SSC Lowering Springs: How to install?
SSC Lowering Springs: How to install? Like the title says. How do you install the springs? Do the struts need to come off? Any special machines and/or tools needed? About how much would it cost to get them installed at a shop?
The only real special tool needed is a spring compressor.
If you don't have expierence with suspension - I'd highly recommend having a shop install them as springs are dangerous to mess with if you are inexpierenced. Shop prices might be as high as 4 hours to install, so I'd guess $300-400 for install. Could be less depending on the shop.
You'll need an alignment when you're done too. A camber kit wouldn't be a bad ideal while you're at it.
If you don't have expierence with suspension - I'd highly recommend having a shop install them as springs are dangerous to mess with if you are inexpierenced. Shop prices might be as high as 4 hours to install, so I'd guess $300-400 for install. Could be less depending on the shop.
You'll need an alignment when you're done too. A camber kit wouldn't be a bad ideal while you're at it.
struts have to come off and you have to have a spring compressor and then some regular tools. most likely your not going to have a spring compressor
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
I'm pretty sure AutoZone rents out spring compressors, but given the questions you're asking I suggest getting a shop to do it unless you have a buddy who can do it with you who's done it before.
Take one of your new springs and imagine it compressed then decompressed and shooting out at you, someone or something.
Take one of your new springs and imagine it compressed then decompressed and shooting out at you, someone or something.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 701
Likes: 0
From: chicago
can ya buy mechanical experience at autozone too?? becasue thats needed, a spring compressor, air tools, impact gun, a jack, more tools, rebuild time if im correct should be 1.8 mechanical hours, remove and replace strut is about 1.0
so 2.8 each strut at 85 a hour, some shops are 100 a hour it is expensive but looks like you have no experience so let a shop do it
so 2.8 each strut at 85 a hour, some shops are 100 a hour it is expensive but looks like you have no experience so let a shop do it
can ya buy mechanical experience at autozone too?? becasue thats needed, a spring compressor, air tools, impact gun, a jack, more tools, rebuild time if im correct should be 1.8 mechanical hours, remove and replace strut is about 1.0
so 2.8 each strut at 85 a hour, some shops are 100 a hour it is expensive but looks like you have no experience so let a shop do it
so 2.8 each strut at 85 a hour, some shops are 100 a hour it is expensive but looks like you have no experience so let a shop do it
No, and if you took the time to read the post you're replying to, he covers that base.
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You really need a wall mount spring compressor. The ones Autozone rent work, but it is kind of a hassle to use them. It's not labor intensive, just takes some time and some mechanical knowledge but if you are doubting yourself, just have a shop do it.
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When I installed the SSC springs....my friend and his buddy did most of the work, LOL. It's a lot more than just "take the strut off and install the springs."
He brought his big *** compressor tank and air tools, and it still took us 5-6 hours, I think. The rear endlinks needed to be replaced, since getting them off was a PITA and we tore the rubber boot...so I had to run to carquest to buy replacements. We used the AZ spring compressors and they worked well (with air tools), but I couldn't imagine doing this by hand...holy ***k, my arms and wrists would be killing me.
In then end...it has to be done all over again. The lowered spring plate on the KYB GR2 struts rubbed my 20's to the cords, esp. on the rear...and I've still not done the swap since I can't impose on him to help atm, and I don't have the $200-300 to have a shop do it (especially today, since my hot water heater **** out on me at home and I gotta "fiind" $600 to replace it).
Long story short...if you're not very mechanically inclined, and don't have the right tools, bite the bullet and take it to a shop. I suppose if I had a weekend where I didn't need my daily driver, I could get it done myself, but she's my only car, and we're never not doing anything that would allow the car to be parked for 2 days.
He brought his big *** compressor tank and air tools, and it still took us 5-6 hours, I think. The rear endlinks needed to be replaced, since getting them off was a PITA and we tore the rubber boot...so I had to run to carquest to buy replacements. We used the AZ spring compressors and they worked well (with air tools), but I couldn't imagine doing this by hand...holy ***k, my arms and wrists would be killing me.
