complete AFM/DOD delete, probably BTR stuff including new cam. Will have the machine shop take a look at the head and verify the valve is not bent, but might just replace it for safety's sake. Piston looks perfectly fine, not even a mark on it.

I am completely new to this engine family. I have a couple questions if anyone can help....

1) While we have the engine out of the truck, anything else we should plan on replacing or looking at with 110k on the odo? We will certainly pull the pan to insure everything is good and nothing fell into down into the pan. Actually if I understand this engine correctly, we have no choice except to pull the pan in order to get the oil pump out which is required to change the cam.

2) Which takes me to my second question, has anyone written a manual or book on rebuilding the Gen 5 engine? What should I get to help with assembly sequence and torque figures? GM service manual? Chilton? Other?

3) And last, at least for now, do I recall that those high-pressure fuel pipes located in the valley must be replaced after removing them? I don't think you are supposed to reuse them. Is this correct?

Thanks all...

I reused mine and so have many many others without issue.

I'll post a cam install thread here in minute that covers pretty much eveyrthing, will prob take an hour to go through if you're thorough and has a boat load of info. It's a cam install thread on a gen 5 6.2 (it all applies to your L83) I helped a guy with on performancetrucks.net



Post up any questions this thread doesn't answer. You can post here on LS1tech or over on performance trucks. Everything swap wise on the 6.2 is the same as the 5.3, tools etc.

Do not clean the engine with oven cleaner like this guy did though. Block looks like **** afterwards. Other than that there's a ton of good info in the thread. Also, pull the oil pan and pump, sliding the pump back and forth across the o ring in the pan is super risky.

Click this link
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...advice-555280/




.

Last edited by 00pooterSS; Aug 28, 2019 at 04:55 PM.
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Old Aug 31, 2019 | 05:59 AM
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Thanks really appreciate the info. Here's another question, in this case on the oil pump. From what I've read including the Haynes manual, if you intend the reuse the oil pump, you need to use the holding/guide tools to insure you get the oil pump reinstalled in exactly the same location. I have the tool on order. So no problem there. The manual indicates that if you pull the oil pump and don't use the tool, then you are forced to purchase a new pump. OK, fine. But I am wondering, what is the procedure when you install a new pump? Is there some sort of special alignment tool or process for a NEW pump? I cannot find any info on the process for installing/aligning a new pump. Seems strange to me. You can reuse an old pump if you use the tool. Otherwise you are forced to buy a new pump. But nowhere can I find how or why magically a new pump doesn't require any alignment tool.

I am asking this because I am seriously considering a new pump just for safety sake. They are only $100 from GM. And it comes with a new variable volume valve already installed. So it's a pretty cheap insurance policy especially when you consider how difficult the job would be down the road if something happened and it required replacement. This is 4WD truck, so either the engine needs to be pulled again or the front diff has to be dropped.
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Old Sep 2, 2019 | 02:57 PM
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I heard that about the pump too and makes no sense.

I'm wondering if the new pump comes with an alignment tool or something

And from what I gather the alignment tool is just a piece that screws to the block that makes you put the pump back in the same location. Kinda a weird deal.

I wonder if just shimming the pump is sufficient like gen 3 and 4 pumps but I haven't personally jacked with one yet
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