Is a Downpipe Worthwhile w/o and exhaust?
#22
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Just look at the pipe its small, and it cramps down, I don't have hard scientific proof as I was not able to dyno the car, but seat of the pants was there. I would have provided it if I had it.
But being skeptical of all my exhaust posts is hardly helpful?
P.S. My car has power door locks, I cannot provide you hard scientific data that I do, but I can tell you that when I hit the button they all go up or down. :-)
But being skeptical of all my exhaust posts is hardly helpful?
P.S. My car has power door locks, I cannot provide you hard scientific data that I do, but I can tell you that when I hit the button they all go up or down. :-)
#24
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Okay guys, fire away at me...I currently have a Hogan DP7S with high flow Magnaflow CAT...its modular so I removed it and in its place the bolt on Race Pipe....that runs to the res delete into two Borla turbo muffs. The sound is so low in the deci range....its not so much loud in volume as it is like a subwoofer, loud in deci....First off, setting off car alarms and vibrating your voice is one of the many fun but sometimes annoying evils if you will. With this I am running a CAI, JET MAF, AirAid TBS, RAT enginge Supp. and MSP polybush. For one, with this DP set up with the exhuast the way it is...your going to smell the fuel burning with the RP on....its not running rich, so im told by the techs at the race team shop, if anything its running a lil lean with open exhaust...but your going to get a smell like your on top of a dam top fuel dragster...real rich smelling and will give you a headache or burn your senses if you stick around too long...this is just the fuel burning regular at the high octane we have to put in the girls ne ways....your smelling it burning the gas since the CAT is removed, its not catching the vapors and gas. With that said, as far as HP numbers go...was at the dyno...see below the numbers...A buddy of mine has a Monte SS with the LS4....his dyno with the dynojet running baseline, bonestock...so he says at 250wbh and 288wbt....NO MODS..not too bad...I go and run and as you see...he is running at least 10 plus HP than me....10 HP is the equiv. to a MODIFICATION of some sort Im thinking...just because I have all this done, doesnt mean i have to have more HP, but next to baseline it seems like I should...and I only registered a lil more torque...now, with his mods, including the HP TUNE on the DYNOJET and the 1.8 rockers and the same Modular dp as mine with the race pipe...he is pumping out 267wbh and 288wbt.....so i asked him what the hell he was doing that was giving him more HP numbers on the baseline bone stock...just hard for me to believe he is generating that much more HP than me stock, with all my mods...the exhaust alone with the CAI should of taken him out of the stock numbers right there...but I think it sounds like he had a lil PCM flash...not dyno yet with it...just street tune probably before he put it on the dyno...It could be the dyno HP register too...since our torque was about the same...I actually had more....but HP...my guy is a race team owner and operator in the AFA and sponsored by Mcd's....he has claimed a championship last year...Hid drum dyno is NASCAR spec certified and he was the official dynojet for the IRL circuit a few times....when they really were dynoing a lot more than they are now, but the boys over at Pete Cozzilinos Racing, Pete himself dynoed this car.......so I am wondering if it could be a false reading by the dyno...but so close to torque and that far from HP...i mean, even the wrong mod, or not the right one can take power sometimes...more mods doesnt mean better all the time....as ZZP will tell you...they had an article about that..you guys know what im talking about....but the amount of HP I would loose would not be that extreme I dont think...so just food for thought...Im going to be getting a HP tune, and Comp Cam Steel pro mag rockers 1.8 and springs with 11/21" pushrods...with a accumulator shift kit with a tran cooler..plugs and perf. wires...helped tuned by my XD16 with LC1 from Innovate and my two aeroforce scan guages...one for the PCM and the whole car, the other for oil and fuel Ext aux. press. i will be getting more numbers I will post them...I am going to take off the TBS and then the MAF...see if that has anything to do with the loss....really dont think so though...I know that the MAF is good, because Pete said if it wasnt, then I would be throwing weird air/fuel numbers...and at least 75% do for that matter....
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Hey sorry guys...got the numbers wacked up...he was putting out 267wbt baseline, close to me now, but im a lil higher, and he was putting out 250wbh baseline...the 267wbh is for the tune on the dyno along with the 288wbt
#27
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The Local guy that does alot of GM tunning HATES aftermarket MAF sensors. I had him dyno tune my car. Stock was 244Whp. And we got 264 on pull #5 Dropped off a couple on pull# 6 to 259. It was getting rather hot by then. I think how the car is tunned makes a big differance especially with any other mods. Since with an intake, exhaust, and the other stuff you have done the motor is gonna operate different then what most of the "Box" tunes are set up for. They are made for a Stock car. So once u start modding a Dyno tune become more important as the tuner can see where he can make the car run better by adding or subtracing timing.And adjusting the rest of the variables. Since the whole perpose of doing mods is to make the car run better. Make the engine more efficeint. I really believe the only way to get the most out of a modded car is to get it dyno tuned. Thats the hole point making a custom tune for what YOUR car and do not the one that they used to create there "Box" tune.To make YOUR car not someone else's the best it can be. Also Do you still have a rear O2 sensor??
#28
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Paragraphs... Holy words mushed together!
