Track times! NEED Help!
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,169
Likes: 1
From: Born/Raised North East, MD Lived in VA, NC, MI Back in Yorktown, Va
yea well im happy that hardly beating my car a 13.1 was what came out. i swear though my car isnt that badass or anything just the track was not prepped at all and my tires werent that great i mean street tires. anything past half throttle was spin lol. i got pissed one time and dumped the clutch and flat shifted and everything pulled a 3.5 60' and ran a 15.8 at like 75 or 80 but my speedo was saying 150 lol in 5th gear (yes i hit 5th in the 1/4 lol just spinning) that was a ***** and giggles run lol
Yeah i race at national trails, In ohio..... This all started After i put the clutch in.... Awhile back my check engine light was on for a O2 sensor this was during the summer, and periodically The check engine light comes on, but then goes away for about a couple months, Im using a nitto drag radial.
did you run the setup before the clutch install? The stock knock sensor could be hurting you but even with a timing problem you should still be in the 13s if no traction problems. If it all started with the clutch install then....
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Verdad Gallardo The car dyno'd 330 rwhp and 350 torque to the wheels. My volts are low, or seem low anyway, the volt gauge is a little bit below the center hash, oil pressure is a good 15psi at idle, and around 35-40psi 4-6K rpms water temp is a good 170
you shouldnt get bummed, if the motor put down good #s on the dyno, then its gotta be the clutch and the clutch will kill your time if slipping or not fully engaging, did you smell it when at the track? Just saw your #s,,,, difinetly not 14.5
i see you also said this happened after you installed the clutch. don't know too much about manuals to be of any help with that. were you faster before the clutch? if so thats may be the culprit. a stock lt1 runs a little quicker than what you did so there is definitely a problem somewhere.
also get datamaster and the aldl cable and log the car with a laptop if you have one. download it you get 20 free logs. you may have a lot of knock. my car felt strong even with the knock. if traction was a problem i would think you would at least have a higher mph. yours is pretty low. another thing is that cc306 is a pretty big cam. how are your springs?
also get datamaster and the aldl cable and log the car with a laptop if you have one. download it you get 20 free logs. you may have a lot of knock. my car felt strong even with the knock. if traction was a problem i would think you would at least have a higher mph. yours is pretty low. another thing is that cc306 is a pretty big cam. how are your springs?
As for the springs, They are the behive springs, They are about 4 years old along with the cam, I bought the car with this setup, and i wasnt able to run the car prier to the new setup, the only thing i did was the clutch. The heads have been milled i think its .0010 i dont own a lap top so i cant really log any info.
okay so you don't know what it ran before it had the clutch so we can't assume that the clutch is the reason its running so slow. how long ago was it dyno tuned?
knock will kill your times and the car will still feel strong. mine felt mighty healthy even 8 degrees of knock. its like a silent killer.
have you checked your springs 4 years with a cc306 on beehives can put some real wear on the springs.
shifting at higher rpms will get you better times. that cam has a high rpm range (i believe 6800) but you have to make sure your valve train can handle it before spinning it that high. shift it at like 6000 to play it real safe and see what times you come out with.
knock will kill your times and the car will still feel strong. mine felt mighty healthy even 8 degrees of knock. its like a silent killer.
have you checked your springs 4 years with a cc306 on beehives can put some real wear on the springs.
shifting at higher rpms will get you better times. that cam has a high rpm range (i believe 6800) but you have to make sure your valve train can handle it before spinning it that high. shift it at like 6000 to play it real safe and see what times you come out with.
i bought an LT4 KM and it didn't do anything but it's worth a shot anyway. if he's getting knock its most likely due to his burst knock tables which will need to be modified. i had knock for like 2 years. finally got rid of it when i started to get into tuning. it was due to the burst knock tables. i didn't have to desensitize the sensor at all just had to modify the burst knock tables.
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 91
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From: New Albany, Ohio