Hey guy's..
Got a '95 Z-28, convertable with an m-6 tranny.
Car already has a cai and cb.
Will a set of pacesetters and 4.10 gears get me some 13.1 to 13.3 times.
Those are the first mods I am looking to do, well, maybe an underdrive pulley also.
Looking for input, so any advice is welcome.

 

The convertible being a bit heavier than a coupe or t-top car will set you back a little, but I'd say with those bolt ons, low 13's are possible if you can launch the car decently without bogging or spinning. Tires will be a large deciding factor as well, a good set of drag radials will help more than you would think.

 

Thanks.
Thats good to hear, anyone else?

 

its possible but you would need a set of drag radials... doubt you could do it with street tires... you can take 2+ tenths off with a set of drag radials... Mickeys perferably... i wish i would of ran my car when it was just exhaust gears and Mickys!

 

With some drag radials I think you mite have a chance.

 

its going to be close, but this is the time of year that it would be possible. i ran my times in the middle of summer, but i would imagine my car is a good bit lighter.

 

its all in the tires and suspension. if you could launch at 4000-4500 RPM and stick it perfectly (on slicks or something) you would be golden, and maybe in the high 12's.

that kind of launching though will kill your 10 bolt relatively quickly though.

[imho] i wouldnt waste time or money on underdrive pullies, there is defniitely a better bang for your buck out there. do some suspension work. that will make a huge difference compared to the pullies.

 

I vote for drag radials also. Definitely run it when it's cooler out like this time of year. It's possible, but you're gonna have to fight for it.

As for the underdrive pullies, I disagree with most people who say that they aren't worth the money. Most peole seem to refer to the WS6.com dyno chart and say that the .7 rwhp gain isn't worth it, but the car also gained 4.4 rwhp on average and over 5 rwtq on average. The pulley kits are only like $80. That's not really a bad deal (abut 1 hp for $20). A set of LS1 trickflow heads go for like $3000 with everything you need to run them, so even with a 50 rwhp gain it cost you $60 per hp. I would suggest doing the alternator overdive pulley also though to keep everything charged.

 

It will happen with a good 60ft.

 

I went 13.32 yesterday with a catback and DRs leaving at 4-4500. So yes it could be done with the mods you have plus DRs

 

My car went 13.6 to 13.8 last weekend.

Pacesetter Quick Trip Longtubes
Pacesetter 3" ORY
Flowmaster 3" Catback
CSR Electric Water Pump
Lingenfelter CAI
Panhard Bar
Descreened MAF
Richmond 4.10s
Launching from 3000-3500 on street tires getting 2.00-2.20 60` times.

On street tires with an M6 its hard to get low 13s, on radials if you launch too high with a sticky clutch you'll **** out the guts of your rearend. I'm a pretty decent driver, no pro by any long shot but I can get the car to move off the line with minimal problem. It's just a battle having street tires with a standard.

Now I did trap 103.19mph best. That's enough power to get into the 12s but having a manual sets us guys back quite a bit. I would be happy with mid 13s.

 

Mine is a M6 with just a catback. My best MPH was 103.27 best et was 13.32

 

Where are you at?? DA is the key to good ETs & MPH, if your in the deep south, i will say yes, if your at or around 1500-2000 ft. alt., i'll say no, more like 13.4-13.5s at best, a good set of DRs are not always the cure, the only thing you''l get is consistant 60ft. times by hooking every pass, but you WILL bogg, then there goes your chance of sub 2.0 60fts., now i'm only speaking a bolt-on LT1, if you beef up the engine & add HP, then you'll get better 60ft. times, like in the 1.8s & better depending on your HP level, suspention mods do help, but IMO not much on just a bolt-on LT1, i'm just speaking in general, every car acts different, but most of these cars will act the same with the same mods/track/weight, who knows, you may have one of the flook cars that run very strong & do things you wouldn't expect, it happens. The only thing that will hurt running DRs is busting the 10 bolt, & you will leaving at 4-5K & hooking hard, MT & Hoosier DRs hook the best, nittos/BFGs are marginal, if you can get into the 1.8s on your 60fts & don't miss a beat all the way through shifting at 6-6100, you should see low 13s, but i don't see you getting 1.8 60fts. hooking & bogging, my BEST 60ft. was on a slipping clutch (1.97), but most of the time its in the 2.00 range EVERY pass, i'm at 1500 ft. alt., DA is generally between 23-2800 ft. on decent days in the summer, i know you may not want to hear this, but i wouldn't waist time & money putting 4.11s in that 10 bolt, it'll surely bust in no time with good DRs & hard launches.

 

What was your 60ft. on that run? & what was the DA??

 

what was your 60 foot time? if its high that is the key right there.

 

Pretty sure he posted in another thread he had a 1.9 60ft

 

not sure on the DA but it was a 1.97 60ft.

 

You should easily have low 13s with those mods. I had just full exhaust and intake and hit low 13s with a 2.0 60'. With 4.10s should be easy high 12s if you don't spin too much

 

the 60 foot would be pretty easy to trim. generally for every tenth off of your 60 foot you get about 1.5-2 tenths off of your quarter mile.

do some suspension work and you will be there

 

It pulls through the bog at 4k but feels as if the stock clutch slips enough to not be so hard on the rear end.
Maybe diconnecting the front sway bar and leaving 4500-5k I could pull 1.8s or so and with cooler weather at night run a 12.99
With a 4.10 Im sure I could run 12s
4.10+ good clutch=boom on the 10bolt!