im getting a little bit of knock retard, i have been slowly backing the timing down in those cells where the knock is occuring, mostly at 3700-4000 and 90-95 map. I also noticed though that the left side seems to be running a little rich. I am wondering if someone would mind taking a look at my tuner cat, .bin file, and my datamaster logs to see if you have any insight as to what could be off, or anything that should be changed. I haven't had the car all that long, so the tune is mostly how i got it, and i'm still learning all this computer stuff.

Thanks


RAR of 5 races
http://www.datafilehost.com/download-e0814851.html

RAR of more races from a following week

http://www.datafilehost.com/download-64597f28.html

My .bin file
http://www.datafilehost.com/download-fac7d6ea.html

 

Good luck I couldn't find a single person to look at my tune. So I gave up, and basically started googling my own 'research' :\

 

thanks, lol, you wanna take a look at 'em? lol

 

I would if I knew how to properly read a datalog. Plus, I wouldn't be much help with tuning, due to my biggest change being upping the Volumetric Efficiency tables, which MAF cars don't have. Well, I suppose they do, otherwise they wouldn't have the !MAF mod heh Sadly, I'm really of no help heh Sorry

 

Looking at your logs and you current tune i say that knock or spark retard your getting is false. I compared your Tune to a stock tune i have and where your getting the knock retard you already have 8 degrees less timing programed in then mine. So when the spark retard kicks in that's another 16-18 degrees of timing being pulled from where it should be. If you don't hear any pinging or detonation i would work on tuning that out. Lt1 knock sensors system is a pain in the *** even with the BS lt4 km there very hard to get working right on a modded motor. Let me know if you need any more input or help. Im not a pro but i have a pretty firm understanding on whats going on. And yes maf cars do have VE tables.

 

okay great thanks, when you said it i think i just realized that i probbaly sent you my tune with 28* in the upper range, this was not how it was when it was pulling KR. the notes in the datamaster logs show where the timing was in each of those runs

 

Ya it was 28 degrees total programed timing. What i would do is go in to the consistence tables then scroll all the way down to Burst knock enable%Diff airflow thresh I would put in 100% for a value. What that value is, is when there is a sudden change in airflow the computer will set knock retard. This value is fine for a stock car but when you start modifying things cams heads air flow is entering the engine is going to change a lot faster and thats why it needs to be changed. I would start with that first.

 

huh, okay, yea, the timing was up at about 34 if i rember correctly, i kept backing it down 1-2* at a time in the ranges were the KR was occuring, does that sound like a good method? Also will setting that vale to 100% completly eliminate the KR ability? I will try it but also want to make sure i'm fixing the problem not the symptom, also dont want to just take out the retard feature if something is wrong. On another note, any thoughs why the left side might be running a bit rich? Thanks for your help so far

 

There are two different kinds of knock. Burst knock and normal knock. What I trying to tell you to do is to de sensitize burst knock. If you have a real problem desensitizing burst knock is not make a difference as normal knock will pick it up and still retard the timing. Burst knock is exactly what i explained above. When there is a sudden jump of air incoming into the engine like going wide open throttle burst knock will enable to retard the timing as a stock safe guard. On a stock unmodified engine these values are never crossed and no burst knock is enabled. What I am telling you is that because you modified the engine with Heads cam etc you are no exceeding the stock computer values flowing way more air quicker then it did stock thus triggering false burst knock. Because you did these mods you need to tell the computer hey its ok that its moving this much air now you don't have to retard the timing. Your method of bringing the timing down is fine exactly what i would do.You can also read the plugs if you feel the need. But you kept pulling timing and pulling timing and the problem didn't go away or even get better correct? That means that it is false knock or burst knock getting in your way. I feel that its is burst knock because from your logs it happens at the lower rpm ranges or right when tps% goes to 100% (WIDE OPEN THROTTLE) and sudden kpa changes and not when you at high rpm. That looks like a burst knock problem to me. So i recommend following my instructions for modifying that value above and re log and report back then go from there. As far as you LTFT counts being different from side to side. usually 4-5 is ok 10 is a problem. Looking at you log your Ve tables could use some work. Check for vacuum leaks lazy o2 sensors o2 sensor extension resistance exhaust leaks header leaks got to do some investigating for that one.

 

i had to modify all the burst knock tables in order to get rid of my knock. it worked.

 

great, hopefully i will get back out to the track this weekend and will report back, or else i will just go find a side road, thanks