F3RR3T

sell me the prints. i have the tools to make me one lol

LS1 SPEED

iTrader: (22)

maybe for next years X-Mas gift

F3RR3T

who knows i may pick one up later if i get this upcoming job. have to do a full install tutorial and review

alconk

iTrader: (1)

That looks like a work of art!! How hard is it to remove the ABS and what's involved?

F3RR3T

i would like to know this also

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

get a line lock and buy 2 new brake lines to bend up. 1 new one from the master to the line lock, out of the line lock to a T fitting that runs to your 2 front lines. The other new line from the master to a coupler that ties in to the rear brakes. Pretty simple if ure mechanically inclined. I have some pretty detailed pics if u guys want um.

F3RR3T

i got a line lock already but why is it needed when eliminating the ABS

F3RR3T

i would also like to look at the pics

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

just makes it eaiser and just good to do while your doing it. It be like changing your oil and not putting a new filter on. Heres a pic, you can see how it route from the master, IN the line lock and OUT to the T fitting for the 2 front brake lines. And the rear is just a cupler fitting. A lot of people say you need a porp. valve but i dont have one and used my brakes HARD city driving on slicks n skinnies and never had one problem with tires locking up. Glad i didnt waste the time and money to put on in.

F3RR3T

basically the line lock does the same thing in this situation still (lock up the fronts)

chevy42083

Yes. And it isn't needed... it's just a good time to put one on if you ever planned on it. If you don't want a line-lock, then it's a waste of time and money. I never plan on running slicks, I'll never need a line-lock. I can foot brake it just fine.

I used....
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

except I bought the summit branded one (Jegs had one also). Although, it looks like SSBC offers them in various fitting sizes. It has a single in, dual out for the front so you do not need a T-fitting.

I personally want a prop valve no matter what, cause I'll be running different brakes and want the adjustability and to be able to tune it for road racing/AutoX.


EDIT: The prop valve I linked is a dual inlet, dual outlet.... not sure if that's a typo. Mine was dual inlet (front/rear), and three outlets (Front Right, Front left, Rear). Looks like they may be expanding their line... they only offered a few when I was looking.

ks my ss

you only need a single in and single out prop valve. just put it in the rear brake line to turn the pressure up or down.

LS1 SPEED

iTrader: (22)

yes info and pics above can get the job done

I used an SJM kit which comes with lines and you need to cut and flare a couple.

chevy42083

This is true.
I just didn't want to buy and plumb a prop valve and a T-fitting, I thought it would look better all in one unit. Really just personal preference... I mention the valve that I have because most people have never heard of it.

F3RR3T

good info guys

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

ks my ss, that looks awesome. I like how clean everything is run with the wiring. I'm going to have to try and hide mine when I get my engine in my 93.

94-lt1

iTrader: (1)

these motor pics look great