What else should I install while my car is getting a cam installed?
sounds like a nice build and others have covered things well
$400 for a cam swap and $150 for a pump is a steal
opti?
opti harness?
plug wires?
I would also make sure to check pushrod length instead of just putting the stock 7.200 length in.
also be sure to check proper install height on the springs to make sure you will have no valve float issues
good luck
$400 for a cam swap and $150 for a pump is a steal
opti?
opti harness?
plug wires?
I would also make sure to check pushrod length instead of just putting the stock 7.200 length in.
also be sure to check proper install height on the springs to make sure you will have no valve float issues
good luck
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,161
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From: Rapid City, SD
Thanks for everyone's input so far!
Like I said I don't think the opti is any older than 50k. I've not ever considered a harness?? And plugwires are fresh like 100 miles ago.
Wouldn't I only need a different length pushrod if only the block or heads had any work done to them?
Like I said I don't think the opti is any older than 50k. I've not ever considered a harness?? And plugwires are fresh like 100 miles ago.
Wouldn't I only need a different length pushrod if only the block or heads had any work done to them?
Thanks for everyone's input so far!
Like I said I don't think the opti is any older than 50k. I've not ever considered a harness?? And plugwires are fresh like 100 miles ago.
Wouldn't I only need a different length pushrod if only the block or heads had any work done to them?
Like I said I don't think the opti is any older than 50k. I've not ever considered a harness?? And plugwires are fresh like 100 miles ago.
Wouldn't I only need a different length pushrod if only the block or heads had any work done to them?
Thanks for everyone's input so far!
Like I said I don't think the opti is any older than 50k. I've not ever considered a harness?? And plugwires are fresh like 100 miles ago.
Wouldn't I only need a different length pushrod if only the block or heads had any work done to them?
Like I said I don't think the opti is any older than 50k. I've not ever considered a harness?? And plugwires are fresh like 100 miles ago.
Wouldn't I only need a different length pushrod if only the block or heads had any work done to them?
My LS1 ain't stock either so we'll see. 
The LT4 intake is internally the same as the later LT1 intakes, not an upgrade, but a shinning example of all the bad info guys share.
Comp guideplates are wrong, I pitched them in favor of GMPP and those wore so I ended up with Isky adjustables, do yourself a favor and just get the isky's the first time.
I have NEVER bought a valve cover gasket for an LT1, always been fine reusing them.
Use a stock timing chain, they work perfectly and will let you keep the mechanical WP. Despite all the hate for them they are VERY reliable, again this is an item that comes down to there is too much bad info out there.
A high volume oilpump will just go into bypass sooner and cavitate easier, not to mention some of the aftermarket stuff is proving to be less reliable than stock due to weak castings, I would look at a fresh spring in the stock pump, $3 upgrade and a $8 Melling driveshaft for it.
If you are going to pull the oilpan look a the "conversion gasket kit".
Comp guideplates are wrong, I pitched them in favor of GMPP and those wore so I ended up with Isky adjustables, do yourself a favor and just get the isky's the first time.
I have NEVER bought a valve cover gasket for an LT1, always been fine reusing them.
Use a stock timing chain, they work perfectly and will let you keep the mechanical WP. Despite all the hate for them they are VERY reliable, again this is an item that comes down to there is too much bad info out there.
A high volume oilpump will just go into bypass sooner and cavitate easier, not to mention some of the aftermarket stuff is proving to be less reliable than stock due to weak castings, I would look at a fresh spring in the stock pump, $3 upgrade and a $8 Melling driveshaft for it.
If you are going to pull the oilpan look a the "conversion gasket kit".
The LT4 intake is internally the same as the later LT1 intakes, not an upgrade, but a shinning example of all the bad info guys share.
Comp guideplates are wrong, I pitched them in favor of GMPP and those wore so I ended up with Isky adjustables, do yourself a favor and just get the isky's the first time.
I have NEVER bought a valve cover gasket for an LT1, always been fine reusing them.
Use a stock timing chain, they work perfectly and will let you keep the mechanical WP. Despite all the hate for them they are VERY reliable, again this is an item that comes down to there is too much bad info out there.
A high volume oilpump will just go into bypass sooner and cavitate easier, not to mention some of the aftermarket stuff is proving to be less reliable than stock due to weak castings, I would look at a fresh spring in the stock pump, $3 upgrade and a $8 Melling driveshaft for it.
If you are going to pull the oilpan look a the "conversion gasket kit".
Comp guideplates are wrong, I pitched them in favor of GMPP and those wore so I ended up with Isky adjustables, do yourself a favor and just get the isky's the first time.
I have NEVER bought a valve cover gasket for an LT1, always been fine reusing them.
Use a stock timing chain, they work perfectly and will let you keep the mechanical WP. Despite all the hate for them they are VERY reliable, again this is an item that comes down to there is too much bad info out there.
A high volume oilpump will just go into bypass sooner and cavitate easier, not to mention some of the aftermarket stuff is proving to be less reliable than stock due to weak castings, I would look at a fresh spring in the stock pump, $3 upgrade and a $8 Melling driveshaft for it.
If you are going to pull the oilpan look a the "conversion gasket kit".
The LT4 intake has a .100 raised port, LT1 head does not.
I had Comp guideplates on my car when it had the 355 in it, worked fine.
Valvecover gaskets, depend on whats on there when he pulls them off, if they are rubber re use them.
On the water pump, 3-4 RWHP is a nice gain.
Stock motor use a Melling Select pump, very nice for the money. Call Melling for the right pump.
Putting on a new stock timing chain is a must IMO plus they are dirt cheap..25-35 bucks. As far as the oil pump goes, several guys have had great luck running a High Volume pump with no issues. Either keep the one you've got or replace it with a HV. I've got one of each new in the box never used you can have for a great price if you end up swapping it out.
The LT4 intake has a .100 raised port, LT1 head does not.
I had Comp guideplates on my car when it had the 355 in it, worked fine.
Valvecover gaskets, depend on whats on there when he pulls them off, if they are rubber re use them.
On the water pump, 3-4 RWHP is a nice gain.
Stock motor use a Melling Select pump, very nice for the money. Call Melling for the right pump.
I had Comp guideplates on my car when it had the 355 in it, worked fine.
Valvecover gaskets, depend on whats on there when he pulls them off, if they are rubber re use them.
On the water pump, 3-4 RWHP is a nice gain.
Stock motor use a Melling Select pump, very nice for the money. Call Melling for the right pump.
Look here.
The ports in the LT4 intake are the same as the LT1, the heads have a TALLER port not a raised port. See LT1/ LT4 intake comparison pic courtesy of GIZMO
The OP wants to keep the mechanical pump so a stock chain is a good idea for that.
The Melling select pumps are nice, but not cheap and not necessary or beneficial.
Comp guideplates will have the rockers sitting like this /\ I prefer them to be parallel. The LT1 valve spacing is slightly different than many other smallblock heads hence the misalignment when using generic SBC guideplates.
IMO the "importance" of a 160 stat is overstated, I have one that I bought many years ago, I use it but don't believe it important.
Valve cover gaskets could be ripped I suppose but I have pulled and reused them at 200K+ miles and had no troubles, competence goes a long ways in keeping costs down.
Putting on a new stock timing chain is a must IMO plus they are dirt cheap..25-35 bucks. As far as the oil pump goes, several guys have had great luck running a High Volume pump with no issues. Either keep the one you've got or replace it with a HV. I've got one of each new in the box never used you can have for a great price if you end up swapping it out.
IMO, it's best to just spend the money on a complete set and forget about it. Sprockets aren't much more expensive.
You can just replace the chain, but it is HIGHLY recommended that you replace the sprockets too. The chain and sprockets wear together, so why would you want to put a new chain over old sprockets?
IMO, it's best to just spend the money on a complete set and forget about it. Sprockets aren't much more expensive.
IMO, it's best to just spend the money on a complete set and forget about it. Sprockets aren't much more expensive.
Ditto. I have used both and the GMPP guide-plates maintain the stock PR angle.
