Rear Brakes Going?
Need to do brakes...Opinions on Pads? (edited) OK...found a new horrible sound coming from the rear last week. Sounded like something metal rattling around in a drum (brake setup) when braking. Sound went away when executing an "emergency" or otherwise hasty stop...but is still there when lightly braking. This wasn't your usual brake pad "squealer" sound indicating that we need new pads.
However, now it's turning into more of a squeal, plus the rattling, and still coming from the rear. Is it possible, or reasonable to expect, the rear brakes to need to be done before the front?
I've always thought i had issues with the rears. For the first few thou. miles the rear brakes smelled like they were being "overused" but the dealer (of course) said they weren't binding. Eventually they stopped smelling, but even now, if i do a lot of hard driving/braking, the rears will smell pretty bad.
I looked at the brakes this AM through the wheels and couldn't see much...and i do plan to take the wheels off and thoroughly check them out before going to the dealer about this issue...but should the front brakes EVER outlast the rear?
(i do believe the original Customer Satisfaction Recall for the brakes in 12/05 addressed the brake balance, iirc...maybe they fubared that one, too).
Anyone else have to do brakes yet?
However, now it's turning into more of a squeal, plus the rattling, and still coming from the rear. Is it possible, or reasonable to expect, the rear brakes to need to be done before the front?
I've always thought i had issues with the rears. For the first few thou. miles the rear brakes smelled like they were being "overused" but the dealer (of course) said they weren't binding. Eventually they stopped smelling, but even now, if i do a lot of hard driving/braking, the rears will smell pretty bad.
I looked at the brakes this AM through the wheels and couldn't see much...and i do plan to take the wheels off and thoroughly check them out before going to the dealer about this issue...but should the front brakes EVER outlast the rear?
(i do believe the original Customer Satisfaction Recall for the brakes in 12/05 addressed the brake balance, iirc...maybe they fubared that one, too).
Anyone else have to do brakes yet?
Last edited by BuffaloSS; Aug 30, 2007 at 11:45 AM.
All you "hands on," knowledgeable fellas and no one knows if this is possible? Of course, my "hands on" self did not find the time to take a couple wheels off...but i'm wondering if the rear brakes should ever need to be done before the fronts?
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,190
Likes: 0
All the W's I've had went on a 2 front to 1 rear brake jobs, but these cars do have a history of a sticking rear caliper.
But as far as this car, zero brake problems. As a matter of fact, the car has surprised me that I don't need to replace the fronts after 35K.
Sounds to me you're dragging the pads, a caliper issue. Metal grinding sound may be from the rivets screwing up the rotor, which could be from the pad falling apart from heat.
But as far as this car, zero brake problems. As a matter of fact, the car has surprised me that I don't need to replace the fronts after 35K.
Sounds to me you're dragging the pads, a caliper issue. Metal grinding sound may be from the rivets screwing up the rotor, which could be from the pad falling apart from heat.
OK...so if the brakes are going...which is better, Ceramics or Semi-Metallics, and for what reason? I know one is quieter and one produces less dust (more important to me) Any particular brand? I can get a set of Raybestos Ceramics for the rear for $23 + S&H from Rock Auto.
I really hope to have a second car by next week, so i'll get this to my Uncle on Tuesday. I'm guessing i can get a free brake job through him...and maybe some rotors (mine have been turned twice already). We'll see...will report back.
Oh yeah, to add to the idea that the rears have been dragging and/or binding for quite a while...the rear calipers are all rusted(-looking), as if they've been overheated, while the fronts seem to still have the silverish paint on them from the factory.
I really hope to have a second car by next week, so i'll get this to my Uncle on Tuesday. I'm guessing i can get a free brake job through him...and maybe some rotors (mine have been turned twice already). We'll see...will report back.
Oh yeah, to add to the idea that the rears have been dragging and/or binding for quite a while...the rear calipers are all rusted(-looking), as if they've been overheated, while the fronts seem to still have the silverish paint on them from the factory.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 308
Likes: 0
Hey Buff, overheating wouldn't have anything to do with your 140 MPH quick stops would it? I'm sort of joking but I know most effort goes to the front, but I am not sure if that’s always the case. I had premature wear and warped rotors on my wife’s FWD, and my 300m until I went to aftermarket drilled/slotted rotors. Stock stuff sucks.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,190
Likes: 0
You def want to go with the ceramics for the clean wheel look. I used NAPA brand on the old GS, don't know who made them. Raybestos is a good brand, looks like you found them for a great price.
If your uncle is doing the work, have him check the calipers, sounds like it's all messed up back there, bias included.
Your car is still under warranty? Can your uncle do a warranty repair? Dealer guys can probably help out here.
If your uncle is doing the work, have him check the calipers, sounds like it's all messed up back there, bias included.
Your car is still under warranty? Can your uncle do a warranty repair? Dealer guys can probably help out here.
Bill, i gave up those 140mph emergency maneuvers a while ago, LOL. No need nor want to do that anymore. I agree, OEM rotor blanks suck...but i don't feel like dropping a ton on untested, unproven aftermarket stuff.
