Temp Gauge Stops
Temp Gauge Stops I replaced my thermostat last night after suspecting it wasn't functioning properly. Well since then, the temperature gauge isn't working quite right.. I have a 93 Z28 so I'm pretty sure my gauge is different than all the other years, so let me explain.
The gauge starts at 100 and then there are 3 bold yellow lines. The first one I would imagine to be around 135 or 140, the second around 180ish, and the third is right before red line. Well the needle stops right above the first line. I used a stock 180 degree thermostat, so it shouldn't be that low. It won't go any higher, but it will go lower.
If I turn the car off for an hour or so in the day, the needle is stopped right there above the first line since it was the last place it was when I turned the car off, and when I turn it back on, it stays there because it is either that hot or hotter. It's making me nervous driving around like this.
I replaced the temp gauge sensor on the side of the block last spring, so my first notion would be that is the problem, but due to it happening right after I change the thermostat, I'm wondering if there may be something else going on here..?
Thanks for any help or advice.
The gauge starts at 100 and then there are 3 bold yellow lines. The first one I would imagine to be around 135 or 140, the second around 180ish, and the third is right before red line. Well the needle stops right above the first line. I used a stock 180 degree thermostat, so it shouldn't be that low. It won't go any higher, but it will go lower.
If I turn the car off for an hour or so in the day, the needle is stopped right there above the first line since it was the last place it was when I turned the car off, and when I turn it back on, it stays there because it is either that hot or hotter. It's making me nervous driving around like this.
I replaced the temp gauge sensor on the side of the block last spring, so my first notion would be that is the problem, but due to it happening right after I change the thermostat, I'm wondering if there may be something else going on here..?
Thanks for any help or advice.
Update:
I changed the sensor/switch, whichever you want to call it, on the side of the block and the same result. However, my SES light is on as I have not tuned my PCM since deleting my EGR and AIR with my LT install and that causes my fans to constantly run. Well I decided to pull the relays for the fans. I thought it wasn't helping, but then the temp slowly began to rise and kept going until I plugged the relays back in, where the temp dropped all the way back to right above that first line.
It seems like that is way too cold, but maybe it's not? I'll be able to get a picture tomorrow if that will help, but it doesn't seem people are gauging much interest in this anyway...
I changed the sensor/switch, whichever you want to call it, on the side of the block and the same result. However, my SES light is on as I have not tuned my PCM since deleting my EGR and AIR with my LT install and that causes my fans to constantly run. Well I decided to pull the relays for the fans. I thought it wasn't helping, but then the temp slowly began to rise and kept going until I plugged the relays back in, where the temp dropped all the way back to right above that first line.
It seems like that is way too cold, but maybe it's not? I'll be able to get a picture tomorrow if that will help, but it doesn't seem people are gauging much interest in this anyway...
If you have a laptop, try to get a hold of a usb to OBDI. You can get then from Moates.net I think it is. Once you get that, there are a few free programs out there that you can use to see sensor output as well as others that will read DTC codes. Hopefully this helps you out some.
