Close to stock LT1 dyno

M6 vs Auto. M6 gets 15-20hp over an A4 car right off the bat. With that said, I'll go back to my previous post, which you clearly also didn't read (which was quoted TO YOU).
"EWP is still good for 5-10hp since ours are cam driven. So thats 255~hp stock + 25-30hp for the full exhaust, 5-10hp for the EWP and 8-10hp for CAI. Take the lowest numbers and that oddly enough is 293. Take the highest and it's 305, which is 5 less than the other guy who said his buddy's car with the same mods made."
So, with that said, he's 1hp behind my 'rule of thumb' numbers for mods, and not far behind what someone else made with similar mods. Which can easily be factored to different dyno, margin of error, vehicle mileage and if the other car had a tune or not.
And while there are lots of stock ones around, the majority of folks who purchased one, bought it not only for what it is but because of the need for speed. And anyone who has that need, is going to mod it

M6 vs Auto. M6 gets 15-20hp over an A4 car right off the bat. With that said, I'll go back to my previous post, which you clearly also didn't read (which was quoted TO YOU).
"EWP is still good for 5-10hp since ours are cam driven. So thats 255~hp stock + 25-30hp for the full exhaust, 5-10hp for the EWP and 8-10hp for CAI. Take the lowest numbers and that oddly enough is 293. Take the highest and it's 305, which is 5 less than the other guy who said his buddy's car with the same mods made."
So, with that said, he's 1hp behind my 'rule of thumb' numbers for mods, and not far behind what someone else made with similar mods. Which can easily be factored to different dyno, margin of error, vehicle mileage and if the other car had a tune or not.
I guess the title should say... Almost full bolt-on LTjuan minus every bolt on besides exhaust and intake...LOL
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, Back in the day, everyone that had a muscle car would install headers/dual exhaust, better air cleaner, & possibly a carb/intake, they were still considered very mild, if not damn near stock, heck the car still didn't run a whole lot stronger unless it had a cam/gears/compression/heads, that woke them up, so i still think even with bolt-ons, are cars are still fairly stock (but not BONE stock), for what they are, they run VERY well for there weight. I've heard many times ours were under rated, but more and more and more of seeing what people make with a stock car (quite literally stock in this meaning), I'm will to say the Corvette was OVER rated. Then again their exhaust is much better than ours, and could easily have a more aggressive tune than the F-Body did. Their cams were a bit better as well, but the differences between F and Y's cams weren't much.
That being said, one of my A4 cars made 289 rwhp after getting a full exhaust (shorty headers, hollowed cat, and cutout), CAI, electric water pump, airfoil, 1LE elbow, and under drive pulleys.
i have the same mods plus 1.6s,true duals and a tune and i hit 315/336.. i am sure someone has to doubt a tune,true duals and 1.6s are worth 22whp
With that said... Purple with yours punched in w/o a tune & CAI factored in it's showing 282/330. Figure 15-20 for a tune, which negates the drive train loss, leaving you basically right where you said due to the CAI adding 8-10.
How is it NOT close to stock?
It has three minor mods (exhaust, CAI, EWP)
Stock: heads, cam, rockers, intake, throttle body (no air foil), pullies, FPR, PCM/Tune, clutch, flywheel, trans, driveshaft, Rear end and so on.
I am not making the claim to making the most power at all. I am stating that I am happy with what it put down.
I would like to see the graphs on the cars that put down 310. It is very easy for a savy dyno operator/tuner to skew the numbers up or down with adjustments in the correction factor. That is why I make sure that it is set at 1.0 SAE correction factor, not uncorrected or STD corrected (which will show more power).
EDIT: I see everyone has already told you its not close to stock.





