Apr 25, 2016, 05:31 PM
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Removing/ installing transmission
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,101
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regarding the gear swap how many rpm did that raise your at say 60-70 mph?
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2003
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ordered my transmission, did go with the 3.29 as well. still need to work out the tune part of it, but if all else fails i'll just have tep tune it.
also got a transmission cooler, i went with a bigger one so i can cut the radiator out of the loop. i'm sure its full of crap from failing transmission.
also got a transmission cooler, i went with a bigger one so i can cut the radiator out of the loop. i'm sure its full of crap from failing transmission.
Last edited by blkchevyz; Jun 5, 2012 at 10:45 AM.
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Superior, WI
Awesome, you won't be disappointed. I fell in love with my car all over again with the TEP tranny and 3.29s.
Also FWIW if you didn't bypass the radiator you'd have to flush that crap out anyway or TEP's warranty is void.
Also FWIW if you didn't bypass the radiator you'd have to flush that crap out anyway or TEP's warranty is void.
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 109
Likes: 1
Flush your radiator transmission cooler with a product called "Kooler Kleen".
http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-184/Dr.+Tranny+Kooler+Kleen
This way you can run both the factory cooler inline with your aftermarket unit, thus allowing the fluid to be brought up to temperature much more effectively. Your shift pressures are also affected by the fluid temperature thru the TCM.
Has anyone here bypassed the factory cooler?
Anyway if your still worried about contaminants install one of these between your new cooler and the transmission....
http://magnefinefilters.com/Magnefin...lter-R012M.htm
I have had very good experiences with re-using factory coolers when properly flushed and installing the magnafine filters inline after the tranny cooler. Ford actually will not warranty a reman tranny if you do not have one of these intstalled.....
http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-184/Dr.+Tranny+Kooler+Kleen
This way you can run both the factory cooler inline with your aftermarket unit, thus allowing the fluid to be brought up to temperature much more effectively. Your shift pressures are also affected by the fluid temperature thru the TCM.
Has anyone here bypassed the factory cooler?
Anyway if your still worried about contaminants install one of these between your new cooler and the transmission....
http://magnefinefilters.com/Magnefin...lter-R012M.htm
I have had very good experiences with re-using factory coolers when properly flushed and installing the magnafine filters inline after the tranny cooler. Ford actually will not warranty a reman tranny if you do not have one of these intstalled.....
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
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i'd assume someone else has bypassed it, when i asked about a transmission cooler dave gave me a few options and bypassing was one of them.
i might change my mind depending on how nasty my current fluid is.
i might change my mind depending on how nasty my current fluid is.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2003
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any manuals you guys recommend for these? i was looking at the haye but it cover like 20 years worth of grand prix in one... seems a little to spread out for me.
this transmission needs to get here soon, damn things on its last leg.
this transmission needs to get here soon, damn things on its last leg.
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,101
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i think i'll end up having dave tune it. that way there wont be any finger pointing if something goes wrong.
i just stopped driving it, it was getting bad and i figure i'm saving myself a tow bill, plus the thought of it breaking down with 2 kids in the car.
dave said the transmission would be about 3 weeks, so i got another week and a half... probably start pulling it apart next weekend.
i just stopped driving it, it was getting bad and i figure i'm saving myself a tow bill, plus the thought of it breaking down with 2 kids in the car.
dave said the transmission would be about 3 weeks, so i got another week and a half... probably start pulling it apart next weekend.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2003
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By far the easiest way is out the bottom.
You will need either a 4X4 wood post to lay across the strut towers to hold the engine, or do it the SAFE way and purchase a $99 transverse engine support as seen here :
http://shop.tripleedgeperformance.co...573629814.jpeg
With the engine supported with this you can drop the entire engine/transmission cradle and you will have all the room in the world to drop the transmission from underneath.
If you have dropped any FWD transmissions in the past, you will have no problem dropping this one, its very similar to other GM FWD cars, as well as the Ford Taurus layouts.
The most aggravating part is the transmission dipstick, you need to do your best to prevent damage and bending, the bolt is a feeler process.....you know how that goes.
If you get stuck, just reply here or PM me I can help....
You will need either a 4X4 wood post to lay across the strut towers to hold the engine, or do it the SAFE way and purchase a $99 transverse engine support as seen here :
http://shop.tripleedgeperformance.co...573629814.jpeg
With the engine supported with this you can drop the entire engine/transmission cradle and you will have all the room in the world to drop the transmission from underneath.