When I dynoed I got:
Mustang:
240/293
Corrected for Dynojet:
268.8/328.16
Stock at crank:
303/328
That was with Diablo 93 Tune, K&N, Hogan Catted DP, and No Resonator (Not that it does anything)
And to your question... I would question the MAF and spacer, I don't see any reason why the rest of your setup would cause a problem... Tuning in those two mods will be key and if not done properly I could see how you would lose power....
When I dynoed I got:
Mustang:
240/293
Corrected for Dynojet:
268.8/328.16
Stock at crank:
303/328
That was with Diablo 93 Tune, K&N, Hogan Catted DP, and No Resonator (Not that it does anything)
And to your question... I would question the MAF and spacer, I don't see any reason why the rest of your setup would cause a problem... Tuning in those two mods will be key and if not done properly I could see how you would lose power....
Last edited by EmersonHart13; 03-21-2009 at 11:19 AM.
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yeah guys agreed...i havent started the actual tune yet...but just need to tweak and tune in the mods all together...not bad mods..to his, his own i believe is what we say..lol its just tunning them as u said....this guy pulling the 250Whp was pure stock so he says...and panther when u pulled what were u running my man..? Was that bone stock or what? It looks like we r pulling around same numbers for the mosy part...mustang has a lil torque monster it looks like...im going to have it HP box tuned then all the rockers and gauges incorperated etc...then have it popped on the dyno...Panther, to answer ur ?, i still have my rear sensor..its neatly tucked away in the underbody...bad thing is i think i will have to retune for when or if i ever run the CAT..that comes with a whole fabbed..but the race pipe does not..
#31
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I dynoed on a Dynojet. personally. I think my TQ was 322. My car is completey stock other than the tune Rossko. Im really confused. I know this guys is a great tunner. But i dont understand how i can be so close in power to you with how much work u have done to your car. I have seen him dyno tune several cars all with great results.
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Idk Panther...i spoke to Chad...he is is a LS tunning guy..Greenlightmotorsports.com....im getting away from my guy that tunes and works on v6 cars..havent started the big build yet...still needing to find the length of the push rods...i think they are 11/32" diameter at 7.400" length and 5/16" ball ends...let me know if you guys know...but Chad, my new guy...he is telling me to take that damned MAF off!!! descreen it...that would help...GM makes the best MAF im told anyway...there is something not right im thinking...i have lost a lot of horses somewhere...its almost like something is wrong...or just so right that I havent tuned it in yet...hell idk..we find out...
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#33
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Id put your stock MAF back on. Swap that out tommorow see if that makes it better at all. I wont be changing my MAF except to a bigger GM unit if for some reason i need it if i go turbo or something.
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I'm the friend Rossko85 mentioned in the above posts and in response I offer the following:
First off, my baseline dyno WAS bone stock. I wanted to know what kind of power/ torque numbers I was starting with so I could determine what future changes were worthwhile. Second, Pete knows what he's doing but you still haven't told me what Correction Factor was used for your run. Example: the Correction Factor used on my baseline run was STD netting me 250.32hp/ 266.89tq. If I change the correction factor to SAE my numbers (for the exact same run) change to 243.40hp/ 259.50tq. The correction factor may be the difference. Third, like you said Ross, just throwing parts on a car can sometimes rob power especially when you don't have the car tuned for the new mods. I've attached my three main dyno runs. The first is the baseline. The second is after rockers, oil restrictive pushrods and computer tune (with HP Tuners). The third is with the Hogan modular downpipe (race pipe installed) and no additional changes made to the computer tune.
Too answer the original question that started this thread, my numbers show a couple hp gain and about 6tq lost after the downpipe install. My guess is that I could probably get a little more outta the DP if I tweaked the computer tune a little more but just throwing it on didn't make much difference.
First off, my baseline dyno WAS bone stock. I wanted to know what kind of power/ torque numbers I was starting with so I could determine what future changes were worthwhile. Second, Pete knows what he's doing but you still haven't told me what Correction Factor was used for your run. Example: the Correction Factor used on my baseline run was STD netting me 250.32hp/ 266.89tq. If I change the correction factor to SAE my numbers (for the exact same run) change to 243.40hp/ 259.50tq. The correction factor may be the difference. Third, like you said Ross, just throwing parts on a car can sometimes rob power especially when you don't have the car tuned for the new mods. I've attached my three main dyno runs. The first is the baseline. The second is after rockers, oil restrictive pushrods and computer tune (with HP Tuners). The third is with the Hogan modular downpipe (race pipe installed) and no additional changes made to the computer tune.
Too answer the original question that started this thread, my numbers show a couple hp gain and about 6tq lost after the downpipe install. My guess is that I could probably get a little more outta the DP if I tweaked the computer tune a little more but just throwing it on didn't make much difference.
#36
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Btw i love your car. I really like that hood. Ill try to find out my correction factors.
It kinda makes sense u lot a little TQ. Kinda like some short tube headers you pick up HP but usally drop a little TQ down low.
It kinda makes sense u lot a little TQ. Kinda like some short tube headers you pick up HP but usally drop a little TQ down low.
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well I got my downpipe on (catted one) and the day I installed it no check engine light came on so that was good...3 days later (today) it did though.....Oh well time for a tune
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chad knows his **** listen to him, he does all of our tuning up here in ft wayne we have been usinig him since the begining hes has tuned my ta atleast 3 times and will be doing my wifes imp ss once we get it
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Nice car Kerns!!!
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