Do I need pistons and Rings??
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 138
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From: Sartell, MN
Do I need pistons and Rings?? Okay so I've had the car for over a year and it has always seemed to consume a bit more oil than usual. There is also this black sooty spray that accumulates on my rear bumper and exhaust tips after a while. I thought it was the dod (I assume this is what caused it). I got a tuner and tuned dod off and it seemed to help for a little but it is still using a good amount of oil! Im assuming this excessive blow by is not good.
Is there any way to stop this without opening the engine up? If I do need pistons and rings about how much will it cost to do it? Any input is greatly appreciated. The car has about 152xxx miles on it.
Is there any way to stop this without opening the engine up? If I do need pistons and rings about how much will it cost to do it? Any input is greatly appreciated. The car has about 152xxx miles on it. Before you start dumping **** in your engine like everyone seems to recommend around here, the car needs to be checked properly with a leakdown test. It fills the cylinder with compressed air, and then shows where the air is leaking from. If you get higher then 10% leakdown on any one particular cylinder, you will know where your problem is and then you just verify where the air is leaking to determine which part is bad. It's possible you could need valve stem seals and not rings, heres a video of how it works, the OTC leakdown testers on amazon are pretty cheap. Or if you have a harbor freight.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Dolla$ , TX
[QUOTE=spawne32;18761804]Before you start dumping **** in your engine like everyone seems to recommend around here, the car needs to be checked properly with a leakdown test. It fills the cylinder with compressed air, and then shows where the air is leaking from. If you get higher then 10% leakdown on any one particular cylinder, you will know where your problem is and then you just verify where the air is leaking to determine which part is bad. It's possible you could need valve stem seals and not rings, heres a video of how it works, the OTC leakdown testers on amazon are pretty cheap. Or if you have a harbor freight.
x2
A regular compression tester are also easier to come by and can give you a general idea as well.
x2
A regular compression tester are also easier to come by and can give you a general idea as well.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
From: Sartell, MN
Before you start dumping **** in your engine like everyone seems to recommend around here, the car needs to be checked properly with a leakdown test. It fills the cylinder with compressed air, and then shows where the air is leaking from. If you get higher then 10% leakdown on any one particular cylinder, you will know where your problem is and then you just verify where the air is leaking to determine which part is bad. It's possible you could need valve stem seals and not rings, heres a video of how it works, the OTC leakdown testers on amazon are pretty cheap. Or if you have a harbor freight.
how to do a leak down test - YouTube
how to do a leak down test - YouTube
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 157
Likes: 1
I would say your pistons and rings are gummed up with carbon pretty good.
Mine were when i got the car at 76K.
I'll post some pics of them when i geta chance.
Idk about seafoam man, never used it I'll always use hard parts most of the time. Pistons and rings would be a job for me lol but do able.
On the other hand it'll probably be just fine lol. Run it?
Mine were when i got the car at 76K.
I'll post some pics of them when i geta chance.
Idk about seafoam man, never used it I'll always use hard parts most of the time. Pistons and rings would be a job for me lol but do able.
On the other hand it'll probably be just fine lol. Run it?
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TECH Enthusiast
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Lets understand that the use of seafoam is being recommended for light duty cleaning. When you are specifically targeting COKEING of the RINGS it requires different measures and there s a TSB from GM for that and it still requires proper diagnosis post cleaning.
For just tuning with a packaged tune and turning off the DoD/ AFM... you still have to datalog and dial it in.
There are many areas that oil consumption can come from as other posters have mentioned and there are TSB`s for the PCV system/ rear valve cover problem and the DoD for example. there is also the possibility of vacuum leaks... like at the DoD sensor on the brake booster or the inner PCV hose failed (remove it and roll it in your fingers to see if the inner liner is ll cracked)
What it comes down to is a proper diagnosis first.
For just tuning with a packaged tune and turning off the DoD/ AFM... you still have to datalog and dial it in.
There are many areas that oil consumption can come from as other posters have mentioned and there are TSB`s for the PCV system/ rear valve cover problem and the DoD for example. there is also the possibility of vacuum leaks... like at the DoD sensor on the brake booster or the inner PCV hose failed (remove it and roll it in your fingers to see if the inner liner is ll cracked)
What it comes down to is a proper diagnosis first.
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Enthusiast
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Just to shed some light on this method.. Back in the day of carbs and throttle body injection this method of feeding seaoam through the vacuum system until It stalled, then allowing It to soak for 15 mins. the re-staring. It worked well as there was fuel from the top sort of speak to wash the system after it soaked. We do not have that ability anymore with individual injectors. The best practice today is to add the seafoam to your fuel tank and crankcase and allow it to function a vapor clean in your inner induction system. As you accelerate it comes thru the PCV system mixed in the oil vapor and as you decelerate it comes from the fuel swirl in the intake manifold. As you can see it is a slower method for the area between the throttle body and the injector.
Just to shed some light on this method.. Back in the day of carbs and throttle body injection this method of feeding seaoam through the vacuum system until It stalled, then allowing It to soak for 15 mins. the re-staring. It worked well as there was fuel from the top sort of speak to wash the system after it soaked. We do not have that ability anymore with individual injectors. The best practice today is to add the seafoam to your fuel tank and crankcase and allow it to function a vapor clean in your inner induction system. As you accelerate it comes thru the PCV system mixed in the oil vapor and as you decelerate it comes from the fuel swirl in the intake manifold. As you can see it is a slower method for the area between the throttle body and the injector.
TECH Enthusiast
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