If you have dropped any FWD transmissions in the past, you will have no problem dropping this one, its very similar to other GM FWD cars, as well as the Ford Taurus layouts.
The most aggravating part is the transmission dipstick, you need to do your best to prevent damage and bending, the bolt is a feeler process.....you know how that goes.
If you get stuck, just reply here or PM me I can help....
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2003
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transmission never showed up, but did work on getting the old one out.
got the front wheels and cv pulled out. i had to cut the bolt off both tie rods, they both got to where they were almost off and then froze up, i probably should of cleaned the threads before i started unbolting them. of course the 1st side took me a couple hours had to figure out what i was needing to remove and what i didnt need too... 2nd side took 15 minutes lol.
every where i was reading was saying leave the a arm on and just undo the ball joint at the end to separate it... i found it easier to just take un bolt the arm fro the engine cradle.
so far the only issues besides the tie rods is getting to one of the transmission cooler line. the vertical one is in a place its not easy to get a wrench on strait.
i've got it pretty much to the point i'm ready to unbolt the transmission. going to wait till my new one shows up so the engine isnt dangling all week on my home made support fixture.
got the front wheels and cv pulled out. i had to cut the bolt off both tie rods, they both got to where they were almost off and then froze up, i probably should of cleaned the threads before i started unbolting them. of course the 1st side took me a couple hours had to figure out what i was needing to remove and what i didnt need too... 2nd side took 15 minutes lol.
every where i was reading was saying leave the a arm on and just undo the ball joint at the end to separate it... i found it easier to just take un bolt the arm fro the engine cradle.
so far the only issues besides the tie rods is getting to one of the transmission cooler line. the vertical one is in a place its not easy to get a wrench on strait.
i've got it pretty much to the point i'm ready to unbolt the transmission. going to wait till my new one shows up so the engine isnt dangling all week on my home made support fixture.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2003
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almost got it back together. man i would love to have a conversation with gm on why they thought it was a good idea to have 4 transmission bolts going from the transmission to the block... then throw one in the back going from the block to the transmission. i think i spent half a day trying to figure out why i couldnt get it apart... and finally wedge my arm in their enough to feel a bolt... then had to put 3 foot of extensions together so i could get it from the passenger wheel well.
that and the whole inch in space between the transmission and the frame... doesnt give you much room to pull it back to clear the flywheel.
if you dont have the engine and transmission perftectly level its not coming out.
that and the whole inch in space between the transmission and the frame... doesnt give you much room to pull it back to clear the flywheel.
if you dont have the engine and transmission perftectly level its not coming out.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2003
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got it back together and running... what a nightmare, a ground broken on the engine side and i spent a day trying to figure out why i couldnt get it started.
anyway the car shifts great now, better than it has ever before. i still need an alignment and a minor leak on the cooler line.
anyone know what type/size of fitting the cooler line is going into the transmission? i hate to by a whole new line just to cut it up so i can use it with my transmission cooler.
anyway the car shifts great now, better than it has ever before. i still need an alignment and a minor leak on the cooler line.
anyone know what type/size of fitting the cooler line is going into the transmission? i hate to by a whole new line just to cut it up so i can use it with my transmission cooler.
Thread Starter
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pretty much anwsering my own question but figured i'd post in case anyone cared...
The fitting and the lines are two different parts... the line just has a flare end on it that goes into the fitting and is held in by a clip. the fitting has an o-ring in it that can fall apart when you are removing the line... dealer has the fitting for 13 bucks so its not to bad.
The fitting and the lines are two different parts... the line just has a flare end on it that goes into the fitting and is held in by a clip. the fitting has an o-ring in it that can fall apart when you are removing the line... dealer has the fitting for 13 bucks so its not to bad.
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
pretty much anwsering my own question but figured i'd post in case anyone cared...
The fitting and the lines are two different parts... the line just has a flare end on it that goes into the fitting and is held in by a clip. the fitting has an o-ring in it that can fall apart when you are removing the line... dealer has the fitting for 13 bucks so its not to bad.
The fitting and the lines are two different parts... the line just has a flare end on it that goes into the fitting and is held in by a clip. the fitting has an o-ring in it that can fall apart when you are removing the line... dealer has the fitting for 13 bucks so its not to bad.
Good info, thanks blk!
