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Well pimpala ain't pimpin

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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 08:50 PM
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Default Well pimpala ain't pimpin

Got on the dyno Monday made a couple of pulls first pull was the only good one and then boom goes the motor. On the first pull made 400/400 with very low timing due to maf and map change second pull dropped to high 3s 3rd pull fried a couple of pistons and some bearings the motor is totally locked up. On the 3rd pull she was blowing out the front valve cover so it's gonna down for a while. I also need some input on pistons and rods to put in definitely lower the compression ratio
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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 08 pimpala ss
Got on the dyno Monday made a couple of pulls first pull was the only good one and then boom goes the motor. On the first pull made 400/400 with very low timing due to maf and map change second pull dropped to high 3s 3rd pull fried a couple of pistons and some bearings the motor is totally locked up. On the 3rd pull she was blowing out the front valve cover so it's gonna down for a while. I also need some input on pistons and rods to put in definitely lower the compression ratio
Sorry to hear that man.

Lowering static compression is just going to open your your tuning window a little. I personally wouldn't bother dropping down, but to each there own. I have made some big numbers with stock flat top motors (l33/ lc9) so I would suspect there was an existing underlying mechanical problem. The power levels you are referring to aren't beyond the mechanical limits of that motor.

Regardless...none of that helps your current situation. If you need some Wiseco pistons or any help, let me know and I will do what I can.
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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 09:15 PM
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Was this on a stock block to begin with?
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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 06:06 AM
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Yeah with a 105k on it
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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 08:15 AM
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Bummer. Damn hard to tell from a post but all that work my ****** head would blow off, you seem pretty cool about this. Do you think it leaned out ? What is your plan going forward, total rebuild?
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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 11:05 AM
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what were your mods? can you give a brief overview of your ride.
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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 11:08 AM
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This is in my opinion way to close to your cam install as the only variable. Perhaps some debris or something was introduced into the oiling system at the time or something of the nature did not allow full oil flow causing the bearing failure and subsequently locking your motor
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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 11:09 AM
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Or the base tune just that he did dumped way to much fuel and washed out the cylinders all plausible scenarios
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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 91parkave
This is in my opinion way to close to your cam install as the only variable. Perhaps some debris or something was introduced into the oiling system at the time or something of the nature did not allow full oil flow causing the bearing failure and subsequently locking your motor
He also had a post of oil pressure, which seemed to be caused by a faulty oil filter but I did not see the outcome of the resolution on that.
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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by rottonj
He also had a post of oil pressure, which seemed to be caused by a faulty oil filter but I did not see the outcome of the resolution on that.
It seemed that the oil pressure problem went away after changing the pigtail on the sender but was still getting code for sender low performance but no more low oil pressure light . My guess is that it was real and all my issues of tuning with blips of kr the past. @Z06 my mod list is in my sig. I plan to build a motor and make the fastest ls4 et
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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 91parkave
This is in my opinion way to close to your cam install as the only variable. Perhaps some debris or something was introduced into the oiling system at the time or something of the nature did not allow full oil flow causing the bearing failure and subsequently locking your motor
I put almost 5k on the car with cam
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 07:46 AM
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I'm just throwing this out there but I have no experience with rebuilding LS motors or turbo applications. On the conventional small blocks I have done in the past shot peening the rods and ARP bolts sufficed with resizing, not sure with your horsepower expectations that will be possible. The mains should be studded, and if this motor was easier to remove I would also suggest studding the heads with ARP but that would mean they could probably not be removed in car if needed. The crank is probably cast, and with our configuration without going custom or stroker I would think it would just have to be worked. Forged pistons are a must. Opinions vary on boring but it is my understanding the sleeves can be bored or replaced , do your homework on that subject. This assembly should be balanced. Plenty of head options out there, and I hear our castings are very good to begin with but probably better aftermarket alternatives out there as your budget allows. If you are assembling this motor yourself a clean environment is a absolute must, this cannot be stressed enough. I would also look into improved oiling. Attention to detail goes along way.Another variable is the tuning, again I am illiterate on that subject but after dumping this kind of money into an engine I would not trust that to anyone who is not at the top of their game. This is just my opinion, you have a nice car with a ton of work into it already. It could be better to try to find a lower mileage motor from a junkyard and start with that. Good luck.
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by rottonj
I'm just throwing this out there but I have no experience with rebuilding LS motors or turbo applications. On the conventional small blocks I have done in the past shot peening the rods and ARP bolts sufficed with resizing, not sure with your horsepower expectations that will be possible. The mains should be studded, and if this motor was easier to remove I would also suggest studding the heads with ARP but that would mean they could probably not be removed in car if needed. The crank is probably cast, and with our configuration without going custom or stroker I would think it would just have to be worked. Forged pistons are a must. Opinions vary on boring but it is my understanding the sleeves can be bored or replaced , do your homework on that subject. This assembly should be balanced. Plenty of head options out there, and I hear our castings are very good to begin with but probably better aftermarket alternatives out there as your budget allows. If you are assembling this motor yourself a clean environment is a absolute must, this cannot be stressed enough. I would also look into improved oiling. Attention to detail goes along way.Another variable is the tuning, again I am illiterate on that subject but after dumping this kind of money into an engine I would not trust that to anyone who is not at the top of their game. This is just my opinion, you have a nice car with a ton of work into it already. It could be better to try to find a lower mileage motor from a junkyard and start with that. Good luck.
Hey I'm working on getting my hands on a block long or short I have someone who will do the machine work and balancing install pistons and such thanks for the info though
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 12:12 PM
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damn pimpala i would be crushed but u sitll ready to battle lol,way to keep your head level my man
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 03:55 PM
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do you have datalogs of the dyno runs? what was it being tuned on, were knock sensors enabled? VE tuning or maf tuning.
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by spawne32
do you have datalogs of the dyno runs? what was it being tuned on, were knock sensors enabled? VE tuning or maf tuning.
I'm trying to get a hold of them the tuner was using Efi live as far as I know knock sensors were on can you get me that price on a set of pistons and rods pm me thanks
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 09:03 PM
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I think Bfurches is the one you wanted to pm you on the pistons and rods if I read this correctly?
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 11:36 PM
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Yea I had wisecos in my bike motor stroked and they held up nice a good product
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