Are they 1.8 or 1.9? Did you also do springs / rods?

 

1.8's and rods, the stock springs on the ls4 are good up to 6300 rpm from information I found from GM

 

crane part number 144759-16

 

so it easier to install rockers arms for more lift
than doing a cam swap?
if it was my choice i would have went with the slp 1.85 rockers
which are installed just like the oe rockers.

 

I saw one guy that had to shave some of the head to fit the 1.85 rockers, any where I read they suggest no higher then 1.8. And for a cam it's up to you if you want to drop the motor to put one in, if you do a cam also you need to change the springs. $700.00 for 15-20 hp is not a bad purchase for rockers. and alot less risk you take on screwing anything up!

 

sorry, it was the 1.8's. Got used to that ratio in my head and was still thinking I went up 0.1. (fixing other post now) and the quick lift rocker geometry requires shorter pushrods, so obviously rods were changed out. Left the stock springs for now, but I believe I am getting valve float at the top of first gear when it shifts. Starts to lay down slightly up there and it should pull a few hundred more RPM than that before the cam gives up.

 

You're preaching to the choir here. I went ahead and relashed them all using the normal SBC method and went 1.5 turns on the preload. I am sure you can find detailed instructions on how to make sure you are on the base circle of the cam (by watching the rockers) when you find zero lash (easy) and set preload (almost as easy, just have to count to 1.5 turns), have to turn the crank a couple times, but it is much easier than the directions that come with them.

Just put about 200 miles on it today, have not checked the DIC against reality yet, but the DIC is showing a 2 MPG increase over similar speed driving while stock. I thought I might see some improvement with the quick lifts as they really pump up the mid-range, but we shall see over the next few tankfulls and then after I check the fuel slope.

 

If I have a one making sounds off and on what do you suggest I do?

 

Probably needs to be readjusted. You can start over with just that one rocker or you can try tightening it an 1/8th turn at a time until it stops. Best way would be to start completely over with that particular rocker. Sadly, with the coils on top, there is no way to run the engine with the valve cover off (makes it real easy to adjust when running, just tighten it until the clicking just stops and then holding the nut steady, crank down on the lock-nut), not an option for us, but that is a very good way to get it exactly right on other applications (not as messy as you might think with the oil spray.)

 

Mine has started to tick like a lifter is not pumping up right away after a 10+ hour cold start. I know it is lashed properly, and it continues until after the first time it swaps to 4 from 8 and then it is silent thereafter, no matter what mode DOD is in. Have no idea why it does it, just on a cold start and until DOD cycles once. Hot starts, no tick at all.

 

I just adjusted my rockers AGAIN yestarday. They were fine all day, I took it to the track then this morning when I started the car tick tick tick tick. All 4 in front are smooth as butter, but I still have 3 in the back that need to be adjusted. I have opened up my valve covers 6 times already now!

 

So how did you do?
Tate

 

those rockers sound like a PITA... any reason why you didn't go with the other ones some of the other guys used - the non/self-adjusters?? Seems like it was a whole lot easier for them - just put 'em in and go...

p.s. not raggin'/bustin' on ya - I don't know much about doing them or what the differences are, but am getting interested in this, so that's why I'm asking...

 

They are hydraulic rockers so if you could tune them like the old small blocks while they are running it's alot easier. It's harder because you have to put the coils on to start the car.

 

I did the cyclinder sequence finding lash on the exhaust, then the intake and then adjust 1/4 turn etc what ever is needed for them to sit snug.

 

If Crane made a non-adjustable rocker that had the Quick Lift geometry, I would have gone with that, but they don't and I really like the engineering behind them. (lifts the valve off the head @ 1.90 ratio, then by 0.300 lift settles back to the 1.8 ratio and holds that until the cam is setting the valve back down and goes back to 1.90. In theory it should greatly increase torque in the mid and upper RPM range, in reality, it launches so hard that it feels like getting rear-ended by a Suburban), I have no idea why mine ticks at me either, today it was fine on a cold start, then it started to tick after the car warmed up and for another 10 minutes after that, then silent.

It really is simple to pop in adjustables on the SBC engines (aside, it seems from the DOD 5.3), hell it is easier/faster adjusting them then putting back the stock ones that come from the factory on the older blocks. If the coils were off the covers, it would be way easy to get them all squared away. Since both of us have the same 'trouble' (so far 100% of everyone who has used them) I am leaning towards some goofy DOD aspect of the LS4 lifters causing it.

This week I will be heading back home from central Illinois and will be able to see if the ticking is setting off the knock sensor(s). If not, then I am not going to worry about it. If it does, then I will go ahead, get new springs (since I am going to pull the rockers anyway) and relash them to 1.75 turns.

 

Well I did another round today. And it comes down to just getting them settled in there home. I had a few that were making the tick and I corrected it again. The true test is after 7-8 hours of it cooling right down. In my opinion sure the Crane are wayyyy better but if you don't want the hassle then you use Yellow Terra or HS.

 

Good deal, maybe one more round of adjustments for me will do the trick.

 

Well I settled the last few angry rockers in there home yestarday drove it around for about 200 km woke up this morning and turned on the car no tick tick tick FINALLY I HOPE! Now I jsut need to figure out what the best spark plug gap is for the car stock is .040 and I have seen guys do .050, .055, .059 & .044 I have it at .055 right now?

 

Good luck with the relash! Give it a few days until you are sure, mine was silent for the first 325 km too. How many turns did you go?