Kaz, i'm still under warranty...and he (my unc) works at a Chevy dealer so i'm good there. Only problem is that he admitted that they let vehicles purchased elsewhere (from other dealers) sit FOREVER before looking at them, and i don't know if he'll catch any flak for doing me favors (or looking into my laundry list of other potentially big warranty issues) knowing that the car didn't originate from their stock. I know my dealer doesn't want to handle my warranty issues the same way a paying customer gets handled, but i'm banking on my uncle doing a very thorough job with what he can (including finding that horrible clunk and my possible steering rack issue)
Kaz, i'm still under warranty...and he (my unc) works at a Chevy dealer so i'm good there. Only problem is that he admitted that they let vehicles purchased elsewhere (from other dealers) sit FOREVER before looking at them, and i don't know if he'll catch any flak for doing me favors (or looking into my laundry list of other potentially big warranty issues) knowing that the car didn't originate from their stock. I know my dealer doesn't want to handle my warranty issues the same way a paying customer gets handled, but i'm banking on my uncle doing a very thorough job with what he can (including finding that horrible clunk and my possible steering rack issue)
Trending Topics
You probably have some warped rotors in the rear, and every time the pad goes over it it lumps, causing a bad noise. And heat only intensifies this noise, causing the rotor to expand and contract horizontally.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Five Reasons the Camaro Was the Most Pivotal Player in the Pony Car Wars 2.0
Brett Foote
10 Reasons the LS7 Is GM's Most Extreme Naturally Aspirated V8 Engine Ever
Verdad Gallardo OK...so after about a week of this sound, it has definitely turned into a brake squeal...and not from the rear...from the front. I guess the Doppler Effect was causing it to bounce off the surroundings and sound as if it were behind me. I stuck my head out the window while braking last night and it's the front for sure.
Anyway, i need pads now...rotors seem fine...not at all grooved. Smooth as a baby's bottom.
Now, I'm likely to do all four corners, but cannot find what i want/need for the fronts.
I can get ProStop ceramics from PepBoys for the front & rear ($59 & $50, respectively). I can get EBC Redstuff for the rears from Summit for $60 + shipping, but no listings (at all) for any brand of front brakes for this car there . AZ only carries Crapalast for the front, and CrapaGold for the rear
Any thoughts? I'd like to find them locally so that i can do them between today and this weekend...but unless i settle for the ProStop Ceramics (ceramics are what we want, right? OEM are ceramics...right???), it looks like i'm SOL.
Carquest has their usual "colored" pads indicating quality, but i haven't called yet. Hawk shows part numbers, and i'll look for dealers online. Lastly, there is GM...good'ole General...but i don't want to pay through the nose.
Anyway...chime in with your thoughts. Whattaya think?
Anyway, i need pads now...rotors seem fine...not at all grooved. Smooth as a baby's bottom.
Now, I'm likely to do all four corners, but cannot find what i want/need for the fronts.
I can get ProStop ceramics from PepBoys for the front & rear ($59 & $50, respectively). I can get EBC Redstuff for the rears from Summit for $60 + shipping, but no listings (at all) for any brand of front brakes for this car there . AZ only carries Crapalast for the front, and CrapaGold for the rear
Any thoughts? I'd like to find them locally so that i can do them between today and this weekend...but unless i settle for the ProStop Ceramics (ceramics are what we want, right? OEM are ceramics...right???), it looks like i'm SOL.
Carquest has their usual "colored" pads indicating quality, but i haven't called yet. Hawk shows part numbers, and i'll look for dealers online. Lastly, there is GM...good'ole General...but i don't want to pay through the nose.
Anyway...chime in with your thoughts. Whattaya think?
I can get Hawk HPS Ferro-Carbon (Semi-metallic?) pads for front & rear for $130 at TireRack...would those be decent? It claims better stopping power but more noise and/or dust. Don't know which i care more about...stopping or cleaning...don't care about the noise too much.
Thanks Mark...i'll give them a call to see if they're even available yet. I'm leaning towards the Hawk HPS Ferro-Carbon pads from TireRack for $140. I'd be paying $120 for the ProStop ceramic pads at PepBoys, but can do them today or tomorrow.
Looked up the NAPA price online...$80 for front Ceramix pads and $73 for the rears. Googled "Ceramix" and everyone seemed to love them...but i'd bet i'd get the same with the Hawks, too(edit..yeah...everyone loves the hawks too).
Now i'm more confused...lol
Looked up the NAPA price online...$80 for front Ceramix pads and $73 for the rears. Googled "Ceramix" and everyone seemed to love them...but i'd bet i'd get the same with the Hawks, too(edit..yeah...everyone loves the hawks too).
Now i'm more confused...lol
Well, time crunched me hard this time so i "settled" for the ProStop ceramics...just couldn't wait for the Hawk or other pads to be shipped. Cost me $120 for the set, front & rear.
Did all four corners in less than an hour...well, with a bee sting in the middle. The rears weren't in bad shape...probably had another 6000mi on them, but the driver front had a frozen lower caliper pin causing excessive inner pad wear and that's where the squealer tab was...hence the sound. To be honest, if it weren't for the frozen caliper slide pin...they would have lasted another 6000 as well IMO.
Here's the culprit after i yanked it out a bit with a pliers:
and here was the result of that issue:
Did all four corners in less than an hour...well, with a bee sting in the middle. The rears weren't in bad shape...probably had another 6000mi on them, but the driver front had a frozen lower caliper pin causing excessive inner pad wear and that's where the squealer tab was...hence the sound. To be honest, if it weren't for the frozen caliper slide pin...they would have lasted another 6000 as well IMO.
Here's the culprit after i yanked it out a bit with a pliers:
and here was the result of that issue:
