Need some input
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Need some input Hey guys and early happy new year,
I have a 1997 Z28 with ~101,000 on the clock. I've owned it for two years and so far I've installed:
- K&N FIPK
- Pacesetter LTs and ORY
- Magnaflo catback
- Manual cutout
- UMI LCAs
- 2800 Fuddle Converter
- 3.73 Gears
I have around $400 to spend now, and was curious what you guys think would provide the biggest bang for the buck at this point? The car is my daily driver but I enjoy getting on it a lot, but not so much from a dead stop anymore since I don't want to shatter the 10-bolt. I was thinking a HSW nitrous kit would be the best, but I don't think I could piece together a reliable kit for $400...but I could be wrong.
Any input is greatly appreciated!
Oh, and it's maintenance is up to date except for a front strut. The opti is < 3,000 miles and there is no backfiring or loss of performance, so I don't need any of the $400 to go towards that.
I have a 1997 Z28 with ~101,000 on the clock. I've owned it for two years and so far I've installed:
- K&N FIPK
- Pacesetter LTs and ORY
- Magnaflo catback
- Manual cutout
- UMI LCAs
- 2800 Fuddle Converter
- 3.73 Gears
I have around $400 to spend now, and was curious what you guys think would provide the biggest bang for the buck at this point? The car is my daily driver but I enjoy getting on it a lot, but not so much from a dead stop anymore since I don't want to shatter the 10-bolt. I was thinking a HSW nitrous kit would be the best, but I don't think I could piece together a reliable kit for $400...but I could be wrong.
Any input is greatly appreciated!
Oh, and it's maintenance is up to date except for a front strut. The opti is < 3,000 miles and there is no backfiring or loss of performance, so I don't need any of the $400 to go towards that.
Top off the basics maybe..160 stat, throttle body bypass kit, Trickflow elbow (that eliminates the donkey dick) Electric Water Pump, air foil for your Throttle Body, 1.6 rockers..
To run Nitrous the correct/safe way you would be closer to the 700-1000 range. A cam swap is always a option...but wouldn't really fit the 400 dollar budget...unless you just did the cam which I wouldn't recommend
To run Nitrous the correct/safe way you would be closer to the 700-1000 range. A cam swap is always a option...but wouldn't really fit the 400 dollar budget...unless you just did the cam which I wouldn't recommend
Last edited by Elliott's94Z; Dec 31, 2008 at 10:55 AM.
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Oh, I forgot to add that I do have a 160 degree thermostat, have done the throttle body bypass, and an airfoil.
Does the elbow really make a difference? And are the rockers something I could do with limited mechanical experience?
And a cam swap might happen closer to summer, after I learn more about wrenching on my car, and as a graduation present to myself
Thanks so far, Elliott's94Z!
Does the elbow really make a difference? And are the rockers something I could do with limited mechanical experience?
And a cam swap might happen closer to summer, after I learn more about wrenching on my car, and as a graduation present to myself
Thanks so far, Elliott's94Z!
Oh, I forgot to add that I do have a 160 degree thermostat, have done the throttle body bypass, and an airfoil.
Does the elbow really make a difference? And are the rockers something I could do with limited mechanical experience?
And a cam swap might happen closer to summer, after I learn more about wrenching on my car, and as a graduation present to myself
Thanks so far, Elliott's94Z!
Does the elbow really make a difference? And are the rockers something I could do with limited mechanical experience?
And a cam swap might happen closer to summer, after I learn more about wrenching on my car, and as a graduation present to myself
Thanks so far, Elliott's94Z!
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Your at the point mod wise where unless you run gas 400 bucks isnt going to do jack (accelleration wise anyway). You could run a cam if you install it yourself but then you would have to get it tuned...keep saving for a LE package and a tune...you'll be much happier.
I just bought:
HSW kit
purge
window switch
heater
FPSS
for $400 shipped and most of it is brand new never installed and the stuff that was installed was never used... bottle never filled.
I just watch the classifieds like a hawk.
You can get a used Nitrous system for 400.00, thats what i would do, i got an 800+ system for 400.00 shipped just 2 months ago off a board member, it came with just about everything, this will be the best bang for the $$$ if you want to go fast, heres what i ended up getting.
NX big shot system, 300 shot noids.
NX bottle heater
NX purge
Blowdown tube
FPSS
Pressure controller for heater.
All i need is a window switch, bought the LT1 mounting bracket & 100 shot jets from NitrousOutlet, built my own ashtray control panal.
NX big shot system, 300 shot noids.
NX bottle heater
NX purge
Blowdown tube
FPSS
Pressure controller for heater.
All i need is a window switch, bought the LT1 mounting bracket & 100 shot jets from NitrousOutlet, built my own ashtray control panal.
Get a K-member. If you want a nitrous kit $400 isn't going to be enough for a safe kit unless it's used, and at that point you'd be peicing together someone elses materials that aren't guaranteed.
You could also go with a tune or a shift kit for the tranny as it may not last too terribly much longer.
You could also go with a tune or a shift kit for the tranny as it may not last too terribly much longer.
Is it tuned? Get a good tune first if not.
I know you said you don't want to kill your ten bolt, but some drag radials and maybe LCA relocation brackets would complement your stall and gears nicely. Thing would launch like a mother. Send the ten bolt out in style!
I know you said you don't want to kill your ten bolt, but some drag radials and maybe LCA relocation brackets would complement your stall and gears nicely. Thing would launch like a mother. Send the ten bolt out in style!
And to note that DR's on an auto still doesn't spell death to a 10-bolt. It's an auto and less damaging to the glass rear.
Mine on the other hand is going to blow b/c it's already whiney and I'm adding M/T's.
Mine on the other hand is going to blow b/c it's already whiney and I'm adding M/T's.
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Wow, lots of great suggestions in here.
It is tuned, I forgot to mention that, sorry. The K-member seems like an interesting idea, but would you suggest maybe a lighter hood or wheels to help reduce weight instead? I'd really LOVE to save up for a t56 swap, but I don't have the knowledge of how to swap transmissions, nor the tools to do it.
So I guess my question at this point is, would weight savings be my greatest all around bang for the buck? And if so, where should I look to save weight on the front end of the car (as in which piece will be the biggest gain for the least money)?
Thank you everyone, this has been a great chance to learn for me
It is tuned, I forgot to mention that, sorry. The K-member seems like an interesting idea, but would you suggest maybe a lighter hood or wheels to help reduce weight instead? I'd really LOVE to save up for a t56 swap, but I don't have the knowledge of how to swap transmissions, nor the tools to do it.
So I guess my question at this point is, would weight savings be my greatest all around bang for the buck? And if so, where should I look to save weight on the front end of the car (as in which piece will be the biggest gain for the least money)?
Thank you everyone, this has been a great chance to learn for me
In my opinion weight reduction isn't really worth it unless you really plan to go all out, gut the car and get all the lightweight parts you can find. If you just bought a hood or a k-member you won't feel any difference. If you did both of those, take out the A/C and/or heater, pull the back seats and maybe the passenger seat, pull the radio, take out the carpet etc etc you might feel some improvement. I have also heard of lightweight K members breaking, personally I wouldn't get one unless it was a dedicated track car.
Any interest in making the car handle better? You can get some good shocks for around $400, Bilstein, Tokico and KYB AGX shocks all cost right around $400.
Any interest in making the car handle better? You can get some good shocks for around $400, Bilstein, Tokico and KYB AGX shocks all cost right around $400.