LT1 Backfire after round of Mods. HELP
yeah agreed always run your engine to adjust a hydraulic setup. and +2 on the wiring route...i have messed myself up on a tune up before by having two of the wires mismatched. and also about the msd coil..usually you want to run a good set of low resistance wires when running a better coil otherwise it will be too much voltage trying to make its way threw some high resistance wires and jump off the coil...just my 2 pennies
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We adjusted them with the car off, the started the car with no covers on to make sure they were all good. We heard no ticking, and they are all doing well.
It seems like heat plays a role in when it backfires. I can have it idle for 3-4 minutes and no issues, but then it will start to backfire, more and more as it runs (gets warmer).
It seems like heat plays a role in when it backfires. I can have it idle for 3-4 minutes and no issues, but then it will start to backfire, more and more as it runs (gets warmer).
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We adjusted them with the car off, the started the car with no covers on to make sure they were all good. We heard no ticking, and they are all doing well.
It seems like heat plays a role in when it backfires. I can have it idle for 3-4 minutes and no issues, but then it will start to backfire, more and more as it runs (gets warmer).
It seems like heat plays a role in when it backfires. I can have it idle for 3-4 minutes and no issues, but then it will start to backfire, more and more as it runs (gets warmer).
yea...back each of them off enough so you can hear them tick and then go clockwise 1/4 turn, once your done with all of them I bet it won't backfire anymore. And yes it will make a mess, but theres not much of a way around that.
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yea, hydraulic roller, right?
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#adjust_valves
this method is pretty universal whether it be hydraulic or hydraulic roller
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#adjust_valves
this method is pretty universal whether it be hydraulic or hydraulic roller
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yea, hydraulic roller, right?
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#adjust_valves
this method is pretty universal whether it be hydraulic or hydraulic roller
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#adjust_valves
this method is pretty universal whether it be hydraulic or hydraulic roller
yea even with roller rockers this is the method that I use, the only way this would change is if the rockers were not stud mounted and were instead shaft mounted, in which case i believe they are just torqued to a specific rating
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I was under the impression that you use a feeler gauge when adjusting rollers? Then again I didn't look into it much since I traded off my RRs.
Here's a better link for him
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#poly_locks
Here's a better link for him
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#poly_locks
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That is the method that I used, I did not get around to checking rockers yesterday. We used Shoebox's IOEC method with the car off, then started it with the covers off. It took a little while but oil did flow through all rockers, and they did not tick at all. Are you all thinking that they are to tight and I should try it again backing each one off? I guess that is a sure fire way to know they are adjusted properly.
Im wondering if its not electrical since it seems to start backfiring as the car warms up. I noticed last night that the headlights are on when the key is on, and the switch is off. I also have the right blicker light on (not flashing) the dash on when the key is on and blinker off. In addition the blinker light is on (not flashing) when I turn the lights on without the key on. Bad ground perhaps? I did have the battery relocated during the mods so that could be it.
Im gonna connect a jumper cable to the battery and the other end to the block just to double check.
Im wondering if its not electrical since it seems to start backfiring as the car warms up. I noticed last night that the headlights are on when the key is on, and the switch is off. I also have the right blicker light on (not flashing) the dash on when the key is on and blinker off. In addition the blinker light is on (not flashing) when I turn the lights on without the key on. Bad ground perhaps? I did have the battery relocated during the mods so that could be it.
Im gonna connect a jumper cable to the battery and the other end to the block just to double check.
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That is the method that I used, I did not get around to checking rockers yesterday. We used Shoebox's IOEC method with the car off, then started it with the covers off. It took a little while but oil did flow through all rockers, and they did not tick at all. Are you all thinking that they are to tight and I should try it again backing each one off? I guess that is a sure fire way to know they are adjusted properly.
Sadly, you can't exactly pin-point which one it is and you'll have to do them all :S
