Timing spoof for nitrous
#1
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Just doing some thinking...
The IAT sensor can pull timing based off of the temp it reads, right?
So if someone can show me the table for timing pulled based off of the IAT reading I can go to radio shack and get a resistor and stick it in there to read what I want and I can have my timing pulled for less than a couple bucks.
Is there anything I'm missing? It seems like buying something to pull timing when half of them do this method, then why would I waste the money?
Now, if that's all correct, can someone show me the table values for this?
The IAT sensor can pull timing based off of the temp it reads, right?
So if someone can show me the table for timing pulled based off of the IAT reading I can go to radio shack and get a resistor and stick it in there to read what I want and I can have my timing pulled for less than a couple bucks.
Is there anything I'm missing? It seems like buying something to pull timing when half of them do this method, then why would I waste the money?
Now, if that's all correct, can someone show me the table values for this?
#3
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Really an aftermarket box with their hotter spark, spark based rev limiter, window switch, and programmable retard is THE right way to go. I mean if nothing else the stock rev limiter activating just once while on the bottle will completely destroy the motor in spectacular fashion.
That said folks have used the traction control tables to pull timing, triggering it only when they are using the nitrous. Hell if you are resourceful and creative enough you can use the stock computer to control a pretty big dry shot, I know someone who does though I think everyone is going to scream impossible on that one.
Like I said though an aftermarket box really is the right way to go about it if for no other reason for the spark based rev limiter, the stock limiter shuts off the injectors which would be instantly fatal. You can say you will never overrev but last time I was at the track someone had spilled something somewhere past 1000ft and the rpms spiked the rear swung, I was fortunate enough that lifting off the throttle straightened the car out. Point being even if you take care of your car 100% and never have a failure there are still things that can cause an overrev.
That said folks have used the traction control tables to pull timing, triggering it only when they are using the nitrous. Hell if you are resourceful and creative enough you can use the stock computer to control a pretty big dry shot, I know someone who does though I think everyone is going to scream impossible on that one.
Like I said though an aftermarket box really is the right way to go about it if for no other reason for the spark based rev limiter, the stock limiter shuts off the injectors which would be instantly fatal. You can say you will never overrev but last time I was at the track someone had spilled something somewhere past 1000ft and the rpms spiked the rear swung, I was fortunate enough that lifting off the throttle straightened the car out. Point being even if you take care of your car 100% and never have a failure there are still things that can cause an overrev.
#4
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I used to do it in the programing. The IAT is fine where it is at. I was spraying a dry shot over it at the time. It would go to -40 and in that table I programed the timing I wanted.
For wet kit you could wire some thing like you have in your post on a relay to come on with the juice.
As 96 says though a good after market box would be best. I now run a MSD 6 Digital. My only complaint is it only allows for 9.9 degree's of retard...
For wet kit you could wire some thing like you have in your post on a relay to come on with the juice.
As 96 says though a good after market box would be best. I now run a MSD 6 Digital. My only complaint is it only allows for 9.9 degree's of retard...
#5
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Really an aftermarket box with their hotter spark, spark based rev limiter, window switch, and programmable retard is THE right way to go. I mean if nothing else the stock rev limiter activating just once while on the bottle will completely destroy the motor in spectacular fashion.
That said folks have used the traction control tables to pull timing, triggering it only when they are using the nitrous. Hell if you are resourceful and creative enough you can use the stock computer to control a pretty big dry shot, I know someone who does though I think everyone is going to scream impossible on that one.
Like I said though an aftermarket box really is the right way to go about it if for no other reason for the spark based rev limiter, the stock limiter shuts off the injectors which would be instantly fatal. You can say you will never overrev but last time I was at the track someone had spilled something somewhere past 1000ft and the rpms spiked the rear swung, I was fortunate enough that lifting off the throttle straightened the car out. Point being even if you take care of your car 100% and never have a failure there are still things that can cause an overrev.
That said folks have used the traction control tables to pull timing, triggering it only when they are using the nitrous. Hell if you are resourceful and creative enough you can use the stock computer to control a pretty big dry shot, I know someone who does though I think everyone is going to scream impossible on that one.
Like I said though an aftermarket box really is the right way to go about it if for no other reason for the spark based rev limiter, the stock limiter shuts off the injectors which would be instantly fatal. You can say you will never overrev but last time I was at the track someone had spilled something somewhere past 1000ft and the rpms spiked the rear swung, I was fortunate enough that lifting off the throttle straightened the car out. Point being even if you take care of your car 100% and never have a failure there are still things that can cause an overrev.
Buy a few resistors, watch the timing as you go WOT, throw in the resistors to make the PCM think it's getting really hot air and watch it add less timing. IF this works then along with a window switch you should be good to go?
#7
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Cary, NC
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
why not just wire a relay and use the resistor on one side, so you can flip a switch and run the resistor and when you want full timing flip the switch off. 85 & 86 coil, 30 is +, 87a have no resistor, 87 put an inline resistor. im just sayin..