In then end...it has to be done all over again. The lowered spring plate on the KYB GR2 struts rubbed my 20's to the cords, esp. on the rear...and I've still not done the swap since I can't impose on him to help atm, and I don't have the $200-300 to have a shop do it (especially today, since my hot water heater **** out on me at home and I gotta "fiind" $600 to replace it).
Long story short...if you're not very mechanically inclined, and don't have the right tools, bite the bullet and take it to a shop. I suppose if I had a weekend where I didn't need my daily driver, I could get it done myself, but she's my only car, and we're never not doing anything that would allow the car to be parked for 2 days.
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 291
Likes: 1
From: Toronto, Canada
I agree man, what a pain in the *** to compress those springs by hand. I did mine about a month ago as my car was stored for the winter and wasn't in a rush.
I would suggest a torque wrench as well.
Took at least an hour at least to compress each spring and this has to be done 8x. I don't have a strong enough compresser at home to use an impact gun, so as I said I wasn't in a rush so I took one into work to do. With the gun it took less tham 10 mins to compress the spring. I would highly recommend this.
Like Buffalo said the end links are a pain in the *** to get off. For some reason the front came off easy but the rear was pretty difficult, but I did get them off without damaging the boot.
One other thing is you will need some sort of small sledge hammer or large hammer to knock out the 2 large bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle. Once the nut comes off , you have to knock the bolt out as it is splined. Be careful when you reinstall these as the splines can't be damaged. I scribed lines on the strut to there orientation and you can also feel when they lineup.When knocking out the rear ones I would also recommend removing the abs sensor as it is close to where you have to hammer.
This was the first time I have ever done this and didn't find it too bad, just time consuming. I am mechanically inclined though as I'm a tool and die maker so I love trying new things. There is lots of info out there to utilize.
I would suggest a torque wrench as well.
Took at least an hour at least to compress each spring and this has to be done 8x. I don't have a strong enough compresser at home to use an impact gun, so as I said I wasn't in a rush so I took one into work to do. With the gun it took less tham 10 mins to compress the spring. I would highly recommend this.
Like Buffalo said the end links are a pain in the *** to get off. For some reason the front came off easy but the rear was pretty difficult, but I did get them off without damaging the boot.
One other thing is you will need some sort of small sledge hammer or large hammer to knock out the 2 large bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle. Once the nut comes off , you have to knock the bolt out as it is splined. Be careful when you reinstall these as the splines can't be damaged. I scribed lines on the strut to there orientation and you can also feel when they lineup.When knocking out the rear ones I would also recommend removing the abs sensor as it is close to where you have to hammer.
This was the first time I have ever done this and didn't find it too bad, just time consuming. I am mechanically inclined though as I'm a tool and die maker so I love trying new things. There is lots of info out there to utilize.
if its not your daily driver then this is one of those learning jobs, where if you are motivated and don't flip out when a rusted bolt is stuck on or when you have to hammer on something, you should be fine. Its a job you just look at and you know what needs to be done lol but if you are at all nervous about it, i would take the advice given to seek help. If you take the struts off and bring them into a spring shop it shouldn't be too much to get them to swap the springs.
I appreciate your replies.
I posted this thread because I went to an "independent" mechanic who quote me ~$300. I was amazed. This guy works out of his backyard!
I just got back from, this time, a real independent shop and they quoted me $240. I asked how much if I brought the struts in and he said ~$100.
Man oh man, I had no idea it'd cost this much. I always figured $50-$80, maybe even $100. What a bitch!
At any rate, I've got some time on my hands and might go the struts-to-the-shop route.
Any simple or abridged step-by-step on removing them?
EDIT: How does this guide fair? http://www.v6z24.com/howto/suspension
And another one (obviously, ignoring the rear install): http://forums.nissanversa.org/zerothread?id=310650
I posted this thread because I went to an "independent" mechanic who quote me ~$300. I was amazed. This guy works out of his backyard!
I just got back from, this time, a real independent shop and they quoted me $240. I asked how much if I brought the struts in and he said ~$100.
Man oh man, I had no idea it'd cost this much. I always figured $50-$80, maybe even $100. What a bitch!
At any rate, I've got some time on my hands and might go the struts-to-the-shop route.
Any simple or abridged step-by-step on removing them?
EDIT: How does this guide fair? http://www.v6z24.com/howto/suspension
And another one (obviously, ignoring the rear install): http://forums.nissanversa.org/zerothread?id=310650
Last edited by GXP25; Mar 24, 2010 at 02:10 PM. Reason: Added guide link.
There is at least one how to over at clubgp.com.
Basically jack up that end of the car, pull wheel, support lower control arm and remove two bolts. Hold strut and remove top three bolts. Bring that to mechanic and have swapped or.... Use spring compressor, remove top nut, swap spring and reverse. Then get alignment after 2 weeks of settling.
Basically jack up that end of the car, pull wheel, support lower control arm and remove two bolts. Hold strut and remove top three bolts. Bring that to mechanic and have swapped or.... Use spring compressor, remove top nut, swap spring and reverse. Then get alignment after 2 weeks of settling.
WOW. After reading those guides, I am definitely confident enough to do get it done. For me, time isn't quite the issue (I wouldn't mind using a manual spring compressor). Plus I get to learn.
I might throw up a guide when I get this done.
I might throw up a guide when I get this done.
I bought an electric impact for this job, mostly for the strut to knuckle bolts and the spring compressor.
You will need a breaker bar if you don't have air tools or an electric impact. But to make it real easy hit up all the bolts with PB Blaster a few days before and have a heat gun on hand always helps.
Another trick is another set of hands because when the strut is hanging and you are undoing the top three bolts you need someone to catch it. ;-)
You will need a breaker bar if you don't have air tools or an electric impact. But to make it real easy hit up all the bolts with PB Blaster a few days before and have a heat gun on hand always helps.
Another trick is another set of hands because when the strut is hanging and you are undoing the top three bolts you need someone to catch it. ;-)
I bought an electric impact for this job, mostly for the strut to knuckle bolts and the spring compressor.
You will need a breaker bar if you don't have air tools or an electric impact. But to make it real easy hit up all the bolts with PB Blaster a few days before and have a heat gun on hand always helps.
Another trick is another set of hands because when the strut is hanging and you are undoing the top three bolts you need someone to catch it. ;-)
You will need a breaker bar if you don't have air tools or an electric impact. But to make it real easy hit up all the bolts with PB Blaster a few days before and have a heat gun on hand always helps.
Another trick is another set of hands because when the strut is hanging and you are undoing the top three bolts you need someone to catch it. ;-)
I'm in Florida, is the heat gun really that necessary? Like you said, I'll just lube up the nuts and bolts a few days prior. My friend's dad has quite the tools in his garage. I'll inquire about the impact drill.
Thanks again.
Lol yeah, I'll have an assistant. Btw, will WD-40 be fine?
I'm in Florida, is the heat gun really that necessary? Like you said, I'll just lube up the nuts and bolts a few days prior. My friend's dad has quite the tools in his garage. I'll inquire about the impact drill.
Thanks again.
I'm in Florida, is the heat gun really that necessary? Like you said, I'll just lube up the nuts and bolts a few days prior. My friend's dad has quite the tools in his garage. I'll inquire about the impact drill.
Thanks again.
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
From: Fort Lauderdale
Its easy to do. I never done it on our cars but I have done them on other GM FWD cars and they are very simple. You might just want to spray the bolts a day ahead of removing them just in case there is any rust.
A hammer too! You will need to tap the strut to knuckle bolts out. To keep the ends from mushrooming I like to take the nuts off, reverse them and screw them back on to give you a bigger area to hit with the hammer.
I recall having to undo the trailing arm and the rear links...it wasn't as simple as "remove 2 strut bolts, then 3 mount bolts."
On the front BE CAREFUL not to let the axle drop down at a severe angle. Mine "popped out" at some point and it wouldn't go back in/line up with the front strut. I had to put the car in gear to get it to go back together properly...it was effin scary!
On the front BE CAREFUL not to let the axle drop down at a severe angle. Mine "popped out" at some point and it wouldn't go back in/line up with the front strut. I had to put the car in gear to get it to go back together properly...it was effin scary!